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Cycling the South of Tajikistan

Cycling the South of Tajikistan


Over there, 500m away I’m so dirty I fell… While i was filming And the camera Slipped out of my hand And you may already know It fell into the river All our video material is gone From Tajikistan And the camera is gone too Which also sucks But i’m okay Some scratches Which hurt a bit On this camera we have some material Let’s see Have fun! Two weeks earlier In the summer 2017 We cycled through the Pamir mountains in Tajikistan In the first part of our trip we cycled from Kyrgyzstan And continued on the Pamir highway From the city of Murghab We left the Pamir Highway And went into the wild of the Pamirs In front of us is the Zorkul national park The wakhan valley And then the way into the capital city Dushanbe Over there are marmots A full line! 1,2,3,4,5,6 They are waiting for us To check the Zorkul Permits And we are almost on top of the pass Down there is the Zorkul lake Around 60km to go And we’ll camp there It would be good if we can make it There is the Zorkul lake And here An old military base Looks crazy There is a huge antenna And in the background Is Afghanistan That’s the reason for the military base The Zorkul lake Is 50% part of Tajikistan And 50% of Afghanistan The mountains is all Afghanistan We stop for today Made a bit less than we wanted So tomorrow a bit more, 66km Until we leave the zorkul area We have a 2 day permit, so tomorrow we have to leave But we’ll make it Now we have a nice view on the zorkul lake Godd morning We managed to wake up a bit earlier It’s 7A.M. i think We pack our stuff now It’s not windy yet I hope when we start There still will be no wind That it will start later. It will start definitely For sure Like in the last days It’s now about 20km Flat or just a bit uphill And then the last 40km in the Zorkul area Are downhill So i think we will make it That was the Zorkul lake Now we move on The Pamir river is floating into the wakhan valley We’ll cycle next to it for 100km now All the time downhill We arrived At the Pamir river, there it is Over there is the road The Pamir river is the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan So we are 50m away from Afghanistan And we could easily cross the river And go to Afghanistan Good morning, we are… Behind Kargush We’ve done 5km already Over there was a miliray base There was a checkpoint From there we came Somewhere there must be the road Up to the checkpoint We asked for a store at the checkpoint And they said no Then we asked if the have bread and they said yes And that they will bring it to the checkpoint And now we got some really nice breads Our food for… For today Because the next city is in 70km And the street is not so good We’ll see! This is the road into the wakhan valley Cows on the Tajik side And on the Afghan side, camels! Good morning We came yesterday to this nice hotel We are the only guests We have a really nice view On the village with all the trees Everything is so green It’s really beautiful This is how it looks like It was recently built Our room Two beds Yeah, nice Now we are packing our stuff Then we move on Through the wakhan valley From there we come There is the river pamir And in this valley Is the river wakhan, so it’s the wakhan valley And they both join to the river Panj I don’t know how to pronounce It’s floating in this direction. There we go now The pannier is broken The mount broke I try to fix it With a rope A little improvisation And then we’ll see Somewhen we can get a spare part But for now with a rope The gravel wants its tribute Now we need Michels engineering skills And he already Has a first solution for the pannier I think it’s not too bad With the rope We are in Shitkarv! And we have Tarmak! Where else when not in Shitkarv? Hello We are in Chorugh We arrived yesterday Quite exhausted We are now in the Pamir lodge We pitched our tent here It’s 5$ per night Really nice place Relaxed and at the edge of the city We’ll stay another night Tmorrow we’ll move on Today in the morning we started in Chorogh It was really nice in the Pamir lodge Maybe a little review on the Wakhan valley? The most i liked the transition When we arrived in the first big village Suddenly there were trees and everything was green Suddenly so many people And not just sand and dust It was exhausting to cycle against the wind all the time The wind is always coming from the west So if you start in Dushanbe Direction to Osh/Kyrgyzstan, you always have tailwind But we had wind from the front all the time But like Olga said The transition to the green That was very impressive In general all the small oasises So you enter a village, everything tuns green Everywhere huge trees And then you leave the village and everything