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Convert Your Bike To A 1x / Single Chainring Setup!

Convert Your Bike To A 1x / Single Chainring Setup!

– Now, ranking up there in
conversations in cycling, along with gravel bikes and
tyre pressures and widths, certainly has to be the
1X drivetrain system. What is that exactly, then? Well, it’s when you
have a single chainring on the front of the bike, and then on the rear of the bike, you tend to have a wider range cassette. That’s certainly for
off-road applications. And then, on a road bike you can get away with a closer range, depending on, obviously, the terrain on which you’re riding. Today however, we’re gonna look at how to hack your way to a 1X drivetrain system. (upbeat music) Firstly, you are going to need to make up your mind if 1X is definitely
the way you want to go. Personally, I’m a little bit unsure of it, hence why I’m gonna
hack my way to it today. Now, you are going to need some special parts here. And obviously, you are
going to need a bike, as well as the components to turn it into a 1X bike. Luckily, I’ve been digging
around in the attic and I found a frame and also some old components there. So, I’m good to go on this, but, you can do it with an existing bike. How about then, the special parts that you’re gonna need? Well, firstly, you’re
gonna need one of these, which is a derailleur hanger extender. And that’s gonna allow you to run a standard road rear mech using a wider spread ratio cassette as opposed
to a mountain bike rear derailleur, which does in fact have a longer cage and can accommodate those extra teeth on the
cassette a lot easier. How does it work then? Well, it simply bumps onto
your existing mech hanger and then you put on your
current rear derailleur onto this thread instead. Now, no manufacturer out there actually recommends using these, and after all, this is the hack or maybe botch version. So, that’s why we’re gonna be using one of these today. (upbeat music) So, we want to make sure that chain stays on as good as possible. After all, this is the hack version rather than the perfect one. So, our mountain bike friends, well, they use narrow wide chainring such as this, to help keep the chain on because they’re riding
over really bumpy terrain. And obviously, we’re not using a clutch rear derailleur on our bikes. So we need every little extra, don’t we, to keep that chain in place. How does it work then? Well, every other tooth is narrow and every other tooth is wide. So, that meshes in the chain on your bike, which, if you look at it from above, you will notice that
the plates are thinner and wider alternately as
you go around the chain. So, you need to make sure, obviously, that the narrowest one
is on the narrowest tooth and that the widest is on the widest. Logical, right? Good. And you’re still with me. So, we also need to make sure that it fits on the chain set correctly. So, in this case I’ve really, really hacked this bike together. So I’ve got a Campagnolo groupset and I’m actually gonna
use a Shimano chainset which I’ve had lying
around in the workshop. So, this one is gonna
fit on it just perfectly using a 130 BCD. Now to attach that chainring
onto your chainset, well, I’m using a standard
road double chainset. So, normally you’re gonna have an inside chainring on
there and obviously, we’re getting rid of that. So, the chainring bolts, you’re actually going to have a little bit of slack
and that chainring is not going to be attached onto
the spider perfectly. So, in this case I’ve actually got myself some shorter chainring bolts. So, something like you’d find on either a single speed or a BMX bike, would be absolutely fine. Failing that, you could get yourself some quite thin washers
and slide those over either the bolt or the nut and actually take out that slack. Now for the cassette. This is where things do get little bit more complicated, because naturally, I’m gonna be running a
single ring at the front and I’m gonna need a wider spread ratio to get over any hills
that I may well encounter. So, in this case I’ve opted for 1132 because I’ve looked at my gear charts, and I’ve figured that that, paired up with a 50 tooth chainring, is fine for most things. So, using this type of rear derailleur which has a short cage, it isn’t able to actually
be able to accommodate the 32 tooth sprocket very well. In fact, it can’t at all. Hence, the reason why
I will be fitting this derailleur hanger extension to get the rear mech just a couple of centimeters lower so that upper jockey wheel can clear the 32 tooth sprocket. And I reckon, actually, once I fit it, it’s probably gonna be enough room for maybe even a 36, too. So, hey, if I’m gonna
gut the angular route, maybe that’s the answer. 5036. Now it’s time to just fit this narrow wide chainring. So, I’m going to remove
the existing chainrings using a five-millimeter Allen key and one of these, which is a chainring peg tool. Now, it simply slots
into the rear of the nut to hold that in place. And then using a
five-millimeter Allen key, you release the actual bolt itself, saving you, hopefully,
from skinned knuckles. So, the final piece of the jigsaw is to fit your chain. As you can see, I’ve just loosely put it in position. The narrow wide teeth
of the chainring there are matched in perfectly with the profile of the chain. Then, on the rear, as you can see here, it’s wrapped around that lowest cassette sprocket, so the 32 tooth. Now, the idea behind
this before I join it, I just want to actually make sure that the chain is the correct length. Too short and the chain is obviously gonna be in a really extreme position and too long, well, you’re gonna run the risk of it actually coming off of the chainring. So, let’s have a little cheeky look and that looks absolutely spot on. So, I’ll get that joined up and then we’ll actually have a look at the chain and the chainline and see how secure it is on there. So, there we are. It’s actually ready to ride. Now, obviously, you do have to put some proper pedals on and some handlebar tape. Like I say, this was an absolute hack. Which, hence the reason why I’ve got a zip-tied
outer gear cable on here, because this frame is
actually designed for DI2 only, so I’d like to say, I’ve made it out of bits and pieces found in my shed. Now, on initial look, the only thing I’m a little bit worried about is actually the tension on the chain, because obviously, it’s not a clutch rear derailleur and I don’t have a chain keeper deliberately in store, because I just want to
see how it does function. So, there is a little bit of slack here. So when I’m out riding that first time, I am gonna have to take it a little bit gentle, just in case it does dislodge, because who knows? Anyway, I will report back to you in due course and let
you know how I get on. Now I hope that you’ve enjoyed this and also, if anyone at
home has done a hack or a bodge of a 1X drivetrain, do let me know, because I’m very keen to read it. And has this maybe even inspired you to do similar? Let me know about that too. Now, do remember as well, to like and share this video with your friends. And also, don’t forget
to check out the GCN shop at And now, for another great video, this time Si showing you how to make your road bike into a gravel bike, click just down here.

