Living Jackson

Benefits of cycling
How To Install: A Rear Motorcycle Fender On a Triumph Chopper

How To Install: A Rear Motorcycle Fender On a Triumph Chopper


Tyler: Hey,
it’s Tyler with Lowbrow Customs. Today, we are in my home workshop
in my garage and we’re going to be mounting a fender on
this unit triumph bobber which is Todd Mueller from Lowbrow,
our motorcycle tech who many of you may know at least from
YouTube and other places. This is his bike and winter’s coming
and we’re going to get this fender mounted up get this bike out of my
garage and make room for my projects. The fender we’re going to be
mounting is a Gasbox 16-inch fender. The 16 inch refers not the tires,
not the outside diameter of the tire but the rim size
so this is like a 16 by 5 inch or something tire that Todd
has mounted on here and this fender has the profile and radius
so it’ll fit quite nicely. Other things we’re going to be using,
well, these parts here from Gasbox. These are machined fender strut
lowers or you could use them for anything but they’re great for making
custom fender struts, custom sissy bars anything like that and it’s
a perfect fit for half-inch rod, it makes it really nice easy finish
look, very helpful when fabricating. We’ve got our Lowbrow
Customs DIY strut kit, which we’ve made for
a dozen years or more and then some different
tabs, this quarter inch thick steel deal lower
fender mount tab, which is also useful for all
types of things and we also have a couple of
our fender mount tabs for ribbed and curved fenders
and we have different styles and varieties
of these available. What I can tell you about these fab parts is that they’re
huge time savers. I’ve got my old Atlas
craftsman lathe over there. I can make any bungs and do
make all sorts of things. However,
the amount of time it takes me to turn drill tap all kind stuff each individual bung, it’s way more cost effective to spend a few
dollars on a bung. Same thing making some
of these this bracketry. While I can do it in my shop
here, it takes way more time than the 20
bucks or whatever this bracket costs that I
personally spent a lot of time designing and put
a lot of thought into it. They work well,
they save a lot of time and frustration and it’s
a lot of fun to be able to figure out how to use
these components to mount your fender or finish
that bike of your dreams. Follow along, I’ll show you one way
to do it and we’ll see how it goes. The first thing you want to make sure
is completed before you go to mount your fender is that
your wheel for one that it’s the tire you’re going run. Unless you have a ton of gobs of
clearance from your fender to your tire, you really need to make sure
this is the tire you’re running. I just checked the air pressure
and inflated this to 30 PSI, make sure that we are around at least
the pressure it will be run at. Todd delivered this bike to me
as a roller already and he’s got the rear wheel spaced left
to right inside the frame. That’s also extremely important. You can see he’s got the chain
on here, that’s also useful one. He used it to make sure
his wheel was aligned properly and two,
the first thing we’re going really do is cut a chain
relief in the fender because this chain runs so
close to the tire and it would definitely hit
the fender and when we’re centering that fender
and getting ready to mount it,
I want to make sure that the chains not pushing on it,
we’re not fighting anything. You want that fender to be able to be adjusted and moved
wherever we want it. To prepare I went ahead
and I took a piece of hose. This is a one inch outside
diameter piece of hose. I’ve used a chunk of old
garden hose in the past, I’ve even used a normal 530 drive
chain laid across the tire. That gives you really tight
fender clearance though. The purpose of this
is to hold the fender in place,
it gives you the proper even spacing instead of
trying to hold the fender up while your tack welding things. It just doesn’t work. I just used a little bit of
duct tape, which I ran out of. I just want some electrical
tape, made sure it was nice and secure,
the tube is centered on the tire and that
gives us just a little support when we’re
mounting the fender. The first thing I’m going
to do to figure out where to put this chain relief is
slide the fender in place. Now, there’s a lot of
different ways you can mount the fender as far as how short
or how long it is et cetera. I had a discussion with
Todd since this is his bike and this is what I
would do with it as well. I’m going to basically
rotate the fender forward until it is just shy of
the bottom frame rail. The purpose for this is that
say, the bike is finished and it’s four
years from now and for some reason you ride
up a curb or you’re are going over rough
terrain or something. You don’t want that fender to
be hanging below your frame because that’s going get
smashed, right into your tire. I like to keep that fender
up above the frame rail. I’m just eyeballing it
right now and I just slide it and it’s
sitting on that that piece of tubing and I’m
not worrying about side-to-side location
or anything now. I basically just move
it where it’s a little above that bottom of that lower tube. That’s essentially where
that fender is going to sit. We’re not going to cut it shorter. You could if you want
your fender really short, you can cut it off whatever. This is going to be run full length. With the chain relief,
you got to think when you’re riding that chain flexes
quite a bit not necessarily under load when you’re
on the throttle, but when you back off that whole
chain really undulates. I want to give a good
safety margin for sure. Probably an inch and a quarter maybe
over the chain just to be safe. What I’ll end up doing is just
marking out a profile here and then taking the fender
off and on the bench, drawing the line out little bit.