is brown and desert Very impressive, very nice, great stage Now we see what’s up on the way to Dushanbe A river on the Afghan side Floating into the Panj And there you see how the colors are mixing Looks nice But grey is winning We just had a nice lunchbreak Had some bread and raisins And Now I will shave off my beard For the Turkmenistan Visa You should, to increase your chances, Be shaved They don’t like beards in that country So i will cut it off now Let’s see if that is a good idea This is it I did it! Pretty unusual But it was time What do you think? Yes it looks sweet With your long curled hair And no beard Road construction in Afghanistan They are… Building this by hand There they want to go, there is a road It’s really interesting They work on this side, to there And from this side they come from there Somehow and there is the road And here is also a road, but over there They are also working To there And then here again, there is a bit missing And there is a road again We are just thinking how the people came there I mean, here it’s closed And here it’s closed and in the middle is also nothing But they work there No idea, interesting In the middle Is somehow a little shelter with a fireplace? Crazy Good morning Here we camped We already made some good art of the climbing There is the road For today… 20km to the pass And 1300m in height. 700m we did yesterday What do you think? When we are at the pass? I calculated 3 P.M. when we start at 8 A.M. Good It’s 6.15 A.M. i think 8 A.M. is definitely doable I already packed the tent Now put the panniers on the bikes Then breakfast and then we move on 1km further Over there 500m away I’m so dirty I fell… While i was filming And the camera Slipped out of my hand And you may already know It fell into the river Our whole videomaterial is gone Tajikistan and also some party of Kyrgyzstan Since Osh, okay, then Kyrgyzstan… Might be okay But Tajikistan is all gone And the camera is gone too Which also sucks But I’m quite good Some scratches which hurt a bit Nothing seriously Good morning Here we pitched our tent yesterday Approximately 2km After i fell yesterday We went through a village and bought some food I’m good The wound is healing good, we cleaned it good I think it won’t be bad We are still a bit… Or maybe we… Accepted that our videomaterial is gone So we won’t get an oscar this year! But for next year we will have something new And then we will… Be nominated for an Oscar Yes, exaclty! Its really sad But we can’t change it, so we have to deal with it That’s how it is We’ll see! We pack now And then… In 10km is a… No wait… In 7km Maybe less, 3,4,5 There is a checkpoint And there we leave the GBAO zone So kind of the Pamirs The Pamir Mountains We leave it slowlyy behind us It’s 200km to Dushanbe now Last stage to Dushanbe! We are in Tavildara It’s quite modern here What stands out is that here are so many pictures of the president We are not too sure why Maybe it’s the hometwon of the president Over there he is again The President is always present! Also with the kids! Good evening Today cycled another day Again thought about the camera I think now we can… See it with a smile That something stupid like that happened to us And: That nothing else happened. That we are both fine There could happen so much more It could have been so much worse At this fast river… And i fell… I could also have fallen into the river Luckily just the camera But it’s so crazy, everyday… Something happens You never have a normal day, where you just cycle Have a nice lunchbreak, continue to cycle In the evening pitch up your tent No, something always happens! And it’s so fast! I cycled yesterday and within 1second The videomaterial of 1 month is gone You can’t do anything It’s crazy It’s 10.20 A.M. Our tent is still standing here Michel is… A bit sick… It got me The problem all cyclists have here A little food poisoning I don’t know from where. We ate the same things It’s okay, it’s not too bad We’ll see And we have 160km to Dushanbe Adn today we want to do 100km As is said yesterday Everyday something is happening! Today this 1:30 We made it to the mainroad now Michel is feeling worse It’s okay… Not so good and… We want to arrive in Dushanbe tomorrow Or latest the day after tomorrow Because of the Visa for Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan So we decided to try to hitchhike to Dushanbe So we arrive today evening We’ll see, we need to be lucky Because we have two fully loaded bicycles We need a big car going to Dushanbe We’ll see how long it takes That was a short lift The guys took us… 17 or 20km Better than nothing We got a lift We are in the back In some small van 30km Then the two women in the front There are two more hitchhikers They will go out then Then we can go in the front