100 comments on “Convert Your Bike To A 1x / Single Chainring Setup!

  1. I have hacked my drivetrain on my commuter… 42t narrow/wide front ring with an 11-32 on the rear. If you take a link or two out of your chain you can probably increase the rear mech tension while still allowing access to the biggest cog. If have had no issues since I converted (about 6 months ago)!!

  2. … Wouldn't this whole thing be more suited to your gravel grind viewers — and not the roadies? The latter tend to run 1x at crits in the U.S but it's absolutely not a thing here in Europe. Oooor are you just doing this because of the Aqua Blue Sport team trial run of the 1x? Either way, converting ("or hacking") a normal drivetrain to 1X would be more appreciated by the gravel crowd.

  3. Great video John, but there are many ways to do this. I have a Surly Cross Check that I hacked to 1x. I have Sram rival shifter, so I was able to use a Sram Gx (mountain bike) rear derailleur with a long cage (no extender needed). I went with a 11-40 cassette from Sun-Ring to help me up the mountains here in Utah. Up front I used a 44T standard chain ring with a chain-keeper. This eliminated the need for a narrow-wide chain ring. This has been a great set-up for several years now with no shifting problems, and no dropped chains (even on many long gravel rides).

  4. I've just stumbled across my old Pinarello Dogma frameset also in my loft and blow me my 2016 Super Record groupo,
    Let the 1 X build commence. 🚵🏼

  5. Have used a bodged 1x system for British hill climbs last few years, all Shimano components, nothing special, just mounted the inner chain ring on the outside, and took a few chain links out to keep the tension tight! Haven't dropped a chain in 2 seasons of racing! Might go narrow wide chain ring this season though so extra safety

  6. For many years, I ran a 2x drivetrain on my main road bike with 34-50t compact chainrings on the front and an 11-26t cassette on the rear. This bike is never used on gravel or rough pavement and is never used in mountains (it's mostly used in low rolling hills). After two years of never needing to use the 34t chainring, I converted the bike to a 1x. This was three years ago. I have a SRAM drivetrain and all I needed to do was switch to a 50t SRAM X-Sync 1x chainring at the front and an 11x28t cassette at the rear. 28t was the largest cog my rear derailleur could accommodate. I used that setup successfully for two years (about 10000 miles or 16093 km).

