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Freewheel Removal & Installation

Freewheel Removal & Installation


In this video, we’ll cover how to remove
and install the threaded freewheel. Hello, Calvin Jones here
with Park Tool Company. Here’s a quick run-through of what we’re
going to do: For removal, we’ll engage the freewheel tool and turn it counter clockwise until the freewheel is removed. For installation, we’ll lubricate the threads, and thread it onto the hub. We’ll fully seat it with a chain whip, or we’ll use the force from the pedals. It’s a pretty simple process
as long as you have the right tool for the job. But before we talk tools, we’ll note that
not all rear sprockets remove the same way. There’s another cog system called the cassette and the procedures in this video are for the
freewheel systems, not the cassette systems. If you’re not sure what you’ve got, watch this other video
to help you determine which is which. Tools and supplies needed
are a large adjustable wrench, grease or anti-seize to lubricate the threads, and the correct freewheel removal tool. Park Tool offers removal tools to fit most freewheels. However, there will be some older models
where no Park Tool removal tool is available. Freewheel manufacturers have different tool fit designs,
and here’s how to tell which tool you’ll need. Remove the wheel from the bike. Now fully remove the axle nut or if you have a quick release skewer,
remove the skewer and skewer nut. Next we’re going to find our tool fitting so look down the center of the freewheel
and look for any splines. Splines run inward and can be difficult to see but if you see splines,
you’ll know you need a spline type tool. Now count the number of splines. If there are 20 splines, use the FR-4. If there are 12 splines,
check the brand of the freewheel. To be clear, we’re not looking
at the brand of the hub, just the freewheel. If it’s a Falcon brand freewheel, use the FR-7 If it’s not a Falcon brand freewheel, or if there is no brand name, measure the outtermost diameter of the tool fitting. It will likely be 23mm, and if it is, use the FR-1.3 There is a much older discontinued
Shimano standard that is 20mm. See the manufacter for the correct freewheel tool. If there are no splines,
then look for a notch type tool fitting. Count the number of notches. Also measure the diameter
from outer edge to outer edge. If there are two notches and the tool fitting measures approximately 25mm in diameter, use the FR-2. If there are four notches and the tool fitting measures approximately 24mm in diameter, use the FR-3. If there are four notches and the tool fitting measures approximately 40mm in diameter, use the FR-6. And if there four notches and the tool fitting measures approximately 32mm in diameter, use the FR-8. First, remove the rear wheel, and then the axle nut, or if you have a quick release,
remove the skewer nut. Inspect the freewheel and
select the correct type of remover. Our first example is a notch type. Notch type freewheels have
poor designs for tool engagement, so we will use the axle nut or quick release skewer to hold the tool aligned and snug to the freewheel. Turn the tool counter-clockwise. It may take a good bit of force
to loosen the freewheel from the hub. After it’s loose, remove the axle nut or skewer nut Continue to unthread the freewheel. For freewheels using the spline-type tools, you do not need to hold the tool in place with the nut because of the deeper engagement of the freewheel. An alternate method is to use a bench vise. Tighten the tool in the jaws of the vise. Grab each side of the rim and turn the rim
counter-clockwise, as seen from above. The basic process for installation is first, apply a healthy coating of lubricatioin to the threads of the freewheel. Lack of lubrication encourages threads to seize, making it very difficult or impossible to remove. Grease is acceptable in this application, but a longer lasting and more durable option would be an anti-seize compound such as ASC-1. Being careful not to cross thread,
rotate the cogs to engage the thread. Stop if there is resistance and
double check your alignment. Inspect that the hub is centered in the freewheel. If the axle appears off-center,
the freewheel is cross-threaded. Continue threading the freewheel clockwise by hand
until the freewheel feels fully tight. If available, use a chain whip to fully seat the freewheel. If you don’t have a chain whip, install the wheel on a bike, hold the brake lever and push on the pedals to seat the freewheel. The process is complete, but before you go,
a few quick things… First, if this video helped you out,
please give it a thumbs-up. It makes a big difference, and helps get this information out to more people. So thanks for that. Now back to the repair: Be sure to check your shifting – both the limit settings and the index adjustments. This other video walks through the whole process. Also, it’s a good time to check your chain for wear. The last thing you want is your new freewheel
to get damaged from a worn chain. And finally, if you want any more information on any of the tools used in this video, head over to ParkTool.com Thanks for watching!
And again, if this video helped you out, please give it a thumbs up,
tell your friends about it, and of course, subscribe to our channel
for more repair help from Park Tool.

40 comments on “Freewheel Removal & Installation

  1. So I’m trying to remove the flywheel but no matter how hard I try I can’t get it to budge. I even tried removing the bearings thinking maybe they’re jammed or something, but it still is stuck. Any suggestions? Is it rusted beyond repair?

  2. Man, I've learned so much from the Park Tool channel. I gladly purchase their tools to fix and maintain my bikes. Thanks Calvin!!

  3. My freewheel is not coming off. Tried both methods and destroyed two FR-3 tools. In the process damaged the notches on the freewheel. Have any other ideas to remove the freewheel? Maybe a tool that can bite into the damaged notches?

  4. I can not remove rear cassette. I have the right tools but can not remove the cassette. Its so tight . I try to remove the cassette of few different wheels ( all are Shimano ) but problem remain. I used WD40 but it does not helped. Must not be so difficult. What could be the reason !? Would you please suggest me what to try/do.

  5. great video. Most videos focus only on the newest model of whatever they are showing. Knowing how to deal with the myriad of older model is essential if you are not a mechanic that deals with high end bikes day in and out.

  6. If you don't have a chain ring and Godzilla didn't do the last service, you might be able to use a tea towel instead. Wrap it around the big cog and hey presto 😁✌

  7. Just the right guy to ask the question, I have a couple of the park PRS4W bike stands but even though i close the jaws very tight on
    sometimes the frame or the seat post the bike will move and is still quite loose in the stand and moves. How can i correct this problem please.

  8. I have a Sunrun freewheel cassette I thought the tool I had should work it seems to fit seems to have the right amount of spines around 12 but it simply won't move in any direction my guess is the tool I have doesn't reach all the way in and may need a different one. I'm having no luck getting the tool I have to work and now I don't know which one I need can anyone recommend one for it, please?

  9. I don't understand why you only use the removal tool for loosening but then a chain whip is shown for tightening?! Can't you tighten it with the same removal tool + wrench that was used to loosen lol?!

  10. MANY MANY THANKS, I have a very old bicicle, and i din't know what xtractor i needed, i need a FR-2, thanks again!

  11. Help Calvin!!!! Purchased a ekit. Installed freewheel and noticed it came w/no lockring! So there is a bit of thread showing. Since I have no lockring how do I remove the freewheel? Can't unthread it cause that just activates the freewheel feature.On the freewheel is a email address: www.cnata.com

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