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10 E-MTB Tips For Beginners | Bike Setup And Riding

10 E-MTB Tips For Beginners | Bike Setup And Riding

– Today’s video we’re looking
at beginner style videos teaching the basics of
e-bike and set up techniques and tips before you hit the trails. It doesn’t matter what bike you’ve got, full suspension bike or a hardtail, all these setup techniques and trail tips are gonna be exactly the same. Take a few of these tips on board, just going to make things
a lot easier for you before you hit the trails. (calm electronic music) Actually the bare
minimum you actually need is just a helmet and your e-bike. You can obviously build on
that protection as you go. Obviously tailor it to
the amount your ride and the sort of riding you’re doing. If you’re crashing lots
or you’re not crashing. build on that kit as you go, doesn’t need to be super expensive. (calm electronic music) Okay, so let’s take a look at
getting this e-bike moving. You’re gonna need to install the battery. Battery’s obviously
gonna be fully charged, you’ve got it fully topped
up ready to hit the trails. Obviously from manufacturer
and different batteries it all varies but the idea is the same, you’re locating a set of contacts into a point on the
battery then securing it by even means of a lock or a bolt. Okay, so we’re just gonna fit
that back to the e-bike now. Dimension, it differs all the way across, this is a Shimano system. Locating that contact
point with the lock in. Slide it in, I hear a nice loud click I know that that batteries
securely in the frame, give it a quick wiggle,
give it a pull around, make sure that thing
is gonna go flying out when you hit that first bit of trail. (calm electronic music) Let’s take a look at the
cockpit area of the bike. It’s called the cockpit
because it’s basically houses all those controls, brakes,
gear levers, power modes, things like that are gonna influence where you’re riding out in the trail. You really want this area to be set up, you want it nice and comfortable, you don’t want anything
out of reach, funny angles. Because if it’s all out
of reach and weird places you’re not going to feel comfortable when attacking those trails. Let’s talk about stem height. You can add and decrease
the height of that stem by adding or decreasing the
amount of spaces under the stem. If you’ve got too high a bar, ’cause some of those feel like
you’re behind the handlebars, you’ve got nothing to pull out against when you’re above it sprinting. If the bar is high you’re
gonna be behind the bars So you want it kind of
like a medium kinda height so you’ve got something to pull on and feel a bit more in control. A higher handlebar I can
feel a bit more comfortable but when you get an aggressive ride in, to mention you’re gonna be
behind those handlebars, you wanna be on top of them. So maybe that’s something you can adjust Another part of the
stem is the face plate. Basically this is an area
you can undo these four bolts and let that bar roll. So basically you affect the sweep, that handlebar sweep is
a way that a bar feels, if you roll it forward
you’re gonna find the sweep. The handlebars is gonna go sort of up. If you roll it back towards you it relaxes your wrist as well. So mess around with
that, just get something that feels nice and comfortable when you’re in that right riding position. So let’s talk about
brake lever positioning. Out of the factory They
tend to ship the bikes with quite flat brake levers and tend to butt that lever
up against the grip tip. What you might find a
little bit more comfortable is to move that lever
slightly down the handlebar so it moves that brake lever down so you’re using one or
two fingers to brake you don’t need to be using more than that on the modern-day brakes,
they’re really powerful. Also just tilt that lever down so when you’re in your kind of like aggressive riding position or
a more neutral riding position you don’t have to reach
up for that brake lever. It just becomes a natural
progression from your arm, natural line, it’s just
there ready to grab as well. Also, if you’re finding that lever’s a little bit too far out
we have reached adjusters. These little adjusters basically, you can turn them and they
can wind that lever out or in. So if you’ve got little
fingers you might find that you find your levers
closer to the handlebar. If you’ve got big fingers, nice to have a bit of reach
and pull that level back. So mess around with that
reach adjustment too. Lots of different options on that, could be a little Allen key
or like little thumbs screw like it is here on this SRAM system. Another adjustment you might
want to make on your bike is moving that gear lever. You want that gear lever
to be nicely in reach when you’re either sitting or standing so get that in the medium. Sometimes if you’ve got it in a nice position when
you’ve sat down in that saddle you’re gonna find it quite flat. You need it to be in a position when you’re riding aggressively
you can shift gears too. So just mess around
with that lever position and get it somewhere nice and comfortable. So basically anything on that cockpit area just needs to be nicely in reach. You don’t wanna be making
any awkward movements or any weird adjustments to
get to your you control unit. Obviously you’ve got
your dropper seat post, just make sure that’s nicely in line so you’re not having to
release your grip to reach up and shift that dropper and don’t be afraid to
switch things around like inboard, so moving stuff towards the stem or towards the grip. You can swap things over as well so your shifter might be one side, you can swap it to your brake
leaver on the other side. Just mess around, get that
cockpit dialed in nice and comfy. It’s just gonna be really nice when you’re out there on the trails. So when it comes to