That’ll give me a cut line. Right now I’m just roughly getting
an idea of where this will be. The other thing I’ll point out is
it’s you don’t want a sharp corner. I’m going to cut this with
just an angle grinder, but you don’t want to leave
a sharp point in there. You want to have
a nice radius because if you have a sharp
edge it will crack. That’s where vibration
will end up leading into a crack and cause
you a lot of grief. At the top of this I’m going
to actually match the angle of that chain as well
just to follow that line. Basically,
that’s all we’re going to do. I’m going to cut this over far enough
that it’s about equal with the tire. The chain does have a little
side play in it too, but in this case the tire so close
that it would heat that before it would hit any of the remaining
fender and we’ll end up radiusing this corner a little
too just on the belt sander. Now I’m going to take the fender,
throw it on the bench, draw my line and go ahead and cut
that relief, clean it up. It should only take
10 minutes at most and then we’ll move on
to mounting the fender. One thing I think is worth
mentioning to you guys, this is just as of late,
any time I’m grinding cutting metal in with dust, I’m making sure
I pick this little guy up, a face shield and also just
some of the 3M little masks. I’m not going to the mask for
this because it’s such a small amount but when I had a CAT scan
recently from a motorcycle rack, and there was stuff in my lungs
they called broken glass, but it just means there’s something
in your lungs that’s foreign. I’m sure it’s abrasive grinding
compound and dust and whatnot. I do this as you know as a hobby,
not full-time or anything and it still is enough, but, well, I better
get this to keep that dust out of my face a little more wear
masks et cetera and I just mention that because it’s minor deal to
have that little bit protection. Really for me, I don’t want end up having some frickin
lung problems when it could be stopped so easily and I
don’t but I don’t want to get there. These days I always
wear hearing protection. This also helps just keep
all the grit and stuff off your face keeps little
cleaner, but it’s something I thought worth
sharing for those of you out there who are doing
metalwork in your garage. I’m going go ahead
and mark this line out. I’m just going to use
a standard grinder with a cut-off wheel
holding it at the angle that’s equal to the arc of the fender and I’m going to cut
this out real quick. The one thing this where I
want to keep a larger radius, I’m going just cut a flat
across and then I will probably use this little
guy, little die grinder, pneumatic die grinder and get
that radius in there. You could use a dremel, you could
hand file it, there’s lots options. Again, I don’t want to cut
and have a hard corner there because almost for sure we’ll
get a crack there eventually. [music] I’m going to clamp this to the table
so that it doesn’t move so much. [music] All right. I got that.
