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$20 Budget Road Bike Workstand // As Featured on GCN

$20 Budget Road Bike Workstand // As Featured on GCN


Today, we’re going through the process of making yourself a cheap bikestand out of the parts we see here. Today’s parts list is pretty simple. We’ve got a folding metal leg sawhorse from Bunnings. One of these adjustable jobs. We’ve got an old skewer. We’ve got a roadbike front hub. We’ve got some u-clamps, and some screws. That’s all it’s going to take today. The tools to do the job though: drill, measuring tape, steel ruler, a couple of drill bits, and not quite the right saw for the job, but we’ll get it done with that. Let’s get on with the show. So, out of the shop, this is actually pretty close to what we need. But, once these legs are extended and this is flipped over, let me show you what doesn’t fit- is the bike itself. We can’t actually turn the cranks because…. Ignoring my dirty bike (that’s why we’re going to put it up on here and clean it)- you can see that we need to modify the width of the plank as well. Lengthwise for this bike though, we’ll put the bottom bracket near the end. Find out where the front hub should go, so it’s about there, we mark that off. And we’ve now got a position for our front hub. That’s the first measurements done for my giant bike there. So, the front hub will go here. Put a line across here where the front hub’s going to go, which places the bottom bracket right about there. But this is still too wide, and these legs are too far back. So what we’re going to do is modify this to put the legs a little further forward. And we’ll make this back section only 70mm wide so we can turn the pedals while the bike’s mounted up on here. Let’s get stuck into that. So, here’s where our front hub’s going to go. And back here is where the bottom bracket was sitting, but it was too wide. So, what we’re going to do is saw off a bit of that. But first of all, the other problem we had was these legs were too far back for the cranks to actually turn. So, what I’m going to do is use that hole there. We’ll take this one out and put it up here. But, we first need to grab some measurements on that. Let’s go old school. Going old school on those measurements. Going from there to there; there to there, and we put it right about here. That’s all we’ll need. Okay, I did cheat a bit, we’ve got a spanner as well. Or a shifter, depending on where you’re from. That isn’t a bad counter-sync. That will do it. So, they should be fine in there like that. So now, with the legs moved forward, we have enough room to turn the pedals with those cranks. So, as long as that’s back there, we’ve got space to turn the cranks. You can see that here- plenty of room. So, we have enough clearance this way now, but not this way. So, we will trim this off. So, out of the shop, this was 90mm across. We only need 70mm. You can take it off just one side, but let’s do both just to make it look neat. So we’re going to do 10mm either side. There and there. And we’ll go up to about here. 10mm either side. Same on the other. To about, well, nah, we’ll probably only go to about here. But that will give us enough room to turn the pedals. Okay, maybe not the best choice of tool for the job, but it’s the only one I have, so it’s what we’re going to use today. So, around about 10mm either side of that removed. Let’s see if the bike fits on here now and spins the cranks. Bottom bracket sits there. Plenty of room to spin the cranks. Looks good. So, we’ll put the front hub in place now. Now, we think it’s going to go about there. There’s no other science involved here. It’s just simply bolting it on and screwing it down. So, we wanted there. Mark out some dots. So, here we go, front hub on, nice and tight. We’ll put the skewer in here as well for now. So, now with the front skewer in, we’re pretty much done. Let’s check the bike. Okay, front skewer in first. Get that done up. Bottom bracket lined up just fine. There we have it. We are done! A few of the catches with this is if you’re using it with the rear wheel on- occasionally I won’t even bother about the rear wheel, but- if you’re turning the gears with a stand like this, it may go backwards quite easy. Easily fixed by putting a bit of weight here on the front end. Also, bottom bracket types, if you’ve got a bottom bracket with a rear set of caliper breaks underneath it, or my time trial bike which runs a cable there, you may have to put a bit of gaffe tape, or a bit of something there. If you want a bit more stability in the bottom bracket area while you’re working on the bike, you could probably put a bit of Velcro cable underneath here and around your bottom bracket just to really lock that in place. I haven’t worried about that, though. And best of all, it folds up pretty easy as well. Let me show you that. And you’re done. So there we have it, the super cheap bike stand that everybody’s seen in my other videos and have been asking me to cover. There we go. There’s one built from scratch using not much more than about $20 worth of stuff and about 20 minutes of my time. I’ll put links below of the products that I’ve used. And I’m sure they’re the same anywhere worldwide. Alright, thanks for watching. We’ll see you soon.

100 comments on “$20 Budget Road Bike Workstand // As Featured on GCN

  1. Try using a piece of 15mm plastic tube (used for plumbing) cut to the width of the forks. How many people have a hub lying around?

  2. If you're going to go to this extent, do something that actually works, instead of this unstable jury rig.

  3. Appreciate the video,Shane. Have to think if I will actually make one of these…would be useful so just might. Also like your no nonsense use of tools. I have never seen that masterful countersinking technique, but as long as no one gets hurt.

