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Best Place To Mount Bags To Your Road Bike? | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

Best Place To Mount Bags To Your Road Bike? | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech


(logo whooshing) – Whoa. Tell you what, happy new year! What a night, should have seen Oliver. Nutcase on the dance floor. I’m going to need some of this, I reckon, to get me through this one. As ever, you know the drill. If you’ve got yourself
a tech related problem leave it for me there in
the comment section below and I’ll do my very
best to try to solve it. Right. Crack on then. The first one this week
comes in from Micheal Ahles, who says, “Can you tell us please “if spending more on aftermarket “or even standard Shirmano Dura-Ace cables “and guidesets, or gear sets,
really make a difference? “Thanks for the great info, Mike.” Micheal, love this question. I absolutely obsess over
brakes and their smoothness and the quality of it. Gears, not so much, ’cause
these days they’re all good. And actually I use electronic So bit of a confession there. But, when it comes to braking. Most cable sets, when they’re
new, tend to be pretty good. Right? So there are a few shoddy ones
and if your paying peanuts you’re not going to get
great ones, lets face it. But if you’re buying Dura-Ace
ones you are going to get really, really good quality
brake cables and gear cables. The back brake is always the one which seems to be effected most. Normally it’s because
of the cable routine, and everything like that. But yeah, I would always
actually recommend using a higher quality cable set. Sometimes it can be a little
harder to swallow, if you like, when see the price of them compared to those entry level ones, but I believe the
difference is actual there. My favorite ones actually, out there, have to be the Jagwire. I think they’re called
the Elite Link system? Well, something like this from Jagwire can save yourself a lot of
agro when your out on the bike because they’re super flexible, because the actual cables
themselves are linked up. Each individual piece is joined together, which allows you to have a
super flexible run of cable. Because, inside of there,
you’ve got a liner, which your inner cable runs through and essentially allows you
to route it oh so perfectly, in my opinion anyway. Now we come into a variety
of different colors here too. And you can even save yourself
a bit of weight on them too because the shift cables,
you’re going to save about 20% over a traditional cable,
and for braking, 50%. Add that up for a bike, and that’s quite a lot
of weight you could save, for probably not quite a lot of money. But yeah, quality cable does
make a massive difference. Right, next up is Joshua Picarri who says, “I’ve got a Chris King R45 hubs “and would like to swap out the bearings “for some nice NTN ones,
preferably not angular contact. “What size bearings would
I need and is it possible “or has Chris King locked
me into their bearings?” Not possible, right? So Chris King bearings are actually made by Chris King themselves
or actually, sometimes, probably by Chris King himself too. Some of you will remember I
once did an interview with him. Really cool story, how he
managed to get into the industry. But, yeah, those bearings, they are designed purely for those hubs. They are angular contact and adjustable. You can even service them yourselves. You can pop off the
seals, little metal seal, I’m pretty sure on the
R45s, you can pop them off and you got the rubber one
underneath, pop that off, flush that out and
regrease and repack them, they’re good to go again. I’ve got to say, actually,
the customer service from Chris King, too, has
been absolutely excellent. I had a pair a few years ago,
had a slight problem with them and they solved it straight away. The quality of those Chris King products really is that good. Not the lightest things out
there, I am going to say. Chris King would also
agree with me on that, but the quality of them,
yeah, is really really good. Right, next question then comes in from Tokyo Cyclist who says, “Hi, Jon. “I hope this question is
relevant for this show. “For my rides, especially on longer ones, “I carry quite a lot of stuff, “water bottles, food, toolkit, pump, clothing, kitchen sink.” Nah, he doesn’t actually say kitchen sink. “Does it matter where most
of the weight is placed “on the bike with all this stuff? “For example, towards the back
of the bike in a saddlebag, “or on the front in a handlebar bag? “Or is it better overall to free up “as much weight as possible off the bike “and carry all of it in a backpack? “For overall performance and
safety, what do you recommend?” Right, first of all, Tokyo
Cyclist, absolute legend. Watches my Instagram live
videos every now and then and always comments on them. Right okay, firstly, I prefer not to carry anything on my handlebars. The reason being your limited
then for actual position of where you put you hands on the bars, ’cause normally you have them like Velcro, and like an attachment
around the tops there, so you can’t necessarily
hold on to the tops as comfortably as you’d like to. Not to mention it makes
steering a little bit sluggish, a bit heavy, little bit
more awkward and cumbersome, if you like. So, I would always put it
actually on the back of my bike. The reason I don’t put it in a rucksack if I’m carrying loads of stuff is, well, gives you a bit of a sore back. Less aero, probably, as well. Big old lump coming out your back, And gives you a sweaty back too. So, a big saddleback, you can get them, that clamp on to the actual seat post, and sometimes underneath