    At the beginning of this year, I switched to a 52t oval Rotor QX1 Aero chainring on the front (equivalent to a 54t round chainring) and an 11-32t cassette with a SRAM Red WiFLi rear derailleur with a medium cage. I would have preferred an even bigger chainring — like a 56 or 58t — but the only ones I could find were poor quality and did not position the teeth in the correct location. The reason for the bigger chainring is to reduce friction by moving the chain closer to the center of the cassette during most use (a trick used with triathlete and TT bikes).

    Here are some potential problems to avoid:

    Rear derailleur hanger extender – The top jockey wheel of a rear derailleur must not only clear the largest cog in the cassette (typically with 4-6 mm to spare) but the track of the rear derailleur as it moves across the cassette must be at an appropriate angle so it maintains an acceptable distance from each cog. Rear derailleurs that are designed for wide-range cassettes are designed with both requirements in mind. All the hanger extender does is enable the top jockey wheel of a standard derailleur to clear a larger cog. It does not change the tracking angle of the derailleur. This means the top jockey wheel may be too far away from the smallest cog if it is beyond its range. The result is poor shifting. The best solution is to get a rear derailleur that is designed for the cassette range you plan to use. If you must use a hanger extender, then be very careful to check the hanger+extender alignment to the wheel. Any hanger alignment errors will be magnified with an extender and that, too, will degrade your shifting. Park Tool Dag-2.2 will help you to both measure the alignment and bend the hanger+extender into the correct position.

    1x chainring – The most important design feature of a 1x chainring is not wide/narrow teeth — rather, it is the location of the teeth. Theoretically, you want the teeth to be centered in the driveline to the center of the cassette. If you compare it to a 2x setup, the 1x chainring teeth should be in the middle between the outer and inner 2x chainrings. In practice, SRAM recommends that you favor the outer cog of the cassette by 1-2 mm. This is why a 2x outer chainring is unsuitable for a 1x setup — it's teeth are too far off-center (toward the outside), which perpetuates the cross-chaining problem to the largest cog. But here's the problem that catches some by surprise: There are some cheap 1x chainrings on the market that do not locate the teeth in the correct position for a proper 1x drivetrain. Therefore, if you decide to experiment on your own (like I have) you need to do your homework on drivelines (a.k.a. chainlines) and measure the current driveline offset of your bike at the rear cassette. Then make sure the 1x chainring you use is compatible with your driveline.

    Chain length – The chain in the video looked too long. I recommend shifting to the biggest cassette cog, thread the chain through the rear derailleur and around the largest cog and the chainring, then pull the chain together until the rear derailleur cage is pulled nearly as far forward as it will go without rotating the top jockey wheel too close to the cog. Mark this chain length and add two links to it. This method takes the most work (and strength) but it produces the best results.

    Road racing frames with shorter chainstays are problematic for 1x because they have more dramatic angles in their driveline when cross-chaining. One way to reduce this problem a little, is to use a 10-speed cassette and rear derailleur. It will move the largest cog closer to the center of the driveline. Some cyclists who criticize 1x for having steps between cogs that are too large will probably blow a fuse over such a suggestion. But I rode a 2×6 drivetrain for many years and never noticed a problem. I could still find an acceptable gear ratio for the cadence I wanted to use. And, when you consider the redundancy in gear ratios of a 2x system, the actual "usable" gear ratios that you have is less. So I have no problem with the step size from 11 to 32t on a 10-speed cassette in a 1x system today. And I doubt I'll have any trouble with an 11-36t, either. Use what works for you and don't let others force you into their idea of "perfection".

    If you lube your chain with wax, be aware that 1x systems can take a little more work. You need to manually push a freshly waxed chain onto the wide/narrow teeth of a 1x chainring while slowly turning the crank for the full length of the chain in order to push out extra wax from the gaps in the chain. If you don't, the freshly waxed chain may derail off the chainring when you first use it. Most 1x chainrings have longer teeth than their 2x counterparts, but the tooth length of all 1x chainrings are not the same. For example, the teeth of my Rotor QX1 Aero are 8.0 mm long and the teeth of my SRAM X-Sync are 7.0 mm long. The longer 8.0 mm teeth can make it even more difficult to break in a newly waxed chain because the longer teeth engage the gaps of the chain earlier and must push more extra wax out of the gaps. This may not be a big deal to most waxers because the benefits often outweigh the problems. But it's something to be aware of.

