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Benefits of cycling

How To Fix A Snapped Chain & Gear Cable On A Ride | EMTB Trailside Hacks Part 1

– E-mountain biking is a
great way of getting out there and exploring the local trails, but unfortunately with anything mechanical you’re going to run into
a few mechanical problems along the way, so today’s
video can take a look at all those common e-bike problems and how we’re going to rectify
them on the side of the trail. (upbeat music) Now probably the most
common problem that I’ve had since I’ve been riding
e-bikes is snapped chains. Usually, these are caused
by either bad maintenance on your chain or bad technique
when you’re changing gear or you’ve dumped it into turbo mode and you’re not in the
right gear so you crunch through your gears and
bang the chain snaps, and it’s lying on the
floor, you’ve got no drive. This is how we’re going to fix it. So the tools you’re going to
need to fix a snapped chain are pretty basic, just
a chain tool itself. You can get one built into a multi-tool but I tend to favor a proper chain tool. You just get that little
bit more leverage from it, and then just a quick link, as well, just these little quick
links can make rejoining a snapped chain a piece of cake, really quick, really
lightweight bit of kit you should have in your
riding bag at all times. When I snap a chain, I always like to have a quick inspection of a chain just to see how it’s
actually snapped itself and how many links are damaged. Usually, it’s just pulled a pin out and it’s simply pulled apart, but sometimes if it’s jammed in the frame or it’s jammed around the chain rig, it can actually twist
and damage a few links meaning that if you were to rejoin that chain it’s going to skip around and possible jam-up again. So just a real quick
inspection of the chain itself is really worthwhile. So before we attempt any work on an e-bike and its drive chain,
it’s vitally important you turn that motor off
because if it engages when you’re messing around with it, you not even going to have any fingers to do any work on your bike. So when it comes to replacing
a chain on an e-bike first thing you’ve got to do is thread the chain through the derailleur
and around the cassette. Now, a lot of newer school e-bikes are going to have a one by system on there so you’ve just got a clutch
derailleur on the back. Now Shimano have a clutch system on there which operates just by a
lever turning it on and off, and SRAM actually have
a pin that you can push. You actually move the
derailleur cage upward, push the pin in with a little
padlock function on there, and it will actually hold
the derailleur there. Just make sure you’re
turning that clutch off otherwise you’re constantly
going to be battling against it when it comes to rejoining the chain. So nice little tip when
it come to mounting the chain on the front chain ring, is just to push it on to the teeth itself. Just get it set in there nice and tight then you can literally turn the crank to make sure
that chain comes through. That way, you don’t have
to adjust your front chain guard or anything, so
chain should just come through nice and easy and then
it’s just a simple case of grabbing the excess of the chain and pulling it tight and rejoining it. Now there’s a couple of ways
we’re going to rejoin it. The best way to repair a snapped chain is by using a quick link to rejoin it. Now all I’ve done is remove
the two damaged links from the chain and created two blunt ends. Then simply, it’s just a
case of pushing a quick link into each opposing side of the chain making sure it’s lined up. Now most of these can
be directional as well, so just make sure you’re actually installing them in the right way. So there you go, they’re ready to go. Direction arrows the right way. And then it’s just a simple
case of pushing them together. You just line them up, make
sure you push them through. Now they’re lightly held together. Now it’s a simple case
of getting that link to the high point of the
drive side of the chain to click it back together so just wind it through the mech nice and slowly then finally at the
bottom, give the cranks a good push down and you hear it engage that means the quick links already to go. Flip your bike back over. And on your way. Now a little bodge for you. If you haven’t got a quick link, you can actually rejoin the chain by pushing the original pin back in to it. Now it isn’t a great way of fixing a chain and it probably will break, especially over a period of time. So it is purely a get
out of jail free card. So when it comes to rejoining a chain without a quick link,
the best way to do it is to remove the damaged
links from the chain and then have two fresh
chain links ready to rejoin. So when it comes to rejoining the chain it’s best to just get a
lot of slack in the system. Maybe remove it off the front chain ring or you can even use a third hand, which is basically a