the saddle rails as well, just to hold it, little bit of stability. Alternatively, there is a
brand out there, Tailfin, they make a super light
pannier rack, as well, made out of carbon fiber, so you could have a couple on there. I think they made one for, the
Transcontinental, last year, I think it was, as well, that was like the ones that attach
onto the seat post too. But, yeah, I’d always go
for something on the back, not on the front. Something you need to
be aware about as well, is some bikes actually
have a weight limit, believe it or not. So you can’t overload them with
different bits of equipment. Just bear that in mind. Next up is oven cleaner. Oven cleaner? Oven cleaner, anyway oven
cleaner’s question next. “I’d like to see a video about
integrated bars and stems. “For example, the new
Cannondale Supersix Evo, Orbea Orca OMX, Trek Madone. “I know these bikes have split spacers “so you can shift the stem height “without pulling everything apart, “but if you were to lower the bar height, “what would you do with the extra cable? “Does it just sit in the frame, or would you actually
need to cut the cable just to play with the bike
fit, then replace the cable “if you decide to put
the bars back up again. “Also, if playing with the bike fit, can you put regular
spacers on top of the stem “so you can ride before
deciding if and where “you want to cut the steerer tube. “If you make a video about this, “I think it will actually be “the only one on the whole internet!” It probably would too. And also, firstly, these integrated bikes, you know, like fully in
rooted cables and everything, they are pretty unique among themselves. They look pretty similar but
the rooting and the systems and everything can vary from them. So right, lets tackle your first question, about the cable inside of the frame. Generally, if the cable is inside of there you don’t need to worry about
shortening it or anything, it’s just inside of the frame, right? So unless you raise your bars a lot, may you need to actually
put a longer outer cable or in cable inside for instance. Most of these integrated bikes, like the ones you said on there, they all use hydraulic dis brakes too. So having the actual cable in there, it doesn’t effect the braking
or anything like that. You talk as well about
having the regular spacers, on top of the stem. Yeah, you could do, providing, of course, that you can get them. Some of them actually have
integrated top cap covers too, for the stems and everything, to make them a little bit more aero. I think the BMC is one that
does and I think Giant as well. Sadly, when it comes to
this sort of question, there isn’t sort of a one
answer covers all bikes, ’cause each one is individual. But essentially, you don’t need to worry about having some extra cable
or hose inside of the frame, it’s absolutely fine,
and in most cases too you can put some extra spacers on top before you decide to cut
down that steerer tube. Final one this week comes in
from Josh Tipping who says they’re currently running
Ultegra 6800 short cage rear mech with a 28 tooth cassette. So 6800 is a standard one with a 28 tooth, everything there normal. “I bought a rear derailleur
hanger extender to fit, “as I struggle to shift into the 28 tooth. “I’ve tried increasing cable tension “and aligning the limit
screws but to no effect. “Do you think this will solve my problem? “Will I need a new chain due
to need more chain links? “Thanks in advance.” Possibly. You need a new chain, really, tend to do that than rather
than adding some links because you can’t really
buy them separately, not that easily. But I reckon you’ve probably
missed the trick here. I think you probably need
to try and set up your gears all over again. So it could well be the limit
screws are absolutely fine, but I reckon that your high
screw is unscrewed too much, and what it is, when your changing gear, the cable is taking up the
slack or the extra overlap, if you like, from the where
the upper pulley wheel is sat, and it’s too far over to the right, if your looking at it from behind. So just have a look at that. So just screw it in,
you know, a little bit, until that pulley wheel
is sat directly beneath the 11th tooth sprocket or
the 12th tooth sprocket. Undo your clamp, cable clamp bolt, pull through the cable nice
and snug, tighten it back up, and then go through the gears. That I reckon is probably
what is happening there. Because the derailleur hanger
extender with a standard 28 tooth sprocket and a short cage mech, you shouldn’t need that on
there whatsoever, right? So the only other thing could be is maybe your derailleur
hanger, at the moment, is bent, and it’s bent outwards from the frame and it’s not letting the rear derailleur move over far enough. That really is all I can
think of with that one. Good luck with it. Right, I hope you’ll be able
to solve your bike problems and a happy new year
to everybody out there. Remember, like I said at the start, if you got a bike problem,
leave it for me down there in the comment section
and I’ll try and solve it in an upcoming episode. And also why not check out the GCN shop at shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com And don’t forget, subscribe to the channel and click the little notification icon so you get an alert each and
every time we put a video live. And speaking about videos,
two more absolute crackers, how about click just down
here, and just down here. I’ve got to go get and ready
now, for the Tech Show.