That initial cut went real quick. This is a piece of scrap. I used that die grinder to
clean up that big radius and to just take the burr
of the edge off real fast. I’m going to take this over. I’ve got a belt sander in the garage
here which is a very useful tool. I’m just going to go
ahead and hit the face of this,
smooth that all out really nice. Give a little radius there
and that should be good to go. You could also use a die grinder–
I’m sorry, angle grinder with a flap disc on it which is essentially
overlapping sheets of sandpaper. You can also just do this by hand. Take a file and smooth it
out, sand it. There’s lots of ways to do it. I’m using the tools I have
but there’re both faster nicer ways to do it and slower
nice ways to do it as well. I’ll go ahead and clean this
up and get back to mounting it. [music] I went ahead and cut
the chain relief. I actually widened it a little
bit more, brought it inbound a little bit more than in my
original line and it seems fine now. The nice thing, once all the mounts
are done we’ll take a look at that again and you could always give it
a little more breathing if necessary. Because I was going to be working in
this area, I went ahead and pulled off the oil tank and just flipped
the seat up out of the way. Gives myself a little
more room to work. Leaving the battery box
in place even though I’ll remove it once I get
further along to weld. I’m leaving that and the chain
and things in place because it’s easy to forget what parts aren’t on
the bike when you’re working at it. When I go to make fender
struts, et cetera, I just want to keep
everything together. That’s necessary to make sure I
don’t have any interference issues. The fender,
we slid it in place here and then threw some electrical
tape around the fender. It’s not super secure but
it holds it pretty snug so I can actually shift it left
to right in such as needed. A good way to tell
when the fender center from the back you can
just visually look but it’s also using
your fingers to feel the gap that it feels
that it’s the same. It’s a quite accurate way to do so. You can fancy and try and measure
everything if you want but honestly, if you start
something long enough and you’re not sure if it’s center or not
it probably is, meaning if you really can’t tell but
it’s pretty centered here. I’m feeling above the cut area
obviously just at the fender wells. This is pretty much
where it needs to go. I’m going to do a couple
of things to help me visualize for the first
mount, I’m going to do is this upper mid
fender mount here which is going to be welded
to the seat post tube. We’re going to use
this low brow curved fender mount for curved fenders. Something I already did here
as well is real quick I just took a little bit off of
these bungs on my belt sander. The radius of different
fenders, different types of fenders will vary of course. These bungs sat pretty
nice but there’s a little gap so I just took a bit
of that material off. They sit real nice and flat. When I weld them, I’m not
feeling a large gap or anything. To figure out where my bracket is
going to go side to side, I’m going to give myself some visual
reference points, a really easy one. It’s simply going to be to mark
the centerline of the seat post. Sorry, of the seat cross member. Using just a standard
tape measure in between the frame rails I’m at
seven inches exactly. Three and a half inches. I’ll go ahead and make
a sharpie mark. That’s just a good
indicator showing me right where the center
of that tube is. Actually,
that brings up a good point. Something with certain
bikes, like these old Triumphs,
you have to keep in mind is that the wheel isn’t necessarily centered perfectly
between the frame rails. On a Triumph,
the tire’s actually shifted slightly away from the chain side. The decision you have
to make is do you center the bracket to the fender
or to the frame? Or do you split the difference? Sometimes making something
that is perfectly centered will actually
look like it’s off. What I tend to do
personally is default to where I just think
it looks the best. Even if you measure and it’s
off by an eighth of an inch, if it looks better there,
that’s where I would go for. Before I get ready to actually
position this and then tack weld the bungs to the fender I’m going
to go ahead and mark this bracket. It comes over-length. This part is longer than
need be potentially, so it could be used for
a variety of fitments. What I’m going to do,
I’m going to a lap weld where this bracket it’s going to come up under that
cross tube and I’m going to weld on both sides of it.