little thing that hooks in each chain link and
pulls the chain together so you’re not constantly
battling the strength of the rear derailleur. Now we just line it up, clip it in, and that should hold. Now what we’re doing is just
winding that pin through to the outer plate and
when you feel the contact or the resistance get harder on the handle it’s worth just checking
the pin is nicely lined up because if you push it
through it can actually push that plate apart so
just go gentle when you’re doing this ’cause this can really break the whole rejoining of the chain, so just go gentle on that and it should see it rejoin nicely. So there you go. I’ve just replaced that pin, just give it a quick wiggle
to make sure it’s not stiff and going to create a
stiff link in the chain. If it is stiff just apply
a little bit of pressure side to side on that
link, and it should see it running nice and free. Then it’s just a simple
case, winding it round, getting on your way, but you need to go super careful with this one ’cause it’s not a permanent fix. (upbeat music) When you’re riding e-bikes you
tend to shift gear a lot more than you do on a regular trail bike. I mean, you’re going up and down the gears for big climbs and descents
so snapped gear cable can be quite a common problem you’re going to experience out on a ride. Now, it isn’t necessarily a game-ender. It just can mean that
your ride can be a little bit more harder than
it would do if you had your whole spread of gears. You’re going to be stuck
in your hardest gear. Now this little hack is going
to make things a bit easier. Now first up, I’m just going to
flip my bike over, upside down. I’ve placed some branches
underneath the grips just to give a bit more
space to make sure I’m not scratching up my
controls and brake levers, things like that. I’ve also turned the power off as well, so just make sure that
motor isn’t going to kick in whilst I’m working on the drive chain. Now the only tools you’re
going to need for this little hack is going to be a multi-tool to undo the derailleur clamp bolt and just a zip tie. So first up, I need to undo
the derailleur clamp bolt. So I’m just going to undo that. If you’ve got a little
cable crimp on there, you just need a set of pliars or sometimes if you give it a quick, shift pull you’re going to remove that end cap, so you just need to unthread the cable all the way out and out of
the cable port in the shifter. Then all we need to do, is
remove the outer gear cable from the rear mech and
then thread the inner cable through where the outer cable was housed. So just finding that little hole, feeding the cable through,
pull it all the way through. And then you just need
to get this inner cable into the mech cable clamp bolt as well, so make sure that’s
nicely located in there. Just apply a bit of pressure to there and you should see the
mech move up the cassette. So we’re just applying a bit of pressure. What you really need to
do, just pull that across till it’s in kind of a mid-ranged gear. So if you’re on a ten speed block, maybe aim for like the
fifth cog on the cassette. And once it’s there, what you need to do is just simply tension in that gear to make sure it isn’t jumping in and out, you’ve got enough cable tension on there. And all you need to do is just nip that cable tension bolt up the the mech is going to
be held in a nice gear that’s going to make
your ride home a lot more easier that if you’re going to
be stuck in that harder gear. Now a lot of people think you can adjust the stop screws on the derailleur but if you get lucky with those you might be able to
adjust it one or two gears up the blocks but you’re
going to run out of adjustment pretty quick, so you need
to get the inner gear cable in there and get that mech nice and tight and pull the gear higher up the block. Now as you can see with this hack, there’s a lot of excess
gear cable flailing around so I just like to wrap
it around my fingers, just get it somewhere where
it’s stored out they way. You know, you could either
zip tie it to a frame. Just make sure it isn’t
going to go in the wheel and cause further damage so just get it nicely wrapped up. Maybe combine it with
zip tying the outer cable for the gear cable as well. Just get that nice and
tidy to make sure it isn’t going to interfere with
anything what so ever. So there you go. Really hope you’ve enjoyed today’s video on all those common trail side mechanicals and how you can fix them. Hopefully, not going
to see you broken down at the side of the trails. But if you want to stick
around and checkout the worst mechanical breakdown ever, the broken mech hanger, check this one out down here. Drop some comments in the box below about any trail side
fixes you guys have got. Give us a thumbs up if you enjoyed it. Don’t forget you can subscribe to EMBN by clicking on the globe in
the middle of the screen. See you in the next one.

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