25 comments on “Cycling the South of Tajikistan

  1. Shit happens. Glad you were ok. I thought maybe you would back up your footage to an external hard drive SSD at end of every day so you don't lose anything?
    You look soooooo much better without that beard. You really do.
    Maybe you become ill because of your injury to your leg – infection? Do you carry antibiotics?
    You are a great team. So fantastic to watch as well as the fabulous scenery.
    Maybe you got the chance to buy a new camera in Dushanbe.
    Thank you for continuing to share. Maybe next year is your year for the Oscar. Maybe a Palm d'Or instead.

  2. sehr beeindruckend euer steiniger Weg durch diese sehr strapazierenden Orte.
    die elementaren Dinge wie Brot zu haben, aber auch ein kaputtes Gepäckband wirken wie Himmel und Hölle.
    Man merkt auch, dass euch die Rastmöglichkeiten wirklich gut tun.
    Der Kamera würde ich keine Träne mehr nachweinen, Gesundheit ist wirklich oberste Voraussetzung für so ein Abenteuer.
    Gute Besserung dem Michel und weiterhin gute Reise egal ob mit oder ohne Bart 😀😘

  3. Bekomme direkt immer 2 Tage Fernweh, bei Eurern Videos!

    Wegen der Kamera .. einen Monat lang gefilmt und nie gesichert? Und nicht danach gefischt? Mit deinem Stock und vorne ein Spaghetti-Sieb oder sowas dran? Verstehe beides nicht.

  4. Du siehst ohne Bart immer noch so aus wie ich vor 30 Jahren..😁
    Wir, dh ich habe seinerzeit zwar nicht die (Photo)Kamera verloren, aber 9 Filmrollen,ein ganzen Monat weg,aber gut das dir nicht mehr passiert ist, dachte zuerst dein zweiter Zeh war gebrochen, sah so krumm aus…
    Fahrt ihr kalorienmäßig auf Pump?
    Wäre keine gute Idee, könnte ein Grund für die Magenprobleme sein.
    Was ich sehe ist zu einseitig und zu wenig,so sauber das Gebirgswasser auch aussieht, das kann in diesen Regionen täuschen.
    Habt ihre Kohletabletten?
    Gute Besserung und alles Liebe, bin im Geiste bei Euch!

  5. Another great video. Too bad about the camera but you came thru alright. You make a good pair and your videos are very realistic. Don't think my Trek 520 would make it thru that country. Take care and stay safe, Al

  6. 19:11 etz weißte, warum Rennrad Fahrer immer rasierte Beine haben. Genau deswegen. Gbt keine Entzündungen bei Schürfwunden u.a. Aber nun bist/warst ja auch rasiert, wenn auch nur teilweise und unter schmerzhaften Bedingungen 😉

  7. Es ist schon beeindruckend, was ihr an medialem Equipment mitschleppt. Etwas Schwund gibt es immer und es war nicht eure einzige Kamera! Wenn ihr an einem Tag soviel erlebt, wie andere in einem Jahr, dann passiert eben jeden Tag etwas! Weiterhin gute Fahrt und Gruß aus HB!

  8. Mein Gott Michl wie ungewohnt aber er wächst ja wieder einfach atemberaubend eure Reise bin ja schon von Anfang an hinter euch her und es wird nie Langweilig Danke Dafür und weiterhin Toi Toi Toi 👍👍🍺

  9. Excellent video, perhaps one of your best. I can tell you put a lot of work into making it. I think, perhaps, you fell because not having your beard changed how you balance 😉

  10. Very nice scenery and Olga was really funny. The marmots checking your permits and no Emmy for lost film. Its very good when you can laugh at adversity.

  11. Sorry to hear about the camera and food poison, shit happens, cycling is like this bad and good things are happening all at the same time, good adventure:)

  12. Moin Olga und Michael, wieviel Tage habt ihr gebraucht von Bischkek nach Duschanbe zu kommen? In Welchen Monaten wart ihr da? Ich bin zwar in Tadschikistan geboren und aufgewachsen, war nie in Pamir gewessen. Nach eurem Video habe ich Lust bekommen meine Heimat zu besuchen. Danke, dass Ihr mit uns hier teilt!

  13. Kleiner Tipp für spät. Habe gelernt dass man 'nicht zoomen soll'. 🙂 Sagen alle wenn man dann zuhause ist und mehr vor hat mit dem Material

  14. Euer Video hat in mir den Wunsch entstehen lassen, mit dem MTB Eure Route nachzufahren. Habe aber auf der Website des Auswärtigen Amtes gerade gelesen, dass 2018 eine Gruppe Radreisender überfallen und deren Mitglieder teilweise getötet wurden. Wie habt ihr die Sicherheitslage erlebt? Auch soll es unmarkierte Minenfelder geben…

  15. Great video Olga and Mikel… i understand that is frustrating what happen to you but you always have to watch the positive side of it… Just follow this unforgettable days

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