63 comments on “Best Place To Mount Bags To Your Road Bike? | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

  1. Hello there😁
    I have just started a YouTube channel.
    Check it out , you are going to love it!

    Thank you for your time amigo😁

    https://youtu.be/Ga7Je4zy-fk

  2. Love the information Jon gives. Would like to know if/when you hear back from people and your advise fixed their issues. What percentage of people message back to thank you for the help?

  3. Happy new year Jon! Let’s get another bike build going, there always great! What about an old CX bike to a super CX bike?!

  4. ('Uh-Jink-Yuh' is the right way to spell my name)
    Hey Jon! I am new to cycling & riding a Btwin Rockrider 340 with Shimano Tourney groupset with a 3X 7speed setup (nothing fancy) I want to upgrade it to gain more speed on the road, I currently avg at around 25kmph. The local bike shop mechanic suggested changing the Crankset to a 52,36 paired with the existing 14,28 Freewheel at the back and claims that my bike will get faster and I won't have to change the shifters or derailleurs ( might need some chain links or a new chain & even a new freewheel if needed) What do you think would be the optimum solution to get maximum displacement from such a setup? I don't wanna spend much on upgrades as I'm planning to buy a nice road bike pretty soon! Cheers 🙂

  5. I snapped my stock gear cable in the shifter and replaced it with the Jagwire Pro Slick Inner and it made a whole world of difference. Never knew shifting could be so smooth and easy. Definitely worth the 6 quid.

  6. Thanks again. Great stuff.
    On the last question I would agree with you about a bent hanger. One of the best tools I have ever bought is a hanger checker and straightener. A few moments with this and all my bikes are smooth and slick. Even many new bikes have misaligned hangers.

  7. #AskGCNTech I have a Planet X tri Exocet bike 2014 in white and blue, which needs some paint repair but I can't seem to get the colour exactly right, using hobby paint. I tried asking Planet X for colour codes but they don't know them, is there any other way to find out what colour to use? F.ex. finding the factory that build the bike and ask them or?

  8. Hi Jon, ive got a voodoo limba cyclocross and it seems to skip gears alot. I have crashed it alot so i dont know if that has anything to do with it

  9. Hi Jon love the show
    The one with the hanger extensor problem is similar to my friends problem and it turned out the extender was bent and not any problems due to his original system
    Over sea 🌊 parts 🤪

  10. Tokyo Cyclist should consider a small frame bag – keeps the weight evenly distributed and have a surprising amount of space.
    Only downside I've found is that because I have a narrow pelvis I tend to graze me knees.
    The topeak one I've got still allowed space for bottles. Consider quite how much you're carrying on a regular ride. A good multi tool will cover most things which can be fixed at the roadside – although if you're unable to get rescued more tools are essential!

  11. Josh's problem may also be his B tension screw, if. That's too low the gap between the derailleur cage and the cassette may not be large enough to allow him to shift into the 28 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

  12. You should do a gig on Ted Ciamillo's new brakes — you may be very surprised! Yes, pricey, but he postulates they carry the smallest frame factor, as well as, the lightest on the market.

  13. No one seems to really care about weight when it comes to grams, hmmm. Why is this? And wider tires with all that extra annular weight to sling around in the guise that at one particular point in the cycle they roll smoother and faster? What's this, seriously? Give me tubulars any day — if you have the right technique they're not tough to install. Cheers.

  14. Reckon the problem with the derailleur is that the hanger is direct mount and the link/bracket axle needs to be removed. Instructions are in the dealer manual

  15. Hey Jon, been riding for a month. Mostly learned everything I had to know by watching gcn. What do you think about wax + ptfe as chain lube?

  16. Hello John! I built a gravel bike with an 1×11 Sram Apex (42 x 11-42) groupset and I'm having problems when riding on the easiest gear. The chain jumps to the second gear sometimes when pushing hard on a climb. The limit screw is at the limit (I can't get the derailleur closer to the sprockets) How can I solve this problem? Btw I see the chain is quite deflected when using that easier gear. Also, I should mention that I needed an spacer for installing the cassette because of the dimensions of my hub. I have worked with the tension, limits and the b screw and I can't solve it.