tightening those controls just make sure they’re tight enough not to move when you’re riding your bike but loose enough to move
in the case of a crash. Basically you want that lever
to move rather than snap. (calm electronic music) So the saddle is a really
important part of your e-bike. You’re gonna spend a lot
of time in that saddle so make sure that thing
is adjusted correctly too. A lot of adjustments we can do
on the two bolts underneath. Basically, you can tilt that
saddle forward and backwards. So the nose can drop or rise up. So if you’re feeling
any pain on that saddle you might wanna mess around
with the angle of that, you can adjust that via
the two bolts underneath. Also saddle height, we’re
gonna talk about that later on. But also sliding that saddle forward and backwards on the rails. So if you’re feeling yourself quite stretched out on your
bike when you’re seated You can slide that saddle
forward in the clamp making that reach shorter and vice-versa, if you’re feeling cramped up
you can slide it backwards. So just a mess around
also with your saddle, get that comfortable as well. As I said, you’re gonna
be spending a lot of time seated when you’re on your bike. (calm electronic music) So tire pressure is a big talking point when it comes to e-bikes. Obviously these things are
gonna need a lot of grip but you’re also gonna need that protection when you’re out there on the trails, stop you damaging those wheels ’cause these things are
quite heavy as we all know. So let’s take a look
adjusting that tire pressures and the sort of pressures
we should be running when it comes to the e-bikes. So when it comes to tire pressures there actually isn’t a correct
answer to how much pressure you should be running in your e-bike tires ’cause we all ride differently, we all ride different places, we all ride different styles of riding. A rough ballpark figure, I’d
aim between 25 to 30 psi, something like that, in both tires. Obviously you can plus or minus that if you find your wheel is
spinning or sliding out you can take a bit of pressure out or increase it if you’re
feeling that tires dinging against rocks and you’re giving you’re
tires a hard time. Basically, adjust that
tire pressure as you go to what you guys are riding. (calm electronic music) So good suspension is key when it comes to riding your
e-bike, it’s setup is vital. With a fork, basically you need that to be about 15 to 20 percent of the sag. So when you sat on that bike we’re not talking about
bouncing that fork up and down, just talking about sitting on it gently, holding those brakes,
sitting on it with preferably your riding gear on, your
helmet, your backpack, anything you ride with,
making sure that that fork is sitting down into the travel. That fork’s too stiff it’s gonna feel horrible
out on the trails. It’s too soft as well, it’s
gonna dive into it’s travel, gonna feel really uncontrollable. Another adjustment is rebound,
that basically controls how fast that fork responds to a hit. So how fast it rebounds
back to its natural state. If it’s too fast you’re
gonna feel like it’s a bounce springboard at the front, too soft it’s gonna pack down and feel like it’s diving down. So just mess around with
that rebound adjustments, just make something that
feels comfortable for you out on the trails. (calm electronic music) Let’s talk about seat height
when it comes to your e-bike. Obviously, I’ve got a nice
snazzy dropper post on here so it’s infinitely adjustable, I can move it down as I please. But it might feel that a
seat is really high for you, Sometimes you might feel that
you can’t get your feet down, you’re propped up high up in the sky. Don’t forget if you’re
feeling out of control you just move forward and
stand over that top tube and straight away but a
lot more clearance below and you can get those
feet down nice and firmly. So don’t feel like you got
to sit down all the time. You can stand off on that bike, get those feet down if you
feeling out of control. As a beginner you probably gonna find you’re gonna increase your
confidence by running that saddle a little bit lower, especially
on the more technical trails. Means you can get off that saddle and get your feet down if you need to. But as you grow in confidence, you’re probably gonna
wanna raise that saddle up, gives you a bit more pedaling efficiency. You just raise that saddle
up a little bit more. Basically, what you want to be aiming for is when that pedal is at
the bottom of the stroke you want a slight bend in your leg. I’m not talking about
having it nice and straight otherwise you’re gonna run
into knee and hip problems, you want a little bit of a kink. Just make sure you’re getting
that full leg extension on the bottom of the stroke, you don’t your legs all
bunched up underneath you ’cause you’re not gonna
be using those big muscles to power those cranks round. So that’s all the basic
tips and set up techniques for getting that e-bike dialed
in before you hit the trails. I think we’re ready to go,
let’s get into the trails. (calm electronic music) Okay, so let’s look at
turning that e-bike on. Obviously a lot of
different options on this, lots of different frame manufacturers. We’re here on the Shimano system so simply a push button on the battery activates that system. One thing in particular
some systems don’t like is you sitting on that bike ready to pedal or moving those cranks around. Some of them have crank
sensors, torque sensors, things like that in the motor which will actually cause an error code on that system before it’s even started if you’re spinning the cranks around, the computer and the operating system doesn’t know where it
is and what it’s doing so it will cause an error. If that error message does happen just step away from that bike, just make sure you’re
