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7 Ways To Make Your Bike More Pro | Maintenance Monday

7 Ways To Make Your Bike More Pro | Maintenance Monday

– It’s your pride and joy, it’s your weapon of choice, it’s your bike. Today, I’m gonna show you seven ways on how to make your
bike more professional. Bar end plugs, there is nothing
worse than losing these. Having them fall out, whether
you’re taking the bike out of the back of a car,
leaning up against the wall, or simply they just fall out sometimes. Easy solution to this,
get some masking tape, also known as painter’s tape. Wrap it around the circumference
of the inside of the plug, that’s the bit that goes
inside of the handlebar. Wedge it back into the handlebar, and hey presto, it stays in there. I like to have mine nice and tight, so you actually need to use the tip of a screwdriver to pry them back out again. Fantastic little tip. (relaxed electronic music) My next little tip for you is to line up the tyre manufacturer with
the valve hole on the rim. There’s two reasons really. One of them is vanity,
simply looks better. Secondly, it helps you locate the valve faster when you go to pump up your tyre. Believe it or not, sometimes that is a struggle for some people. As well, a little bonus tip
here, if you are to puncture, say if you take out the inner tube, the puncture is about 10
cm away from the valve, you know to look about 10 cm away from the tyre brand from
the sidewall of the tyre. Just watch out that when you’re rubbing fingers inside of the tyres, that there’s no glass or
thorns sticking through. Otherwise your thumb
will soon know about it. (relaxed electronic music) Now rattling valves, they’re not as common as they once were,
but if you’ve got one, believe me, you will know about it. That noise will drive you
crazy, torturous in fact. A more elegant solution
than using just a bit of electrical tape around
it is to get yourself some of this heat shrink tubing. All you’re gonna have to do, place it over the valve, or the valve extender, depending on whatever you choose. Then hey presta, or presto, put it back in the rim, and
that stops it from rattling. Perfect solution to that annoying rattle. (relaxed electronic music) Now there’s something
very painful about having a frayed cable end poke you in the finger. It’s like standing on an upturned plug, or a piece of Lego perhaps. So, what you need to do
is put a cable end on it. Now you could match them
to the colour of your bike. How cool would that be? I’m not that cool, so
instead, I’ve got some little red anodized ones
instead, GCN red, of course. So I’m gonna put them
on, crimp them, job done. However, you could also use just a dab of super glue on there, making sure that all of the
strands are nicely intertwined. Put that super glue on
there, and it holds it. No need for cable ends,
and it also looks cool. Nice little tip, that. Lastly, I’m not good at this, soldering. Yes, that’s right, get
yourself a soldering iron, put a dab of solder on
there, job complete. Another elegant solution
to your frayed cable ends. Leaky valve extenders, now if
you use deep section wheels, you may well have been a
victim to this in the past. No longer though, have I got
a tip for you, PTFE tape. This is really thin plastic
tape, which you wrap around the thread of the valve extension before threading it into the core of the inner tube valve or
the tubular tyre valve. Simply done, then no more leaky valves. Quick-release skewers, believe it or not, they can be undone by other riders whilst you’re riding along. Yep, I’ve seen it done before, a front wheel has come in, opened one up. Seen it done on the back. The front, don’t think so. Anyway, better safe than sorry. What I advise is to put it
just behind the fork leg, or in the gap here in between the seatstay and the chainstay. So then someone riding behind, their wheel can’t
accidentally flick it open. Don’t do ’em up too tight,
because in the depths of winter, when your hands are freezing cold, you don’t wanna be stuck at the side of the road trying to open up that skewer. Believe me. (relaxed electronic music) The highly controversial
subject of handlebar tape. Today, I’m not gonna go
down that road though, because you lot will go to
town on me in the comments. However, there is one great tip for finishing off your handlebar tape if you finish at the
top of the handlebars. Now you’re probably split 50/50 out there, if you finish or start at the top. However, if you finish at
the top, my preferred method, the trick here is to
keep it just one width, apply a decent amount of tension, and wrap it in this direction. That means when you’re
pulling back on your bars when you’re climbing, which I
do quite a fair bit of really, you’re actually tightening it as you ride. And then, give it a cut. Try and make the cut hidden
as well, out of view. Job done. Nice neat handlebar tape finishing. Right, well there we are, seven easy tips for you to do to make
your bike look more pro. Remember to leave your tips
in the comments down below, and maybe I’ll learn something. Who knows? Remember to subscribe to GCN
by clicking on the globe, and for two more great videos, we’ve got How to Clean Your
Bar Tape, just down there, and How to Get Home with
No More Inner Tubes. That’s an adventurous one,
click just down there.

100 comments on “7 Ways To Make Your Bike More Pro | Maintenance Monday

  1. Nice video!  I just started doing the tire logo-valve stem alignment on my own.  So nice not to have to look for the valve stem.

  2. Jon, when crimping a cable end, try to avoid crimping on the raised portion; a proper crimp will take place in the mid portion of the cable end to ensure a firm crimp. The crimp should also be made parallel to the long axis of the bike i.e., more aero = more pro. BTW the shrink wrap idea was total pro!

  3. Heat the smallest Allen wrench you have and seal the ends of them electrical tape. That way you'll avoid something horrible. Also reverse electrical tape for for bar tape will make sure it won't get undone your bartape.

  4. If you'll do the last wrap w/out pulling tension on the tape it won't want to "creep" back and expose sticky tape residue. Alternately with tension on the last wrap, cut the tape a little long but don't press it down just let it hang for a while . Giving it time to do any creep back then cut and secure the end. It's a small suggestion but who like sticky tape residue?

