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Can You Use SRAM Gears With A Campagnolo Groupset? | GCN Tech Clinic

– All right, welcome
back to another episode of the GCN Tech Clinic, where I try and solve your
bike related problems. So if you’ve got something
which is plaguing you, and you can’t go out on your bike, make sure you leave me that question down there in the Comments section below, or alternatively on all
forms of social media, using the #ASKGCNTECH. And with no further ado let’s crack on, with the first question this week, and it comes in from Yo Brobeans. All right, now they say, “I like the idea “of the 10 tooth sprocket
to increase the range “of gears at both ends. “However, I can’t afforcd
SRAM’s eTAP AXS groupsets “as the wireless technology
makes them too expensive for me. “Would the crankset, chain,
and cassette be compatible “with any other components
from different groups?” So, could they take the gearing from SRAM’s mountain bike range, and use it with a different groupset? “If so, any suggestions? “Preferably mechanical gearing
with hydraulic disc brakes.” Whoa, right, you’re not
asking too much there, are you, Yo Brobeans? Um, yeah, I guess you could
actually make that work. I’m not sure that the
mountain bike components could well work across with the road ones, because they tend to have
different pull ratios on the cables and everything, because that’s what you’re
going through there. And obviously you want
to use mechanical gearing with hydraulic disc brakes, so importantly, you need to make sure that you’ve got a rear
hub which is compatible with that cassette which has that 10 tooth sprocket on there, so you are going to need an
XDR driver compatible freehub, and I reckon probably the easiest thing for you to go with here, is the Campagnolo hydraulic
cable operated derailleurs, but obviously with hydraulic disc brakes. That’s probably the thing
which could well work, but I’ve not tried around with it, but certainly something for you to have to think about a little bit more, because it’s quite a complex situation you could well get yourself into. Next up is Avin Jansen. Now they say, “Please help. “I love putting on bar tape, “and I’ve got it down
to like a pro mechanic. “And I’ve just got a new bike with Di2, “and the Di2 junction
box and the controller, “what you set it up with is
at the end of the handlebar. “How do I do my bar tape, “because it’s got a cover that wraps “around the end of the handlebar. “Please help, a video would be great.” Right Avin, no video needed
for this one, my friend. As you’ve said, that Di2 junction box that goes on the end of the handlebar does have a plastic cover which just slots over the
outer circumference of the bar. What you’re going to need
to do with your bar tape, is essentially get it as
far to the end as possible, almost butting up against
that sort of plastic housing, and just wrap that tape as hard as you can without actually snapping, or risk breaking or
tearing the handlebar tape. I agree, it’s probably not as good as the original style of how
you’re going to fit bar tape, where you just have a
little bit of overlap, and whack it in with a bung there, but certainly this is
what all the pro mechanics out there do. Next up is Colin Jones. Now Colin says, “Hi
Jon, I do a lot of work “on friends bikes, which are
all internally routed cabling. “I’ve managed to get a
few lengths of tubing “from my local bike
shop that are taken off “of new bikes that they
build from the box. “This makes the job so much easier, “so I would like to buy
a decent length of it, “but I have no way of
knowing what size, diameter, “to look for.” Right, go for something with
at least an internal diameter of two millimeters. That way you can use it for both gears as well as brakes, because of
course an internal gear cable is a lot thinner, well
I say a lot thinner, but it is a fraction
of a millimeter thinner than a brake cable inner is, so go for something like two millimeters, because the thickest internal
brake cable you’re going to get is probably about 1.6 millimeters. So two millimeter internal measurement. It’s going to give you enough
room to chuck that cable in. And importantly, don’t loan out this bit of internal tubing to anyone, because people have a habit
of not returning things. And next up, we’ve got a question in from 1000 Subscribers
with no videos challenge. That is such a weird user name. Right, anyway. Now they ask, “Hey Jon,
I’m a junior racer, “and I need seven meters,
or slightly below, “rollout for events.” So, if anyone doesn’t know about this, when you are riding in youth categories, and junior categories, you
can’t use a humongous gear during competition. The reason being is that
generally your body, and your bones haven’t fully developed, and you could risk some
extra stress on it, so that’s why exactly they
have these rules in place. Anyway, back to that question. “At the moment, I have
a 14 to 28 cassette, “and 50/34 chainrings. “I’ve calculated that I
need a 52 tooth chainring “to get the right rollout, “however I’m asking
whether I can still keep “my 34 tooth small ring? “Can my Ultegra 6700
front derailleur handle “an 18 tooth gap between my chainrings, “or will I have to get a
36 tooth chainring as well? “Thanks, Flynn.” Right, a 34 tooth chainring, if you pair that up with a 52 outer ring, and unfortunately your front derailleur is not going to be able to
handle that very effectively, meaning that probably, I don’t know, three or four of your harder
gears in your small ring, so if you’re in the small chainring, and the smallest sprocket in the rear, the chain is going to drag