not touching the bikes, move those cranks a little
bit, restart that bike by turning it off then back on again and hopefully that
system will have cleared and you all ready and set to go. (calm electronic music) Okay, so let’s talk about
power modes on your e-bike. Basically different manufacturers, different motors have different options but basically there’s a
low power and mid power and a high power and usually
like a turbo mode as well so you get extra power from that battery. But when you’re hitting the trails I’d advise to start off
in that eco setting. Eco is gonna give you
the least amount of power from that motor but it’s
gonna give you the most range out of that battery so
you’re going to go further. Obviously the medium
power setting is that, it’s mid power setting and medium sort of range from your battery and the high power setting, so gonna give you that
most power from the motor and use it on the more
technical climbs and trails and when you really need that
assistance from the motor. But one thing is really
key is trying to start that ride off in a low-power mode ’cause if you start in the turbo mode, go back to those lower power settings, make the bike feel that
they’re not assisting you and doesn’t become much fun so
start low and build that up, those power settings, but
keep going back and forwards throughout those settings. They’re there for you to use,
you don’t just use one mode when you’re out on the trail. So the display on your handlebars houses all that information about your bike and your battery as well. So learning to read that is really good. One of the key parts is range on this so you keep an eye on
how much that battery is wearing out along you ride. Scroll through these different options, learn what each thing does, get that information, take it on board. So if it’s saying if you’ve only got 20 miles left on your battery you need to be finishing
that ride in 20 miles. Simple but really good
piece of information on your handlebars,
something for you to look at all the time. (calm electronic music) Okay, so let’s take a look
at getting on that e-bike. If you’ve got a droper seat post I suggest just dropping that
seat post out of the way. But also when you come to
be getting onto that bike just swinging that leg over
holding on to one of the brakes Swing your leg over, sit down, just try and avoid any contact with those pedals straight away. If you stand on one of those
pedals when you get on the bike the bike’s gonna lurch
and want to be going away, especially if you got
in a high power setting. (calm electronic music) Okay, so let’s talk about foot positioning when it comes to riding your e-bike. Just make sure your foot is nicely, sort of like your toes are
over the edge of the pedal, you don’t wanna be pedaling in
the mid section of your foot or on that ball of your
ankle or anything like that. Obviously not gonna give
you any movement at all, they’re gonna make you feel
real sketchy out on the trails if you don’t got good foot placement. Get nice and comfy make sure
that foot’s in the right place, match it on the other side. Just make sure it’s
pedaling nice and straight, you don’t let a heel
being in or out as well ’cause that’s gonna cause
problems with your knees. Just a nice comfortable foot positioning towards that front edge of the pedal. (calm electronic music) Let’s talk about holding onto those grips. I’ve seen some people resting their thumb on top of the grip. That’s a definite no-no when
it comes to mountain biking or probably riding any bikes in general. Make sure that thumb is
firmly behind that grip and you’ve got full grip
on those handlebars. You might feel more comfortable with your hands holding on to a full
grip out in the trail. You might find that you want
to cover a break as well so sticking a finger
out also helps as well. One thing you don’t want to be doing is trying to brake with two fingers, a lot of these new school disc brakes only really require one finger braking, especially if you’ve got that
lever in the right position. You should only really need
one finger at all times. Obviously the more fingers you take away you’re gonna be losing less grip on that on that grip as well so try and limit the amount of fingers you’re taking off of that handlebar. (calm electronic music) So when it comes to shifting
gear on your e-bike, all controlled by the
shifter on the handlebars. Got one lever to shift
up into an easier gear or one button to shift down
into a harder gear as well. You just get used to those on the road or on the car park before
you hit the trails, knowing what lever does what. Obviously the bigger the
cog you select on the back the easier the gear is gonna be and the smaller the harder
the gear is gonna be. So just learn that as well,
which way each shifter works. Obviously when you’re changing gear you really need to be
careful on the e-bike that you’re not shifting under load. So if you do want to
shift a gear on a climb just make sure you’re
backing off slightly on that pedal power as well as the motor power so that motor isn’t gonna be under strain and it’s not gonna crunch
through your gears. Obviously, there’s a lot
strain coming from you and that motor at that sort of time so just ease up on that pressure. (calm electronic music) When it comes to riding your
e-bike out on the trails there’s three different zones on the bike when it comes to hitting those trails. You’ve got the front zone, the
mid zone, and the rear zone. So 70%, 80% of your riding should be done in that mid zone of the bike. We’re talking about
quite a neutral feeling, we’re in between the wheels
right in the middle of the bike. Where towards the front the front zone, we don’t tend to go into there too much ’cause it’s kind of a danger zone, especially if you get your