It’s a very strong weld. You could always cut it and butt it
to the face of the tubing, but in this instance, the fender is close
enough there, it’s right at the bend. It wouldn’t be nearly as strong,
it’d be a total pain in the butt. I’m just going to go ahead
and give myself a sharpie line. Now I know this is going to
be cut off and this piece I’ll go ahead and just clean up
and get ready to tack weld. I’m going to tack weld
the bungs to the fender, which will hold the bracket
in place and then I will go ahead and tack
weld the bracket to the frame,
make sure I get probably three good tacks on everything,
move on to the next mount and then the bungs
will be finished welded to the fender when
it’s removed and then the brackets will be
finished welded then as well. All right,
I’m going go ahead and mark my lower tab as well,
get that cut prepped at the same time I’m doing
the upper tab, that way I can get both
tack welded in place. I’m going to be using one of these
Lowbrow lower fender mount tabs. Quarter-inch steel. What I’m going to do
here is add a half-inch long five 5/16 18 threaded bung. The way this fender will end up
being mounted is all mounting points. We’re going to weld
bungs to the fender. The brackets will bolt directly
into those bungs, and there’s no hardware on the inside of
the fender because otherwise, you can drill holes in your
fender and through bolts or even run the hardware
through the fender into a bung. I don’t like that because I’ve
done that before and then I’ve been on road trips or cruised around
locally, it doesn’t even matter. If you have one of those
bolts back out and start rubbing your tire,
runs a groove into it. Now, you’ve got to
pull your whole rear wheel to tighten up your fender mount which is just a ridiculous amount of
work that you shouldn’t have to do. This style of mounting gives you
easy access to all your bolts. Lock tight when you
do final installation anyway, but you could throw a wrench on it if something
is loose and tighten it right back up
and it’s really easy. We removed the battery
box here because I knew it wasn’t going to be in
the way for this tab and it was in the way for me
to visually see how long I needed this tab and also
where to center it. I’m going to do a similar style
weld that I’m going to do for the upper tab and it’s going to
be a lap joint where this butt up under the tube and then it’s
going get welded on both sides, very strong and it will be hidden
behind the battery box anyhow. This is pretty straightforward. I need to seat the bung
flat against the fender, slide it up until
it’s butting against this cross tube,
and all I’m doing now is marking the tab so I know
where I want to cut it. It’s the proper length
and ready for welding. One thing I might mention is
that I’m going to position that bottom tab in this direction so
the hardware is easy to get to. If it flipped this
way, the bung will be a little higher up on the fender,
but it’s going to be a lot more
difficult to really get a wrench in there
and remove that bolt. I made a little mark here where
I’m going to just take, I’ll draw a line on there, give myself
a little better visual reference. I’m just going take
the grinder cut that to the length I need
it, deburr it and get the welder set up
and get ready to get all these guys tack welded in place. [music] All right. We’ve got both of
these mounting brackets cut to the proper length. You could
just hold stuff intact well that I’ve done it plenty
of times but it’s nice to spend a short amount
time figuring out clamps or magnets
or something to hold them. It just makes life a lot easier. This is a nice clamp, one I picked
up recently, it’s got swivels on it. It’ll clamp tubing it
will clamp flat, it will clamp a combination
such as in this case. What I’m going to do on this
is hold this mount in place. I decided I’m going to
center this fender mount to the fender, which is slightly
offset from the center point I drew on this cross
tube, but I think it looks better and once
the center mark is removed. It looks centered, I think it looks
wrong if I line it up to the frame. Unless I’m just looking
at the centerline of the fender and personally
just eyeballing it though you can do
whatever you want but this will hold this in place
for when I tack it and it’s going to hold
the bracket to the cross member and then also I’ve got to make sure it’s sitting forward
against the fender when I clamp it,
that it doesn’t pull away. I have a little difficulty today. I had a broken wrist and just got
my cast off of week and a half ago so I’m still not really be
able to use my left hand properly. Side to side brackets good. I’ve got a good
contact where the bungs are sitting flush against the fender. There’s a slight gap there,
but it’ll be filled in with weld. It’s no problem at
all and the brackets firm up against the cross member
tube. I think that is good. I’m going to unclamp
the lower one and then recheck and probably
triple recheck that my fender is at this
end and over here that it’s centered on
the tire that space is equal on both sides,
and then I’ll just go ahead and get tax
on the bungs as well as the from the bung to the fender and then from the brackets
to the frame. Then I’ll remove
the clamps and get some nice heavy tacks on there and we’ll move along to the fender struts
before finish welding everything. This one’s a little tricky just
because getting it centered it’s a little harder to get
a good line of sight on it. This is when I’ll definitely
want to have it in position. I’ll check multiple times
before really welding. The clamp I’m using, a couple clamps
down at the bottom these are just cheap regular tension clamps you
can pick up at any hardware store. Good for light-duty work like this. They’ll just hold this in
place for me until I tack it. I honestly don’t have
