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Best Tyre Width For A Road Bike? | GCN Tech Clinic

(electronic music) – Now welcome back to another episode of the GCN Tech Clinic,
where I do my very best to help you get your bike rolling again as fast as possible out there on the road. Remember as well to
leave me your questions down there in the comments below. Let’s crack on then, shall we, with the first question this
week from Willem Niehorster, who says, “The Neutral Cars during “the Tour de France have extra wheels. “Does it matter if a rider is using “Campagnolo, Shimano,
or SRAM, or do they have “specific wheels for all group sets? “How about gear ratios? “Are these agreed beforehand
depending on the stage?” Hi, Willem, great to hear from you. Well, let’s tackle, first of all, the 11-speed situation, shall we? All different group sets
there with 11-speeds, so Campagnolo, SRAM and
Shimano are all compatible with one another in the cassette area because the spacings
are virtually the same. It’s absolutely fine to
grab a wheel from someone who’s using a different
brand cassette, for instance. However, with those wheels from Mavic and their neutral service
there at Tour de France, they will be using, probably likely, all using one type of cassette. As for the ratios, probably just gonna use the standard 11-28. Maybe, if there’s a really savage climb, then they might well put
something a little bit lower, so like a 32-tooth sprocket on there, but more than likely,
they’ll just stick with a 28, reason being, if your derailleur is not adapted for that, it wouldn’t work. You get a wheel from the neutral service, be basically in the same situation, you’d be not able to go anywhere if it couldn’t be accommodated
by your rear derailleur. I hope that’s answered your question. However, let’s just look, though, because Campagnolo have
thrown a spanner in the works, haven’t they, because they
launched a 12-speed groupset. I haven’t spotted any pros using it yet, so presumably, the Mavic cars, they’re not carrying those wheels because there’s no demand for them, but I’m sure that, next year, or possibly later on in the year, we will see some riders
using that 12-speed. I’ll keep you updated though as and when we do see it. Next up is a question
from Carvedtop, who asks, they recently purchased a
new Giant Defy Advanced Pro without Di2 shifting, and their thought is to upgrade to electronic at a later date. When they decide to upgrade,
do they have to stick with Shimano, or can they
use SRAM eTAP as well? Well, you could use SRAM eTAP as well, but you are going to also need to change your disc calipers on there too, the reason being, Shimano and SRAM, they’re not compatible with one another because they do, in fact,
use different fluids to control those disc calipers. The best thing, if I were you, if I was in your shoes,
your cycling shoes, I would actually buy those Shimano electronic derailleurs and shifters. That way, you’re gonna
save a little bit of cash without having to buy those disc rotors. Right, now we’ve got a
question from Usama Usman, who says, “Should I keep
riding on my 19C tires, “or swap the rims and tires for 25C?” That’s a great question. You’ve not mentioned about where you ride and that kind of thing,
so if you’re riding on a velodrome, stick to those 19Cs, whack them up to 160 psi
minimum, and you’ll be fine. However, if you’re riding on the road, I would probably change for a slightly wider pair of tires, and also rims as well to
accommodate them if needed. Reason being, you are gonna
get a lot more comfort by using either a 23 or a
25-millimeter wide tire. Also, you’re not gonna have to use quite as much pressure in
there too for that comfort. Just listen to those
words of advice there. On the track, stick with 19C. On the road, go 23 or 25. I went to 25 a couple of years ago, and I’ve never looked back. Absolutely love them. Now, a question from Hugues Quebecois, “Love the show, great job.” Thank you very much. “Shimano have announced a new rear mech, “the Ultegra RX clutch rear derailleur. “I have R505 Hydraulic
Disk levers on my slate. “Will these be compatible?” Just to refresh everyone,
Shimano have launched a clutch-style rear
derailleur for road bikes, which is really quite welcomed,
if I’m perfectly honest, because it’s been a long time coming. The good news is, those levers
are 11-speed-compatible. They’re 11-speed, and so
is that rear derailleur, so yeah, it will work absolutely fine on that slate of yours,
Cannondale slate, I believe. For perfect one-by shifting, go for a narrow wide
chain ring on there too. If you’re using a double
chain set, obviously, just go ahead and carry on using it, but yeah, it’ll work absolutely fine. Richard Kendrick has got a clicky problem. They got some new wheels, and one of them, probably the front, is
making a clicky noise. It seems to be timed at
one click per revolution. What could be causing it,
and how do they stop it? Richard, annoying clicks are
just absolutely terrible, and as you say, they’re a
brand new pair of wheels, so I doubt it’s anything really severe with the bearings and such like. However, one thing to check, and which plagues most
deep-section wheels out there is in fact the valve ticking
on the carbon valve hole. Make sure that, basically, where the valve is popping through the rim, use some insulation tape,
and wrap it around there nice and tight so that valve
doesn’t have any movement, or certainly nothing
enough to make it click. For a really pro tip on that, get yourself some heat-shrink, and put that over the
valve, and then heat it up. That way, you’re gonna be
nice and click-free riding, or at least, I hope so. Another thing, only the