weight too far forward. Anything you hit is gonna be
a pitch over the handlebars. We tend to only go there if we need a bit more front wheel grip. Obviously the mid zone
is the preferred zone and as you head towards
the back of the bike is a rear part of the zone. So this position is
when we want to go light on that front wheel or we’re
doing manual positions, drop-offs, things like that. So as I say, just get used
to that neutral position, try and set that bike up
so everything feels neutral and is in good reach. Things like that on the trails, really important part to
get is in that neutral zone, get used to that and when
you’re out in the trails you’re gonna feel really comfortable. (calm electronic music) The only time that I
stay seated on my e-bike is when it’s climbing. Obviously when you’re seated
you get a lot more traction from that back tire if you’re seated. If you stand up and try and pedal that motors gonna spin up,
you’re gonna wheel spin. So try to stay seated when it comes to climbing on your e-bike. So a really nice way of getting to know how that e-bike’s gonna
handle out on the trial is just to carve around,
try leaning it over, try those bite points on the tires, moving your weight forward,
moving it backwards, just feel how it affects that bike when you’re riding along on the trail (calm electronic music) When it comes to peddling that e-bike just make sure you’re spinning or scraping nice circles with your feet. Just stomping up and down on each pedal gonna feel all weird, gonna
be draining that battery and you and your battery are
gonna get tired really quickly. (calm electronic music) Brakes on your e-bike are a
really important part of it when it comes hitting the trails. Respecting those breaks too is really key a very powerful piece of equipment and it can send you over
the handlebars pretty easy or lock that rear wheel up with a little squeeze on the lever. So respecting them is a part of it, you need to learn how how they work and how aggressive they are. Really learn about brake modulation, modulation is key when it
comes to hitting the trails. You need to know when that
wheel is about to skid and when to let it off. Just feeling that bike and
feeling it through your brakes is vitally important when it
comes to hitting the trails. Getting used to those brakes
on your e-bike’s key as well. You’ll be going fast on these
things and knowing how to stop really important so get used
to dragging those brakes, feel the way the bite point is, feel the grip levels, how
hard you’ve got to pull them to do stuff, skids, just
little things like that when you’re hitting the trails. It’s all gonna make things a lot easier when it comes to slowing down that e-bike. So a really nice way to finding your e-bike’s stopping capabilities is by doing the emergency stop. Just find a nice flat section
of trail, put on those brakes, with good technique you’re gonna find out how much those tires bite in, where the bite point of those brakes is, just finding the limits and
obviously out on the trail you can knock it back a little
bit from that emergency stop when things get super sketchy. But knowing how to work your brakes and modulate them is vital. Whoa. Just by doing that
emergency stop technique what I’ve learnt it’s how
hard I can pull those brakes before they skid, front and
rear both skidded then so I know that I need to just knock it
back a little step from there, obviously depending on the grip levels but doing that emergency stop is a really good way of learning how powerful these brakes can be when you need them the most. So we’ve got that muscle memory now, I’ve got mental note in my head, how hard I pulled those brakes so when things get
sketchy out in the trails I know just to knock it back a little bit when I get into the sketchy moment. Just digging that bike into
the ground, pushing it in, getting as much tire
purchase into the ground, modulating those brakes, there you go, nice emergency stop. (calm electronic music) Okay, so let’s talk about
cornering on your e-bike. basically when it comes to corners there’s a few things we need to remember. First things first is the
braking point’s before the corner so you want to get that braking done before you’re into the corner. If you start braking in that corner it’s gonna cause all sorts
of problems with grip, body position, things like that. Just think about slow in
and fast out that corner, get it dialed, get your line
into the corner really good. Just make sure you focus on that line, looking through the corner
and looking towards the exit. Also, noting what we’ve got on the exit, if there’s a slight climb you want to be anticipating
that gear change or if it’s downhill section
get into harder gears. You’ve got more speed
to exit the corner with. So entry and exit is really important. midpoint of the corner
you really need to be locked into that line, thinking
about footwork as well. If there’s a burmed corner like this one you lift that inside pedal up so it allows that bike to turn in, it’s gonna enhance grip levels,
gonna give that inside pedal a bit more clearance on rocks
and roots and things like that so you’re not gonna get a pedal strike. Push through into the
corner, focus on the exit, and just push through,
Look further down the trail anticipating everything that’s coming and you’ll be flying through
the corners before you know it. So one of the biggest mistakes I see a lot of beginner riders
do when hitting the trails is not looking far enough down
the trail in front of them. When you ride in a normal trail
you need to be looking about three or four bike
lengths in front of you, reading that terrain and reacting to it before it reacts to you. Basically if you anticipate