nearly enough style of clamps here in my home workshop. A variety of clamps and magnets,
you can get really creative for
holding work pieces and it makes life easier
when you actually go to the final mile and get
everything welded. Another clamp here that will
hold the bung against the fender. It’s looking pretty good. I’m going to go and get
the welder setup and I’ll give this one last check
again before I tack weld. All right, everything’s clamped
in place, triple checked that the fender gap is
the same all the way around, that the mounting brackets
are perpendicular to the frame rails, that everything
centered on the fender. It’s all clamped in
place ready to go. I’m going to go ahead
and tack weld everything. It might be a little tricky to get
into some spots but even getting a couple– You know want to make
sure they’re decent tacks, but then you can always move the clamps
et cetera to get a little heavier tacks with some fill rod if I
can’t get it in certain areas. Get this thing going. [music] Got two good tacks on each
of the bung to the fender. I’m going to go ahead
and get the bracket tacked, remove this clamp, see if I can get a third tack then once
that’s out of the way on those bungs. [music] I think I’ll go ahead
and throw finish weld across that mean bracket because
it’s in a good area. I’ll crank the amperage
up a little on the welder. [music] Cool. That worked out well. It’s easy to get to. I’m going to throw a bead,
a full weld across the other side where the bracket
meets that tube once the fender’s off,
but that top mount is good to go and I’ll get the bottom
one all mounted up. [music] All right. That went well. I got a good finish weld
action on each of the brackets to the frames, the bungs are
all tacked solidly in place. I’m going to leave this
as is for now, going to leave the fender
even taped in place. I’m going to move
rearward, and we’re going to work on the fender struts and get those all set up before taking it all apart and doing all
the finish welding. All right.
These mounts are more or less done. We are moving on to
the fender struts. I’m going to use these Gasbox
machined fender strut lowers. They don’t come with hardware. These are just some
hardware laying around, some one inch long 5/16s-18 thread. The easiest way to start
visualizing this pretty quickly is to bolt these
components in place. On a Triumph here, this is a little tricky getting the nut
in behind there. There we go. That wasn’t so bad. I’m not going to go nuts on
this, but I’ll snug it up a little,
so it doesn’t move too much on this. You could see there’s
that nice fender strut lower with the Lowbrow
Customs DIY strut kit. It gives you two pieces of half-inch
round bar, round stock, mild steel as well as stainless steel
hardware and an assortment of bungs. What’s nice about these
Gasbox strut lowers is they’re machined for
a half-inch material. It’s a really nice
fit, or you could braze this lower mount in
place, or you can weld it. In this case,
we’re just going to weld it. This allows you to start
looking at the lines of your fender struts, getting an idea
of where you wanted to sit. I’ve popped the seat back
down, just to help with that. Again, this is Todd’s bike,
and I know where he wants his struts because I
discussed it with him already. It’s going to be angled
back to around on the one o’clock
position approximately. Doing the first side, to me,
always seems really easy because we’re going just make it
happen, get everything tacked up and cut, but then it usually
takes quite a bit longer on the other side because
it’s trying to match that. It’s not so bad on a project like
this because the other strut lower bolts into the same place on this
Lowbrow Customs Triumph hardtails. I already got the fender
strut holder in place. We basically will need to
make sure we get the bung on the fender on the exact same
location to make the rod match. What we’re going to do
for the fender following with the theme of what
we did for the rest of the mounts, I don’t want
to have anything that you have to through bolt and have
a knot on the inside. It would be a little tight
clearance and everything. We’re going to end up using one of
the half-inch long threaded mounts. These are 3/8-16 threaded bungs
that comes with the strut kit. We’re going to use
this counterbore along with the hardware that
came with the kit. When you thread these together,
what’s going to end up happening is the half-inch long bung is
going to get welded to the fender. This strut is going to need
to be bent and cut to length, and it’s going to be welded
to the counterbore bung. When you unbolt on here and pull
this bold out, that strut can be removed, and then we’ll
duplicate that on the other side. First thing I’m going
to do is figure out the placement of this
bung and just tack it in place,
and then we’ll go ahead and put a slight bend in
the fender strut material. In this case, what I’m going
to do is take a sharpie, just make a mark where it’s above
the chain, and then I’m simply going to clamp this in my vise
and give it a little elbow grease there, a little muscle,
and just bend it slightly. It’s one of these operations
where less is more. It’s like I’ll probably have to
tweak it two or three times to get it just to the right location,
and then I’ll cut it to length. Don’t cut it to length first because you’re going to mark it and cut
it, bend it and then it may be too
short, and then you’ve wasted that piece of material. I’ll go ahead and mark my location
where this half-inch bung should go on the fender, half-inch duct
bung and tack that in place, and then we’ll go ahead, and we’ll
bend this rod and get it all situated, tacked in place and then
move onto the other side. I’m going to clean off this
fender very quickly using angled die grinder with
a little scotch brite. [background noise] That will do.