worst case scenario, and with very poor quality control, it could well be a spoke nipple which has got inside of the rim somehow, but I very much doubt that is the case. I reckon it’s your valve. Let me know how you get on with it. Now, we have another rattly problem, this time, from Mike Henry, who says, “Can you help with rattling
cables that are fully internal? “The housing as well.” That’s not just the internal cable, it’s also the outer cable
rattling a bit like that noise. Both his derailleur
and brakes on his bike. Well, Mike, a rattly bike is enough to absolutely drive you wild, like I’ve already mentioned. I’ve had a bike in the past
with rattly internal cables, and I solved it, and this is how. There’s two different ways. Some of it could be getting
some of that pipe lagging, so that insulation, the sort of thing you pack a bike with before flying, or also around your pipes to stop them freezing in the winter,
cut that up into strips, and put it inside of the frame tubes. Yeah, sounds a little bit daft, but it does stop the rattles. The other one is by using
some of that bubble wrap. Again, you can cut that up, and you can basically just
stuff it into the frame. It doesn’t hold water, nothing like that, and importantly, it’s really lightweight, and that stops rattles. I reckon you’re gonna be rattle-free now. Let me know how you get
on with that one, Mike. Next up is a question from Luis, who says their bike has
Ultegra Di2 transmission, and they’re thinking of
buying a new set of wheels. Now, if they want to have
a different cassette, so an 11-28 instead of 11-25, do they need to make any
adjustment in the Di2 system? “If so, how do I do it?” Well, Luis, you aren’t gonna actually need to adjust any of that
indexing at all, really, providing the over-locknut
distance is the same on both pairs of wheels,
which, it’s gonna be. It’s gonna be 130 mil
on those road wheels. You shouldn’t, at least I hope not, have to even touch that B-tension screw on the rear derailleur. That, in fact, sets basically the position of the upper pulley
wheel, and how far away it is from the cassette. In most cases, you won’t have to touch it, but sometimes, a couple
of turns of that screw, and it should place the rear derailleur just a little bit lower down. Now, you will possibly need to get a slightly longer chain,
or add a few links in to accommodate that 28-tooth sprocket, but yeah, you’ll be all good to go. Let me know how you get
on with that one, Luis. Good luck, mate. Next up is a question from Max Imillion. They’ve got a 105
groupset with disc brakes. When they shift to a higher gear, their cassette keeps making
this periodic rattling noise, like it’s rubbing on something. How can they fix it? Has it got anything to do
with indexing the gears? Right, well, first up, I’d actually try and get the rear wheel off of the ground, so in a work stand. Gently peddle around in that gear, basically where you’re
getting that rattling, and look very closely to make sure that the chain is not rubbing
on the derailleur cage, or if you’re cross-chaining perhaps, and also that the indexing is fine so that, basically, the
chain on the rear cassette is not touching on any other sprocket. If it is, it could well be
solved by cable tension. Worst case scenario is
that your derailleur hanger is become out of alignment,
and without a special tool, so the derailleur alignment gauge, you’re not able to actually
adjust that yourself without hacking or bodging it. Lastly, do check to make sure that the lockring of your cassette
is done up nice and tight because they can come loose sometimes if they’re not tightened
up fully to start with. Good luck, let me know
how you get on, mate. Next up is a question from Marcosthegreat. That’s a statement. Is it normal for the
drivetrain to be louder when using dry lube as
opposed to wet lube? Well, I guess it could be because, generally, a dry lube,
the fluid isn’t quite as thick consistency,
so it’s not as gloopy, basically, as a wet lube. However, I don’t really have
a scientific answer for you, but I did in fact learn last year that a noisy drivetrain isn’t
necessarily a bad thing, providing, of course,
you are in fact using a decent lubricant to start with, the reason being, the rollers
and pins of that chain are able to work probably
more effectively, and that noise is basically the chain working more efficiently. Providing, like I say, you are using a good quality lubricant, and
your gears are set up fine so there’s no rubbing
there, no indexing issues, yeah, but I don’t really
know the answer, I’m afraid, if either of them make a
chain louder or quieter. Final question this week
is from Mayank Sharma, who says, while cleaning the bike, they’re concerned if they
accidentally apply de-greaser to a part where they shouldn’t. “Please tell me the parts
where the de-greaser “shouldn’t be applied at all.” Right, well, it’s easier to tell you where you should apply it than shouldn’t. Really, just put it on your drivetrain, so your cassette, your chain
rings, your pulley wheels, and also your chain. Anywhere else on the bike
doesn’t really need it because you don’t have that buildup. Also, go pretty careful when applying it. Don’t go spraying it, if it’s
on an aerosol, really wildly. Just focus on those components. Keep it away, importantly,
from your bottom bracket. Don’t go in hard on that. Also, your cables,
don’t spray it near them because you don’t want to wash out any of that grease or lubricant. You want them to be running super smooth. Now, I do hope that you’ve enjoyed this week’s GCN Tech Clinic. Remember as well to let
me know your questions. Leave them down there in
the comments section below. Also, importantly, like a share this video with your friends,
especially if they’re plagued with mechanical issues because, hopefully, we’ll solve
some of them for them too. Also, remember to check out the GCN shop at Now, for another great video, this one, the latest GCN Tech Show,
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