  7. I was actually in the process of creating my own 1x drivetrain and your video helped quite a bit. Thanks allot.

  8. Old Trek 720
    With a 10 speed 11-40 cassette coupled with a 42 tooth wide narrow. Rear derailleur is a Shimano Zee mtb short cage with a Microsoft 10 speed bar end shifter. Works great! Never dropped a chain with this setup.

  9. But what about shift levers? It seems you need to have mismatched lever with the right side being sti and the left a totally different brake lever ;(. I love 1x but the manufacturers aren't servicing the market.

  10. My TT bike: Wolftooth narrow wide chainring, properly sized chain with no excess, sram red wifli hacked with 15t pulley wheels. Never dropped the chain. No clutch and no chain keeper is not a problem on the road, its not like you are riding through rock gardens. (psst find my photo and show it on the bike vault).

    Separately I use the derailleur hangar on my hill climb bike. 46/30 up front and 40t big cog in the back. If you go slower than 30/42 you are walking anyway.

  11. What about the STI lever? Does the unused FD lever fumble around while riding without the cable holding tension? What advantages do 1x offer that a 2x doesn't besides the minimal weight lost? #AskGCNTech

  12. Other ways to do this (that I have done):
    1. All SRAM 10-speed MTB rear mechs work with all SRAM 11-speed road rear shifters. So if you have SRAM shifter you can buy a cheap GX clutch derailleur: you won't need the extender, the tension will be much better, and you'll have a lot better chain wrap all through the cassette so shifting will be much improved.
    2. You can leave the inner ring on there instead of using spacers or shorter bolts, it works perfectly and just looks a bit crappy.

    Not a hack or bodge, but be realistic about what gearing you need. I find I don't spin out a 42×11 in the real world and 42×32 is about the same lowest gear as a 28 cassette on a compact chainset so I don't have problems on hills.

  13. Cheers Jon. It sounds like my bike "library" is quite similar to yours. I've actually converted three of my di2 road bikes, and my fat-bike to 1x. Using ultegra 6800 mid-cage derailleurs + wolf tooth roadlink, paired with either sram 11/36 road cassette or shimano 11/42 xt cassette. Oh, and also have the sram xd hub on a set of local made carbon disc wheels with 10/42 cassette. Love all of them and have been putting more miles on them that my 2x setups. I've been meaning to submit one of them for the bike vault… anyway, when I want to feel free and not think at all while peddling, 1x is a treat – easier or harder is all I have to consider when clicking that shift button 🙂

  14. I’m thinking about hacking the new Campy Super Record 12spd onto my gravel bike as a 1x, but I’m concerned that the entire country of Italy may erupt into flames, can you guys advise? Thanks!

  15. I went though all this exitement on my mountain bike 10 years ago, less bar clutter plus you save 200g from no front derailleur one less chain ring and no cable and outer. I just don't get the point on a road bike. You'll either be spun out every time you ride downhill over 45 kmh or grinding up every gradient over 10%.

    I have a 53-36 with an 11-36 mountain bike cassette on the back, works like a charm, massive range.

  16. Replaced rear derailleur with a low cost SRAM Apex 1 derailleur, 11 to 42 cassette, and kept the normal 50 tooth chainring. So far so good.

  17. Are we gonna get a video of you testing and tweaking this hack? 😁 you have me genuinely interested in doing this !

  18. Hello!!! I've got a Giant Contend SL 1 Disc 2018. This is an endurance road bike, remember that point, it is important.

    I got a Roadlink deraileur hanger extender and put it on. However instead of placing the extender downwards, I set it pointing back as far as it would go so it would clear bigger cogs.

    Now what I noticed straight away was that when I set it back as far as it would go, it set back further than what I noticed on other road bikes that did the same thing. My theory is that this was possible because it's an "endurance" road bike, and that because it's endurance, it's designed to come with a 32T cassette, which means it needs to clear cogs a bit bigger than a standard road bike. So I think the deraileur hanger of an endurance bike is set back a bit more than a standard road bike for that reason.