    I hope you can help me!

  17. Another great vid as always , due to the increasing near misses , several everytime i go out, i was wondering if you could do a vlog on good safety cameras , best to buy so to speak ???

  18. @oven cleaner – The Orbea OMX “blue paper” says NOT to add spacers above the stem. I’ve ordered an OMX frame. I’ve got two possible plans… 1) To try various placements without a top cap or proper preload and do some short, slow tests in the smooth LBS parking lot or on their Wahoo Kickr. That wouldn’t be long or rough enough to damage any headset components and would give me confidence that I’d avoid a costly mistake. 2) I might get it built with maximum (40mm) spacers and take it to a proper bike fitter. I’ve done measurements and calculations on my existing bikes, so I know what I want in theory, but I want to check things in practice before taking a hacksaw to the steerer tube.

  19. OK Jon, I have a question, lucky for me it seems you don't get holidays!
    I have a bike I currently run tubulars on, and I want to change the from mastic glue to a tape like Jantex. Rims are the ubiquitous Ambrossio Nemisis, so aluminium. Is there any special cleaning or prep I should do to ensure a good bond? I don't fancy rolling a tyre, did that once, it didn't end well! Out of interest my other wheels are carbon, would there be a different process if I decided to do them in the future? Thanks in advance #AskGCNTech

  20. I'd like to replace my fairly average Tektro R315 brakes for something better – Ultegra R8000 for example. Would the callipers alone give noticable improvement? Or would I need the STI's and cable set also? Thanks! #AskGCNTech

  21. I have a small tank bag on my road bike and think it's great. It keeps all the small miscellaneous in one convenient spot, and it's totally out of my way.

  22. For safety reasons(stability) the best place to put weight is as low as possible, this makes the bike the most stable. For lots stuff i would recomand panniers over a seat tube bag and for smaller rides put it in one of the waterbottle holders…

  23. Welcome back boss, HAPPY NEW YEAR warrior. DO NOT DRINK RED BULL! horrible for your anatomical house. Keep up the great content Jon, thank you for all the great info, all the best in 2020.

  24. #AskGCNTech Jon, I am looking to buy a cx bike in the next couple of months, but I am struggling with wether I should buy some new cx/mtb shoes. Currently I am riding my 2,5 years old road bike with road shoes and pedals, but I will need some new pedals anyway because they have seen their best days (also, the pedals are white, just as the bike). Should I invest in some cx/mtb shoes and corresponding pedals or not?

  25. Hi, Jon! As always, thank you very much for the insight! I do hope my questions are helpful to others as well. Now I have an excuse to buy another (bigger) saddle bag =)

  26. #AskGCNTech Hi Jon, Happy New Year and I love the show. After regularly watching GCN I have developed a drivetrain cleaning ritual but I'd like to know if I am doing any damage. I am a wax lube convert (even during the winter month) and I have found the easiest way to clean a waxed lubed chain is to remove the chain (using a Wippermans quick link) place it in a container and wash it using boiling water (maybe a little household cleaner in there as well). After about 5 minutes I then remove the chain and dry it using a clean cloth and then place it the oven that I have preheated to 120 degrees. I then turn the oven off and let everything cool overnight. I find this cleans and dries the chain beautifully but am I damaging (or shortening the life) of my chain by doing this. I await you guru-like advice. Thanks.

  27. #AskGCNTech I recently had one of my bikes up in the stand and noticed that the chain is rubbing inside the front derailleur cage while on the two smallest cogs of the rear cassette. (I don’t notice this while riding because I never need these cogs due to lack of power) It seems like this is due to either cable stretch, or the high limit screw adjustment. Is there an easy way to tell which, or could it be something else altogether?

  28. I recently finished my mobile contract, changed to a different mobile phone service provider, and seemingly corresponding to the change, have noticed a lot of missing segments on Strava, particularly there-and-back type rides, seems to be the way back just doesn’t register often. I don’t use a device like a garmin etc, only my iPhone, mounted on the bike. My question is would a garmin or similar device remedy the problem, and does cost factor-in to it, i.e. is an “economy” model liable to add nothing in terms of improving things?

