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Do Pros Ever Use Neutral Service Bikes? | GCN Tech Clinic

Do Pros Ever Use Neutral Service Bikes? | GCN Tech Clinic

– Welcome to the GCN Tech Clinic, where you send in your questions and hopefully I can help answer them so you can get riding or fix that annoying little niggle of a problem. So let’s crack on then, shall we? With the first question this week that comes in from Samir Cassim who says, “Hi Jon, I need some help. I have a GT grade carbon
with some tubeless wheels and I want to go tubeless, is there any continental cyclocross or gravel tires that can
be converted to tubeless?” The tires they were thinking
about are some Cyclocross Speed or the Cyclocross King. “Great show, thanks for the help.” Right Samir, I like your
idea of thinking there because the tubeless set
ups are pretty good, indeed. Now, unfortunately for you, those tires are not tubeless compatible because the bead of the
actual tire isn’t designed to work with a tubeless set up. So it’s no can do, I’m afraid. Now before people at home
start commenting and writing, you can do a ghetto tubeless hack set up. You can but like I say,
it’s not designed for it and the consequences of a failing tire, could be quite frankly
disastrous, terrifying. Not to mention, extremely dangerous so simply Samir, don’t
do it, don’t try it. Next up we’ve got a question
from Jack Ford, who says, he’s just got himself some new wheels and when they get out of the saddle, it sounds like the wheels
are rubbing on the frame. They were wondering whether
there was a lack of grease on the quick releases
and the contact point between the dropouts and
the quick releases too. So that rubbing sound, I very much doubt it’s actually coming from the quick releases
because they tend to make a bit of a clicking sound rather than a rubbing. So couple of quick things to do, is make sure you’re not
using tires that are too wide for your frames or brake
caliper’s clearances. So have a look and make
sure that basically, the tire’s not touching either
the inside of the chainstays or also the underside of the
actual brake caliper too. Failing that, have a check as well, to make sure that your
pads, of your brakes, are not set too close to the rim because when you’re climbing or putting a lot of effort through, the wheel or the frame can
tend to flex a little bit and in turn, giving you
that annoying rubbing sound. So just have a look at those two but it never hurts indeed, like you say, to put a little bit of grease
on a quick release skewer, as well as on the inside of the dropouts where the wheel sits,
in case you get a click. But as for that rubbing sound, I’m pretty sure your tires
may be touching somewhere so just have a look,
particularly like I say, if you’re using a tire
which is possibly too wide than what the actual frame or
brake caliper is designed for. Now Bernardo Dime, he’s
got a tire question for me. So can they fit a 23 or 25 millimeter tire on a Cyclocross bike
that’s currently fitted with a 33 millimeter tires and what inner tubes can they use? Can they use the existing
one for a 33 millimeter tire? That’s a good question, this because in the past,
Cyclocross riders and bikes, they used 28 to 30 millimeter tires and they were fitted on
to standard road wheels. So providing that your wheels don’t have super wide
internal measurements, then yeah, it’s absolutely
fine so just bare that in mind as for the inner tube selection, yeah, you will be able to get that existing tube inside
of the tire and the rim but it could well be an
absolute struggle and pain and it’s not gonna be perfect,
if it’s anything wider than a 18 to 25 millimeter tube. If you do try it, use
lots of talcum powder ’cause that’s your friend,
it’s ever so slippery and it’s gonna help basically try and get it in there a little bit easier. But really you wanna use
proper inner tubes for the job. Now propo90, they’ve got
themselves a clickey problem which nobody likes, so
they’ve got an issue with what they think is their crank set. Every time they spin it around, it clicks. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn’t so it’s not every time, is it propo? Anyway, it comes and goes
but most of time it happens, they feel like they’ve tried everything. Right okay, propo, you need to make sure that everything is
clean so there’s no dirt or grime or grit in between
any of the interfaces on your chain set and bottom brackets. So take it all apart and
give it a good clean up and then reassemble using
either grease, anti-seize or thread lock where needed or necessary. And hopefully that’s gonna
eradicate the problem. Failing that, and this is
something which can happen and sometimes people don’t actually spot or know where it’s coming from, it can be your front
derailleur gear cable, has slightly come through
and basically it’s clicking on the crank each time you pedal around and, of course, depending on
where your front derailleur is in the movement, so if
you’re on a little ring, maybe it’s not gonna be clicking, on a big ring maybe it will. So have a good look at that. Failing that put the bike in a work stand or certainly get of the ground and slowly, very slowly pedal
it forwards or backwards and actually look to make sure that nothing is rubbing
or touching anywhere, ’cause that could be giving
you that annoying click. Next up is a question from
santibabo panmanee, who asks, “I plan to upgrade my
groupset to shimano 105 di2.” Firstly, santibabo, that doesn’t exist yet so I do know what you’re
getting at though, you wanna go Di2, so it’s fine. “I went to my local shop and asked them, they said I need a
specific frame for Di2.” Do I really need a specific frame for Di2? Right santibabo, going to Di2, great move. I’ve never ever looked back on it. And the good new is, you
don’t need a specific frame for the job because of
actually some rubber, plastic covers that you can attach over the electrical wires of the Di2 and then they simply
self-adhesively attach to the underside of the
frame, the chainstay and any of those different tubes where the cable’s gonna rub underneath. Now as for batteries,
yeah you could go internal but like you say, that would
then require a Di2 ready frame. So you can get a water
bottle cage mounted battery. So its simply quite a long piece of metal that goes underneath