    Now before I purchased the Roadlink I knew that you could clear a 42T cog on a road bike with a medium-cage GSG road deraileur, which is what I have. So I ordered an 11-42T cassette and Roadlink. When I fit the Roadlink on, I saw it set back further than expected, and because it's set back more than a standard road bike, I'm able to clear the 42T cog with room to spare without a B-screw. I believe I should be able to clear a 44 without a B-screw and 46 with a B-screw, so I'll be trying that in the future.

    Moral of the story? If you have a standard road bike and a medium-cage GSG RD, you'll be able to clear a 42T with Roadlink. But if you have an endurance road bike, you should be able to clear more than 42T as endurance bike RD hangers are set back further than standard road bikes. Bet you didn't know that eh, quite exciting news isn't it?! There is another factor coming to play as to why I've got such large clearance, and that is chain length. A shorter chain pulls the upper jockey wheel away from the big cog, giving you more clearance. It also gives you the chain tension to run wide ranges, and also helps keep the chain on the chainring even without a narrow-wide. Just remember to put the chainring on the outer position as without a narrow-wide the chain will fall off the chainring when in the small cog if the chainring is in the inner position. When the chain is at it's loosest, you want the chainline to be straighter. The acute chainline from outer chainring position to big cog doesn't result in the chain coming off a standard chainring because there's a lot of chain tension when in the big cog.

    When installing, set the chain on the big cog, then shorten the chain until the chain is almost straight through the jockey wheels. Your bottom jockey wheel should be pointing more forwards than downwards. Basically when your chain is in the second biggest cog, the chain length should be such that the RD should be about in the position people normally have it when on the biggest cog. Know what I mean? Works a treat.

    Have I been helpful, I've been very helpful haven't I?

  19. The chain is slack because it seems to be too long. Follow Sheldon's method of big cogs on both end for chain length nirvana.

  20. I have converted my giant defy with roadlink extender and added a 11 40 shimano cassette. Worked all ok since August last year. Still have ultegra dual rings up front. Spacer needed when adding the mtb cassette.
    Works a treat and no roads need you to leave the saddle.

  21. Interesting video to show how to do it but if you have already got a dual chain ring and you do the work on the rear of the drive train but keep the front the same you will be able to climb anything when it gets tough with no downside. I can see that 1x is a benefit to manufacturers as it should be cheaper but can't see any to a user.

  22. Is it better to have the chainring on the outside of the cranks no matter what size chainring you use?

  23. How about a video for how to hack a 1X drive train off your road bike. I think that is what aquablue sport are in need of at the moment.

  24. Hacked mine. Standard Q ring, clutch rear Sram Force derailleur, 11-42 cassette. Down shift too fast while spinning you might drop the chain, and I don't know if a N/W ring will still that. Does everything just fine.

  25. I do it on my commuter bike. Even with big hills. It is an older bike with a 7 speed cassette, so I opted for a 40 tooth front ring, which gets me up most hills with the 28 in the rear. It is just easier to maintain, especially in the winter months.

  26. I have built up a Specialized roubaix frame bought off ebay with Sram 1X11, I live in North Yorkshire just outside the North Yorkshire Moors national park, lots off steep hills 20-25% in places. I'm 67 and fitted a 42 chainring and Sunrace 11-50 cassette., on these hills I can get up them – just, with 1X I am always in a the right gear for the different roads and constantly change gear easily when going up or down hills, no messing around finding the right combination of front and rear gears. I can get 23-28 max on the flat when I can find it without windy conditions, (for a short period).

  27. I recently converted my Kona Jake The Snake commuter bike to a 1×10. 42t Wolftooth oval chainring and 11-36 cassette. Switched out my 10-speed 105 derailleur for a 9-speed long cage Deore. It works like a dream.

  28. Run Di2 and you can use your road brifters with a mountain bike mech, no more worries about chain tension, and no need for a hanger extension.

  29. Is this a series you plan to update us on later? I'd love that, please let us know how it goes, maybe even some available upgrades. This concept is awesome.