an object and get ready for it it’s not gonna catch you out. Also if you do see that
object on the floor you’re not too keen on,
you know, it’s a bit scary or intimidating, just be aware of it, don’t fixate on it ’cause
if you fixate on it and keep looking at it you will
just literally run into it. It’s gonna pull you in like a magnet. (calm electronic music) Let’s look at me and what I’m wearing when I go out for a ride on my e-bike. Let’s start at the bottom,
we’re gonna talk about shoes. Shoes are really important. If you go out riding your bike
and a set of running trainers or wellies or hiking
boots, things like that, you’re not gonna have a very good connection with the pedals. Riding shoes are a lot stiffer in the sole so that power delivery is better. Also you’ll find that the riding sole is actually a lot stickier so
it connects to those pedals. Means you’re not gonna be sliding around. So a good set of cycling shoes is a must. To shorts or trousers, obviously depending on the weather
what you’re gonna be wearing but they’re going to be cut a lot better than your normal tracksuit
bottoms or things like that. Also good cycling undershort
like a chamois liner is a really good option too ’cause you spend a lot of time
in the saddle on your e-bike. Don’t forget to remove your underwear before you put those on. So a cycling jacket is a
really good option too. Obviously weather-dependent
but a cycling jacket is cut really well to suit
when you’re on a bike. It’s nice tight arms, got an extended rear so it covers your bum as well, stop all that rear-wheel spray coming up. Obviously designed to
be breathable as well. You’ll find like a cheaper
waterproof outdoor jacket, yeah, it might keep you dry but you end up being like a bully in
the bag fish overheating. So a cycling specific
jacket is really good idea. So underneath that jacket you’re probably gonna be wearing a top, could be a t-shirt or a
long sleeve cycling jersey. Again, that’s made of
more technical fabric so it’ll let you breathe and let you move around on the bike a lot easier so one of those is a good shout too. Moving up you’ve got your helmet. Obviously depending on what you’re doing and your confidence levels, I tend to wear an open face helmet ’cause I’m quite confident in my riding. Also vision’s quite good,
It doesn’t steam up, doesn’t get hot meaning that
it’s quite a good option for just riding trails. But if you’re pushing your limits or you feel a bit out of
control and not that confident on your e-bike you can
look at a full face helmet. So that’s obviously a full
helmet with a mouthpiece as well so it protects your face
if you’re gonna crash. The downsides of them, they’re quite hot, can be quite bulky, they
just don’t breathe very well. But it’s your call depending on how much you
want to protect that head. So gloves to protect your hands are a must when you’re out riding. It’s a first port of call when you crash you’re gonna put your hands out
so wearing gloves is a must. Lots of different options out there, I tend to go for a full finger glove which is gonna give you the
most protection in that crash. You can get mitts but
they tend to be a bit more for your ledger cycling, that’s
your cool on those as well. So when it comes to
other forms of protection there’s knee and elbow pads too. Often tailor it to the sort of
riding you’re gonna be doing. And bearing in mind you’re gonna be doing a lot of pedaling on that e-bike too. So for knee pads there
is hardshell options like a hard outer plastic cap which tends to be a bit more
for aggressive style riding or if you’re riding
rocky places like that. Obviously if you’re going to be peddling you want that to be quite a light weight, something that’s not gonna chafe as well so lightweight, comfortable knee pad is definitely a must for going out there when you’re a beginner,
same for elbow pads as well, try and keep that nice and lightweight, nice and flexible when
you’re hitting the trails. Another thing you might want to protect when you’re out on the trail is your eyes. So good set of riding glasses or set of goggles to go on
a full face is a good idea. Protect those eyes, you only get one set. Another good bit of kit
is a riding pack as well. In here I’ve got all my trail essentials, pumps, food, multi-tools, first-aid kit. Also for those bigger rides you might want to take a
spare battery with you as well so make sure you choose a riding pack that will accommodate a battery and also one that’s got
back protection in as well. This one has got like a spine board on. If your riding with a backpack that hasn’t got back protection in and you’ve got a battery in there, you crash onto your back
and that battery hits you in the spine it’s gonna be bad news so ensure you got back
protection on any backpack you’re gonna be riding with a battery in. Hope you’ve enjoyed today’s video and all those basic
beginner setup techniques and little tips to get
you a head start out there on the trails on your e-bike. It’s all about practice,
practice, practice, I can’t stress it enough. Any 10, 15 minutes you get
to mess around on your bike, be it outside your house or on the trails, all that time leads to
confidence on that bike. So confidence means progression. It’s a really exciting world,
the whole e-bike thing, getting into it and making your way up that progression
ladder is really exciting. Well I hope you’ve enjoyed today’s videos, if you wanna see five essential E-MTB tips we’ve got that one up here. We’ve also got how to progress your ride and that’s another cool video that I’ve done and it’s down here. Don’t forget to subscribe to the channel, we’ve got loads of awesome
e-bike content on here. Give us a thumbs up if
you enjoyed today’s video, drop us a comment in the box below, love to hear from you guys and we’ll see you in the next one.