  29. Could you please explain wheels? I have a set of DT Swiss P1800 Spine 23 that came stock on my bike and am running them tubeless with GP5000 TL tyres and disc brakes (and thru axels). I use the bike for commuting and sometimes longer rides, not racing, but I do like going fast and will happily tonk along at over 30km/h for extended periods. While looking around at possible upgrades, wheelsets is something that comes up often as you would expect, however, I can't work out where the benefit may lie (if there is any). The current set weighs in at 1670g, and it appears some weight can be shed but only minimally given the disc and axel requirements, and that minimal weight gain can often translate to a LOT of $$$. How does depth affect the performance if the weight is the same, or does it just bring it closer to the centre from the outer edge even at the same weight so less torque needed to accelerate the mass in a circle (lower rotational inertia to overcome)? For example, something like the Hunt 34 Aero Wide, what would be the impact of the 34mm depth over the existing 23mm, and the loss of around 120g combined (if published weights are accurate), or is there a whole lot more that I'm overlooking?

  30. Didn't Emma do a wind tunnel test on bag location? Where, oh where did Emma go? What have you done with her? #free Emma!

  31. Hi, my lovely 1990 campag Chorus 8 speed hubs have loose bearings which I've replaced and regressed. The wheels just don't run smooth. On closer inspection looks like the cups are pitted. Can you change the bearing cups on older campag hubs and is it an easy(ish) job? Cheers!

  32. #AskGCNTech Hello Jon, I have a mighty irritating problem. To cut it short: When riding in small chain-ring the drive-train is dead silent. As soon as I change to the big chain-ring a squeaky sound appears. The sound holds throughout the entire pedal stroke and on all cassette cogs. I can not for my life figure out where it comes from. You have any idea?

    Side notes: I did change my chain-ring from a Shimano 105 50/34 to a 52/36 some time ago. My rear cassette is a 11/28. I've noticed the squeaking before but it went away and now it's back again. I have not change anything else.

    Many Thanks
    /Alaska

  33. #AskGCNTech
    Hi Jon. I have a bearing question. Do Pro riders remove the dust cover and replace the grease with oil in cartridge bearings? I have read that the dust covers are the major contributor to friction in a bearing so it would make sense to remove them if riding a time trial race.
    Regards Guy (George or Alex)

  34. #Askgcntech
    Hi john and people of gcn tech
    ( for john my name is yasser al-harithi ) not hakahati it is easy name ,
    I have q about rear hub body , it is my worst nightmare since i started cycling ,
    I have ultegra hubs and cassette , my free hub body sound become different it is quiter than usually , it is been more than 4 month since services but , but i dont ride that much ,
    I used to use oil with my old freehub cassette and all of them after some time 😅 stop wotking , so replacing them but they were cheap , but here we go ultegra is not
    So what should i do , please help

  35. Hi Jon, I'm upgrading from 10 to 11 speed and I want to keep using my 10 speed dura ace 7900 c24 wheels, can I swap the current freehub for a shimano 11 speed freehub, if so, does any 11 speed shimano freehub work? If not, any other suggestions? Thanks #AskGCNTech

  36. Hey jon,
    I upgraded my groupset to the latest Shimano 105 r7000… but the brakes do not fit with my frame. The brake arms are too short, therefore the pads are not centered on the rim. Is there a different version of the r7000 brakes? Or what dual pivot brake set can you recommend that has a similar performance?
    Thanks you very much for your help
    #AskGCNtech

  37. #AskGCNTech Happy new year! Brilliant show, please keep up the good work. When riding in a tailwind, which is faster, increasing your rear surface area by sitting up to catch more tailwind, or is decreasing frontal surface area by tucking into an aero position always best regardless of wind direction?

  38. Hey John, I have got myself my first ever disc brake bike and I love it. However, I can hear a tiny bit of rubbing between the discs and the pads (both wheels) happening randomly. It usually happens when I ride in wet and/or cold weather condition, over some irregularities on the road. It sometimes happens while I am standing on the pedals and the bike is leaned to the left. What would be the cause here? #askgcntech

  39. #askgcntech
    Hi, I have an old Merida Road 903 from 2003 or 2004 (not sure), and it needs some new parts. The only thing that is new is the BB, tubes and tyers. I know I should have taken better care of it but I was 18 or 19 when I got it and didn't know anything about cycling except that I liked it, and also I have a new one now. But since I still can't do anything as a mechanic I need to start to learn. I know that there are videos on how to replace everything, but what parts would fit that I can buy today, some 16 years later? It has Tiagra STI shifters and Tiagra front/rear mech, Sora breaks and Sora wheel hubs. I do not know what Tiagra/Sora version, but it's from 2003/04.
    Help me become my own mechanic.

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