  30. Can someone explain to me the advantages of a 1X setup on a road bike?

    My road bike came with a compact 50-34t up front and an 11-32t cassette, so by converting to 1X I'm just sacrificing the use of my small ring but for what gain? I can understand you'd save a bit of weight but surely that is only going to be useful if you're riding a lot of hills which you'll no longer be able to do because you've lost your climbing ring on the front. am I missing something?

  31. Jon, I think I speak for a lot of viewers when I say I'd love to see a "GCN behind the scenes" of your bike collection/garage/attic/shed 😀

    Given how many people are doing 1x conversions, why haven't Shimano come out with a dedicated road 1x groupset yet >.< ! With Ultegra RX and now the new MTB 1×12, I wonder if Shimano do have something on the way…

    I hacked my old commuter bike to 1×9 speed, it was absolutely great for commuting and a light bot of offroading – shame I sold that bike really. Building up a CX bike soon and that will certainly be 1x and I hope to convert my TT bike to 1x too.

  32. Hey John, one thing you forgot to mention is the chain line. I had to run a chainring with a slight offset to get the chain line as centered on the cassette as possible. If you run a chainring that doesn't line the chain up centered on the cassette, your are going to run into some serious cross-chaining issues when shifting at the high or low end! Great video as always! Cheers 🍻

  33. Short cage Chorus 11s fit a 32 just fine. I'm running 1x Chorus with a custom 14-34 cassette (bad knees) and a 40T elliptical chainring without a derailleur extender.

  34. My Specialized Sequoia came with 2×9. I had front derailuer noise that was impossible to get rid of. I converted it from drop bars to Jones Bikes H bars, 38 tooth chainring and 11-42 cassette. Had to replace the rear derailleur, brake levers and switch to a thumb shifter. It turned out fantastic. Rides very good.

  35. Hello GCN Tech,

    Interesting video this one, as always. I’m not interested in converting to a 1X setup, but you gave me an idea. Do you think that a derailleur hanger extender as shown in this video could convert a short cage derailleur (eg 2004 Campagnolo Centaur) to at least a medium cage equivalent, so I could use a wider range cassette without changing my derailleur?

    Thank you!

    André Cantin

  36. Wish I could hack my Rival x1 11 speed CX. I keep using it in winter on road. I just love my 2×11. Unless 12 speed can offer me that close ratio range.

  37. I am a total 1x convert. I use Sram 10spd shifter (road, tt, and mtb) with x5 rear derailleurs and 11-36 10spd cassettes on my road, time trial, cyclocross, and mountain bikes with different size chainrings, all 1x. One of the things I enjoy most about this set up is that I can swap cassettes, wheels, and derailleurs between different bikes. Simple, seamless, and efficient. What's not to love about 1x ?

  38. I have four 1x rigs. Love it. Three are converted from standard and one is the latest SLX 1×11 iteration. Not sure I'd convert my road bikes over though. I did, however, convert an old GT ZR road bike from drop bars to straight and put on a WickWerks narrow/wide 42t CX chainring with 11/36 in the back. Light and quick!

  39. A Shimano Zee rear mech can handle a 11/36 cassette without any mech extender and is lighter weight than a 105 mech. Hope this may come in handy for someone.

  40. WOW Please call me if you ever need your attic cleaned Jon.. If you have a Campy chorus 11 Speed derailleurs up there collecting dust.. Who know what one may find up in your attic..

  41. I have a 1X with full Ultegra , 11-40 sunrace cassette , wolf tooth hanger and 44T wolftooth chainring on a Kona Rove Ti. Works fantastic.

  42. How did it go? Any chain drops? I'm currently doing the very same hack but keeping the 13-29 cassette, until I find out whether it's enough or not.
    Great video!

  43. Perhaps somebody here can help me…I have a 14 speed road bike (Tourney A070 entry level Shimano groupset) and I'm thinking about changing the crankset and bottom bracket for a Sora model FC-R3000. Since both cranksets are 50/34, do I have to change anything else or is all there is to it?

  44. I use my 3x mountain bike on the road as a fitness tool and this is what I do. I decide before every ride which drivetrain I want to use. I keep it there for the whole ride and use all of the cassette in the back. This allows me to enjoy the ride, grind away and not worry so much about shifting. And of course I still have a 2x or 3x system if I want.