29 comments on “10 E-MTB Tips For Beginners | Bike Setup And Riding

  1. Great video – I wish there was a little more on saddle height and positioning and dropper setup. That jacket you were wearing looks very nice – I guess it's for staff-only as it's not on your shop!

  2. best advice I received: it may seem impossible at the beginning, but as long as you practice and set gradual achievable goals, you will be able to do it.

  3. I agree you don’t have to spend a fortune, especially after purchasing that e-bike. I bought these goggles in the UK :

    £6.99. They could be £100 and nobody would be wiser. £7 and you forget you’re wearing them, that’s a win in my book 💪👍👌

  4. I'm getting older (50). I am in the market for new bike ( canyon spectral cf8). Yet I've started watching and I'm now thinking ebike ! My only concerns are : they seem to be advancing week by week and would buying one now mean it would be out date in six months ? And my riding friends are on normal bikes. Um.

  5. #askembn Can anybody tell me when the EMBN shop will stock this black jacket that Chris is wearing to do his piece on setup please. love the idea of more EMBN clothing to join the gear i've already got. thanks Dario

  6. With ergonomie for one,s body i will say it,s a compromise,when you are old in age one needs comfort,without letting the sport go just saying..thanx.

  7. Hi Guys I have been a roadie for 10 years after watching your videos for about 10 days I went out and bought a cube E mtb and loving it, I’m 62 so it’s never too late, keep up the great videos👍🏼🚴‍♂️🤓

  8. Is the is exelent bike men my prests diner boy. for compr the a bike wauuuu what is costosi boy in the paid losing.. Cya from the Santig of Chile 😭😔😎🙄📹😨💯🚴🍀🍀🚵🍀🍀1⃣🍀

  9. Good stuff, supposed to pick up my levo hardtail TODAY hurrah, the weather is atrocious though, thinking about waiting for better weather but I'm so excited i probably won't. Wish me luck

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