over that front derailleur cage at it’s lowest pass. It’s going to create so much noise. Really the gear shifting is going to be absolutely terrible too, so the best thing you can do though, is actually get a 36 tooth chainring, as well as a 52. Have a look around though, because you don’t necessarily have to go for the exact ones what you’ve
got on there at the moment. You could look for an
aftermarket alternative, which is going to serve you just as good. Next up is mikeylp03. Right, there we are. “Hi Jon, love the show. “I’m restoring an old Trek 1000, “and I would like to convert it “from a seven speed down tube shifter, “to a one-by 10 speed down tube shifting. “My question is two-fold.” So really you got two questions. “Can I fit a 10 speed cassette? “I’ve measured the rear
dropout to 130 millimeters, “and secondly, is the
down tube shifter capable “of being indexed for 10 cogs? “Thanks.” Good news here. Right, 130 millimeters is
what you need for 10 speed, so absolutely fine,
just make sure of course that the cassette is going to fit on the freehub and everything. As for your gear lever
being indexed for 10 speed, no it’s not going to be, I’m afraid. You could put it into friction mode, if that’s possible on your shifters, but friction mode is
really quite hit and miss, to be honest. It’s just something more to
faff around with down there. The good news is, though, Shimano actually still do make
a down tube 10 speed shifter. I think it’s the SL-7900. That’s what I’ve got on my old Eddy Merckx that I sort of rejuvenated
into a modern day equivalent of an old-fashioned race
bike, if that makes sense. So yeah, it is totally possible. Go ahead and do it, and then
submit it into the bike vault. Right, next up is Al Val, who says, “Hello from Barcelona.” All right, “Congratulations on the channel “I ride an aluminium Cannondale CAADX. “I’m going to replace my aluminium fork “with a carbon one. “I’d appreciate any advice
about the correct installation “of the compression plug “Carbon paste needed? “Torque of the bolts? “How to avoid galvanic corrosion “between the frame and the fork?” Right, okay. So you could apply some carbon paste around the internal of the steerer tube, before you put the expander bolt in place. I’ve never done it. I don’t think I know anyone
who actually does that, but I guess it couldn’t do any harm. As for the torque of
the expander plug bolt, well it does depend on what you’re using. So, some of the really lightweight ones, they don’t recommend
torquing them up too much, whereas some of the beefier
ones actually recommend up to eight Newtonmeters,
believe it or not. Now you mention about
avoiding galvanic corrosion. Well really you need to keep
on top of your maintenance, so make sure the bike’s clean, and you’re using grease and
lubricant where necessary. Really, if you’re going to
start sweating all over it, you are going to get a
little bit of corrosion, so yeah, just make sure you wash the bike as and when it’s necessary. Next up is Michael
Field, and Michael says, “Jon, when climbing and
swing the bike side to side, “I can hear the front disc rubbing “when it’s at full tilt. “Is this normal, or can
I stop it happening? “I’ve centered the caliper. “Thanks.” Right, it’s not totally normal, but it is normal to have
a little bit of flex in between a frame and a wheel, or a fork and a wheel, in your case. Something here to consider really, is that with disc brakes the tolerances are way closer than with rim brakes. In rim brakes we tend to
have a few millimeters either side of the rim,
where the brake pads are, whereas on disc brakes,
it’s a lot, lot closer, so any discrepancies
are much easier noticed. I mean we hear it on rim
brakes, for instance, too. Normally a lot more when
the weather’s actually wet, rather than in the dry. Something here to consider is that maybe your disc
brakes need bleeding, to try and get the
pistons to retract fully. Alternatively they just
need cleaning a little bit, to try and help them move in and outwards. Just give it a blast with
some disc brake cleaner. But yeah, it’s not that normal, but it is something that can be picked up with someone with very
good hearing like you. And the final one this week
comes in from Glenn Fullwood, who says, “Hi Jon, I look forward “to the GCN Tech Clinic each week.” That’s good to hear, Glenn. “I have a compact chainset, 50/34, “that came with my Bianchi. “I live in Southwestern Australia, “where it’s almost as flat as a pancake. “I very rarely use the 34 tooth chainring, “but when I do, it’s
always in smally smalls, “50/12, 50/13.” Ah, I reckon they mean 34/12, or 34/13, but it’s acceptable. “As I feel that the 34
tooth chainring is wasted, “can I change it for a 42 or 44? “will an inner chainring
as big as 44 not work “with the 50, or is this not a wise idea? “Look forward to hearing back, Glenn.” Glenn, lovely part of the
world out there in Australia. I look forward to my annual
visit each and every year. Right, okay, it’s absolutely fine to put a 42 or 44 inner ring on there, and if anything, you’re going
to get even snappier shifting from your front derailleur. Something to consider though, 44 tooth chainrings aren’t
generally that common, so it could be a little
bit more difficult to find, but a 42 is going to be
a piece of cake for you. So you go ahead, fit that. No more smally smalls
out there for you at all. Right, I hope I’ve been
able to help answer or solve your problem this week. If not, leave it for me down there in the Comments section
below, using the #ASKGCNTECH, and I’ll do my very best to answer it in an upcoming episode. As ever, remember to
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