one of your bottle cages and then the battery and
assembly just mounts onto there and you’re good to go. Good luck with that one santibabo. Next up is a question form Erc Vider that’s particularly relevant
for this time of year because we are in the middle
of the Tour de France. So they ask, “I’ve never seen a pro use a spare bike from Mavic or Shimano neutral service. Are they even necessary
or are they present on a race just for sponsorship reasons?” Right, so yes they do use them. And most famously was stage
12 of the 2016 Tour de France where Chris Froome actually took to one because he had a crash, don’t
know if you remember this, but his right hand seat
stay actually got cracked, I think it was is right hand seat stay. So he actually took to
one of those Mavic bikes and then carried on riding
before his own team car, got to him so he could
carry on his own bike. And then back in 2010, Jens Voigt, he actually took to, he actually finished the
stage on one of those bikes, only I remember him saying something like, it was like riding on a child’s bike because it was the wrong size for him. Anyway, they are used and the reason you
don’t commonly see it is because generally the riders on them, will be a rider who’s in isolation. So likely they don’t have a
team car anywhere around them so a camera crew, they’re
not normally around either but believe me a few times
in each Tour de France or any major race, there is a rider who will end up riding one of
those neutral service bikes. So if you go to a race,
keep a close eye out because you never know and they’re quite easy to spot as well. Next up, a question from
Simon Morrissey, who says, they tried to remove the cassette from their Fulcrum Racing Zeroes and the cassette is gouged
into the freehub body and now they can’t
remove all the sprockets as there are burrs where
the cassette has dug in. Any thoughts why this has happened? Right Simon, well those
freehub bodies generally, they’re made of a softer
material than your sprockets so to keep weight down really because a steel freehub
body is gonna weigh a lot. So those tougher material sprockets, normally made out of steel, they wear slightly into
those freehub bodies when you’re kicking out the
watts, which I’m sure you are. So as you’re turning the
cranks and the cassette, basically it is beginning
to slowly indent in there. But it’s never gonna
go all the way through or certainly I’ve never seen that. As for trying to remove them, well, what you could do is get
yourself a flathead screwdriver and insert it in between the sprockets. Make sure that the sprocket
you’re trying to remove, is not attached to another sprocket because some sprockets come on like three or two stuck together. So put it in there and
gently try and twist that screwdriver like you’re
trying to undo it or tighten it and you should be able
to slowly prize it away from the other sprockets. Failing that get yourself a blunt object, so not a screwdriver really because that could well
give a little bit of damage to the rear side of the sprocket but from the non-drive side,
put a blunt object through and then gently tap it with a hammer and hopefully that’ll actually force it off of the freehub body. Now to remove those
gouges or indentations, you can gently file them
away but don’t go overboard because otherwise you could
well damage the splines of the freehub body so just
be very gentle with that. Now Victor Choi, they’ve got
themselves a cassette problem, “I was wondering if you have
a fix for me”, Victor asks. When I’m in my easiest gear, a 28 tooth, and in the smallest chain
ring and when I backpedal, the chain drops down 5 gears. The groupset is brand new and
has been adjusted properly. I took it to a local
shop but they don’t know why it drops down a few gears. It only happens in the easiest gear. Right then Victor, it does in fact, sound like an issue with your chainline but without seeing the actual bike, it’s hard to certainly diagnose
what the problem could be. Also make sure that the chain’s okay, there’s no stiff links in it whatsoever because sometimes on
those extreme sprockets, that’s where something like
that really gets noticed. But ultimately, Victor,
and I don’t want to sound like I’m passing off the question, why do you want to backpedal? You only go forwards if you pedal forwards so there we are but I do
understand the frustration because you want the bike
to be working perfectly. You know, either way it’s going but it could well be that
chailine, like I said. Good luck, Victor. Okay final question this week is from Charles Fitzpatrick, who asks, “How do I know when rims
have gone past safe to use.” Good question on this one Charles. Right, grab yourself something flat so a really good ruler and
then get yourself a section of the braking surface and then from top to bottom of that section,
just hold the ruler against it and what you want to make sure is that that rim is as flat as
possible against the ruler. If it’s showing signs of wear so anything more than a
fraction of a millimeter or any concaving of the
rim then it’s likely that that rim is going to need replacing. Also have a really good look too because when rims do become very thin, they do start to crack. It’s happened to me in the past and it’s not something that’s ideal because after all those wheels
do a pretty important job for you on your bicycle rides. Now importantly as well to remember, is that some aluminum rims actually, have tiny little pinhead indentations in the braking surface
and they’re designed to essentially disappear or become one with the
rest of the braking surface when you finally worn
out that braking surface and it’s time for a new rim. But like I say, that’s only on
some aluminum rims out there so if you don’t see them,
don’t panic and think, oh no, I need to go out and
buy new wheels straight away. Pop along to your local
bike shop, if in doubt and get them to have a look. Right I do hope that
you’ve enjoyed this episode of the GCN Tech Clinic
where we do our very best to answer your technical problems. If you’ve got one for me, leave it in the comment
section down below, using the hashtag on screen right now. And hopefully I’ll be
able to answer it for you so you can go out on your bike and keep smashing out those watts. Now do remember to like and share this video
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