  4. And suddenly Bunnings managers are scratching their heads as to why those cheap stands are walking themselves out the doors 😛

  5. Good vid! I made ghetto one of these a while back after seeing it in one of your vids. I need to use a brick to weigh down the front end lol

  6. Worth pointing out you could easily pick up an knackered front hub from a bike shop. I used to work in one at the weekends during my time at school and there were always old wheels put out the back for binning. just cut the spokes out and there you go!

  7. Genius! Definitely need to build one of these. Can't seem to find an equivalent saw horse in the UK. Maybe the IKEA Oddball will do the trick.

  8. a cracking video Shane, a super cheap alternative to a very expensive item. being a joiner (carpenter in the rest of the world) my OCD was going of the charts watching you cut that with a hacksaw but I suppose needs must lol cheers for the tips and keep these videos coming buddy

  9. stop making videos like this. My gf might see it and think that there are other options for bike tools apart from park tool and this will really clash with my blue colour scheme in my garage

  10. For those in the U.S., you can get saw horse legs from Amazon. You just have to supply the 2×4. Its more than $20 but we don't have a bunnings here.

    https://www.amazon.com/Target-Precision-RB-H1034-Sawhorse-Complete/dp/B00005A1KE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487424496&sr=8-1&keywords=target+precision

  11. Fair enough but I don't see the point in spending thousands on a great bike to sit it on a $2 bike stand. I spent the money on a park stand the pros use on the tour. I use it enough and spent enough on my bike to justify putting it on a more secure rotating stand

  12. While you were in Bunnings a hand saw would have been a great purchase. Job much easier and you would have another tool in the shed😀

  13. from the stability point of view I would replace the leg as far to end of the board as possible and then I would make BB sitting in the middle of the board as there is largest weight, but Im not sure if it would fit due to cranks

  14. Great Idea, but I do already have a repair stand, that's a nice good tough for cleaning the bike so that my precious stand will stay clean.

  15. Nice work Shane! Looks a lot like mine – which isn't so rear-heavy. Sits higher for easier access, though mostly I jacked it up to clear my commuter's mudguard.
    http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=77521

  16. Greetings Shane;
    While this is by far the best Custom Bike Stand I've ever seen on youtube; this wont work for some bikes like mine.
    If your Gear Shift Cables pass under the bike; you will have them between the Bike and the Workstand.
    Yet; Great Job!

  17. Thanks for this lifehack!
    I bought Velomann Bike stand for 42$ (new from bike shop in Germany) , it's much more useful.

  18. crear faboulus congratulation,good imaginación building a rack for a God way yo Fox bicicle.

  19. well sir,thanks to you I just conceived an idea for a bike stand at 4 in the morning.
    The base and the legs will off course be wood and I'll be copying the PRS-22 team issue stand more or less to affix the frame to the stand
    My road frame has cables running underneath the down tube and under the bottom bracket so I can't just rest the frame like you did,luckily my friend is building a 3d printer and I can get my hands on short sections of aluminium extrusion(20×20Tslot) to hack together a contraption similar to the PRS-22 to place the bottom bracket.

    As for the front more or less the same setup as the park tool stand except I'll have to manage to fit my mtb's fork and my roadie fork too in the same fixture.

    I'll definitely make a video about it ☺

  20. I read the title as "$20 Budget Road Bike" and couldn't believe it. My mistake, good video regardless!

  21. A bloke with a shed with 25 smart trainers in it but only 1 saw?
    Nice hack though, I feel one in my future. If had a couple of bits of rope suspended from the shed rafters for about 8 years now that might get replaced.

  22. GREAT IDEA ! Very easy and something I am sure I can tackle with my skills. One question I have is – where would I get a hub and how much as this would have to be added the overall total (for me anyway) Thanks.

  23. I made this tonight, $17.50 for the Saw Horse, $4.20 for the screws and brackets and 10 minutes of my time. I had an old 1kg dumbbell weight lying around and have it hanging from the front, plenty stable. Thanks for posting this, it works a treat.

  24. Why does every DIYer use ryobi? Ryobi is the shittiest tools I’d rather buy harbor freight tools than ryobi😂😂

  25. Can you ride the bicycle for showme how is working with you, because my brain don't understand how it will be working on this height.

  26. I live in the UK and homebase had the exact same saw horse. Used a bit of 15mm copper piping for the quick release and some clamps to hold it down – brilliant! All for £25!

  27. Made one very similar to this a few years ago using the exact same saw horse. But instead i used a piece of timber screwed on the top as a support to raise the bottom bracket off the stand and lift the rear wheel clear. this also allowed me to position the front wheel mount further forward and make the stand more stable. I use a hole saw to cut a hole in the timber then cut across the hole to make a nice round slot for the BB to sit in. I also used a front fork mount I had instead of a spare hub. Plans were to route out a slot for the fork mount to bolt to to make it adjustable to different sized frames

  28. Had subconsciously filed this one away until I was Bunnings at the weekend and saw that saw horse…

    Now I have a work stand !

  29. Nothing to prevent the rear of the bike from swinging off the stand completely? I'll stick to holding it up with a jack stand.

  30. I think I'll go another direction, but thanks for the great vid anyway. Well done. BTW, in the US, your spanner is called a crescent wrench. Cheers! 😉

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