  5. You can use thin heatshrink on cable ends as well, and it works even if the cable is quite frayed. Comes in lots of colours too.

  6. crimping with pliers? really? you need a 3-point crimp tool so they look really pro 🙂 Jagwire make a good cutter/crimp combo…

  7. So i am 16 and cycling for 4 months and i think i am overtraining and i dont have a scheduled training can anyone help?

  8. 2:56 Soldering a cable end may not be as easy as it sounds, sometimes the solder just doesn't want to stick. Been there, done that. However, if it does stick, that's as permanent as it gets.

  9. Judging by the state of that thumb he had first hand experience with glass in the tyre.

    Also Doddy coulda done all that with some cable ties

  10. Jon, Jon, Si, Matt, Dan, Tom… I can only presume that being a GCN presenter doesn’t require the spelling of any names longer than 4 letters!

  11. Ironically, quick release skewers were invented because of freezing cold winters and the days of riding with wingnuts. Our old mate Tulio go to work after being frustrated after he was unable to undo his wingnuts to change gear (yes, that far back, when flip flop hubs were used in the peleton).

  12. Maybe this is how I can revive my shitty old MTB 😀 Maybe next video you can show me how to fix my front gearing, thats completely a wreck, I'm using nothing else than a freaking sock to keep it locked into 2nd gear.

  13. re: QR levers. I've found that I have to have my rear lever very tight to stop an annoying clicking sound when climbing/sprinting. And get rid of that ass saver:) TBH plain silver cable ends would look better than anodised red ones. Lastly, that bar tape finish doesn't work for me.

  14. I go 1 step further with cable ends, after soldering them I then place a small piece of heat shrink on the cable end. Just neatens it up nicely and if you want you can colour match.

  15. Thanks Jon – GCN have made me change my way I align the quick release skewers. Now a question about internal looks – goo in tyres! After the first spring ride down under (1,700 klm on zwift in winter though), and the first puncture due to a well hidden burr or cat head, I have relented and let the bike shop put goo in the tube. Pro or practical ? And yes I lined the tyre branding with the valve Twice today – once on the road and once at the bike shop.

  16. Really!? There are folk who start their bar tape at the top of the handlebars and finish on the drops!? That just weird!!

  17. Cutting excess steerer off once a good fit has been proven effective. Also replacing any bolts with signs of rust or wear on them, preferably with some nifty matching colors or titanium options!

  18. Better than a dab of superglue, use a dab of nail polish on cable ends. It works a treat, is cheap, and you can colour co-ordinate with your bike!

  19. Here is one I use, when taping at the end of a bar wrap, remembering to finish the tape underneath. Heat a spoke and sear the tape on the cut, this will stop it from unravelling.

  20. If you have white bar tape and they are getting dirty…try Tire Whitener… Westleys bleach white!! Works great!! Brand new bar tape!!

  21. Handlebar tape tip: Heat the threaded end of a spoke with a lighter. Add one or two bar tacks to the end of the electrical tape by gently and briefly pressing the hot spoke against the tape joint. It will never come unraveled. Never.

  22. Dear GCN – I have a question/challenge. I live in a small flat without access to a garden or a wet room where I can hose down my bike, which I get filthy on a regular basis. What is the best way to get my drive train degreased, rinsed and re-lubed without getting the floor wet and without taking the chain off? At my disposal I have a bike mount (like in the video), a ParkTool cyclone, a sink, an old blanket and plenty of rags.
    I'm most worried about getting all the degreaser off the chain before I relube.

  23. The brand of your bike components should be the same one. If you're confused, just check out the UCI World Tour teams' bikes. If you have ZIPP stem, 3T handlebar, FSA seatpost, Fizik saddle and Campagnolo wheels with SHIMANO drivetrain on the bike.. oh well, looks very very messy.

  24. I use a piece of electrical cable sheathing on cable ends . I always put the tyre pressure recommendations of the tyres next to the valve so it's easy to find .

  25. handlebar tape looks not pro wrapped on the end, pitty when you see it in this instruction video, this could be done better. also a tip!= vaseline on your screws prevent rust!, its also good for removing rust on the inside of the screws, stem etc..etc

  26. Liquid Solder on cables. Never use valve stem nuts or caps. Remove all the size, warning and other non essential stickers. Replace dirty bar tape. Clean your bike! Never use an accessory unless it can be mounted cleanly and looks like it was meant to be there.

  27. "Nice neat handlebar tape" Only you didn't move over with the tape and tighten the loose bit!.. It was driving me crazy😂

  28. One tip I learned from Calvin Jones at Park Tool is to secure the finishing tape with a hot spoke end. Once the tape is on, heat up the threaded end of a spoke then press it against the underside of the finishing tape. It will gently melt the tape layers together so they don't come undone or slip around when the tape heats up in the sun.

  29. You said SOUL-der! Hey I pronounce it that way too! Why do I then keep hearing people pronounce it SAW-duhr ??? Grr!!!

  30. you know what they say about good intentions, right, Jon ? NEVER EVER put a soldering iron near a bike !!! you are a braver man than me !!

  31. So handlebar tape is the same to cyclists as thermal paste is to PC builders? (Always arguments in the comments section about using too much, too little, wrong application method, wrong brand.etc)

  32. Use a clothesline pin to attach an ace of spades to one of your seat stays in such a way that it contacts the spokes to make a cool noise when riding!

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