    To each their own and do what you want. The point is to get out and enjoy moving.

  45. I took the small chainring and downtube shifter off my 1987 Centurion Dave Scott, using washers to take up the slack on the chainring. I left the cassette as is, so it worked fine. Slight amount of crossover that I would imagine could have been dealt with somehow if I had felt like it.

  46. I use a full 105 5700 groupset with a N/W chainring up top and an 11-40 cassette on the back. Chainline was coincidentally perfect with the chainring on the inside of the (formerly double) crank. Works with standard road shifters but decided to swap out the rear mech for an old 9 speed XT one I had kept for spares – its old enough to have the same cable pull ratio

  47. I have a problem with 1x chainring … everything works fine .. but my chain comes off the 1x ring … that happens when I change gears or in the same gear cruising & it happens out of the blue. Any ideas ?


  48. Hi Jon! I've converted my older Giant TCX Pro to 1X. It's actually not too much of a hack (it's almost proper!) as I've gone with the new Ultegra RX Clutch RD and I have a couple of different Wolf Tooth narrow-wide chainrings to work with for different conditions. Although, my first two cyclocross experiences have been in slippery/sticky mud and I can't see needing more than the 36T I currently have up front paired with an 11-34 cassette in the rear.
    My question is… Do you have a hack for "locking out" the left shift/brake lever so it isn't so sloppy and floppy?
    I have some ideas on how to achieve this, but I'd like to hear your thoughts before I proceed. (I'm running Shimano 105 11 speed levers)

  49. hacked together a 1x with an early 80s panasonic frame/fork and a set of 29er mtb wheels. all i bought was the 700x23c tires which are cheap. best way for a mtb guy to try road biking.

  50. Please do a you set up for road bikes
    I'm setting up a giant tcr 1×11 I have an xo mt bike derailleur I was thinking of using
    Thanks for your insight

  51. In the days of the square taper bottom bracket you would have had an added advantage when going 1x: the possibility to adjust the chainline by using shorter spindles.

  52. Hello Jon and GCN. Would you say that a clutch derailleur for a 1x drive train on a road is NOT necessary? I've you been riding enough the set up of the video to get an opinion on this topic?

  53. Hello guys
    Now I want to convert to single drive train but I've 130bcd Sram red exogram.

    Could anyone provide me with a purchase link of the right chainring ?

  54. How likely is it that the chain will come off on normal roads without a narrow wide chainring ? Only comment if you've tried

  55. Coming into road biking from mountain biking, I’m used to riding single speed as well as 1x set ups. I quickly removed the 53/39 chainrings and frnt D, and have a single speed 47t ring on my 1×10 (12-25) I also am in phx,AZ, so the road riding is flat and way easier than the mountains. I’m actually surprised road bikers are still using 2×10,11,12 set ups. It really isn’t needed.

  56. I dumped my 3X ringset on my trike a few months back and will never go back! . I kept all my stock pieces other than 1x cankset&chainring. Total price was about $40. Total weight loss of bike was 2.0 lbs!
    PS: I noted some comments below where posters' kept stock big chainring. Dont do it! Spend a few bucks and get a 1x (thick/thin) chainring. It will save you some frustration.
    PSS: Vs swap out rear gears for a 32T+ big ring setup….or even a 10T small-ring setup ($$), this is what I did:
    For my daily training stomping grounds (flat), I run a 50T 11×32 setup…..when I decide to do some hill riding, I simply swap out the 50T chainring for a smaller chainring and all is good. Takes only a few minutes, and only costs the price of a second 1X ring!

  57. Are chainrings specific for the chain width? Or do all chainrings fit with all 7/8/9/10/11 speed chains?

  58. My wife has a roadie that we are thinking about converting to a 1X, since she really hates the front shifter and she only rides at moderate speeds on flat-ish terrain. When we first got the bike, we already replaced the rear drive train with a Shimano Deore XT long cage derailleur and a 11-32 9-speed cassette, so no need for the extender there. I guess all we need to do is finding a proper chain ring and removing the FD.
    I wonder if I really need a wide-narrow chain ring. Am I going to benefit from it in any way?

  59. Done this with my hardtail about 6 years ago. Too expensive. Stick with what you have until you go for a new bike that was one x developed.

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