This is going to be really simple. Essentially, I’m just going
to move the fender struts to where it looks like it should go, get out of the way, hold the bung where I think
it should go, where I’m going to vertically center
it on this flat skirt part. Let’s see if this little clamp
will just give it– That will hold. I’m going to go ahead and tack that
and tack that and pull that upper bung in place and start figuring out
the angle for the bend of the rod. [music] I was about to just do a little
fusion tack on that, but what I’m going to do before that
is get the bend in that rod. It’ll make it a little easier. Throw three tacks on that for
now just to hold it in place. Went ahead and snugged
up that counterbore bung which is what the strut
will be welded to. You can see that it is sitting
outside of that right now. All I’m going to do is give myself
some sort of reference here. I’m just looking at it. It’s more
visual than anything about where that bend takes place, so I’m going to let this come up a little and then
bend it so it comes in at an angle. You could like them straighter
and do a sharper angle, but I think it looks better with
a bend toward the bottom. I’m looking at it.
I know it needs to come in five five degrees or 10
degrees at most or so. I’ll this over the device,
just going to clamp it in and give
it a little bend. I’m going to go ahead and these
vise jaws have a little channel in them to hold a round
stock vertically right there. All I’m doing is clamping
it right at that mark. I don’t know if that bent it enough. I’m going to get myself
a little cheater bar. Let’s do that. You could heat this up,
cherry red, easily and bend it, but I feel lazy so
I’m not going to do that. I’m just going to grab
a piece of tubing and it’ll give a lot of leverage where
I can bend this easily. We’ll take a look at this. Just going to get a slight bend. It’ll need more, but I like to check
multiple times so I don’t over bend. It needs to come over
quite a bit more. Almost right on. It needs to come this way
about a 16th of an inch. Looking pretty good. Got a nice gradual bend right there. If you heat it cherry red
you can get a tighter bend right there, but I think this
will work out quite well. It’s there.
We need to have right out there. It feels a little weird with these
plastic soft drawers in there too. It’s got a lot to give. I’m trying to get a feel for
when it’s actually bending. It’s right on. Took me a few attempts there
to slightly tweak that to get the bend in it right here
to where it will line up. Now what I’m doing
is I’m going to take a look, make a mark,
cut this to length. I’d way rather cut it slightly
cut it too long where I can dress it on the grinder with
a grinder, belt sander, whatever. What I want is that to be
a nice firm touch under there. Potentially even with
a little bit of a cope to it. I might cut it a little
long and then slightly grind a depression in it so it’ll
sit nice and snug there. You don’t want to
pushing upward pressure. You jam it in place because
then once it’s welded, it’s going to be pushing
pressure on that fender. You want everything to be happy
and free, all your mounts. The fender should
just fall in where it gets mounted, bolts go
home, it’s all good. If you’re pulling your fender
to get a bolt in, I guarantee you’re going to get a crack
in that fender later on. You don’t want any
tension stored in there. This fitment process, it’s worth
taking a little extra time on it. It’ll save you grief later
with your finished bike. The fender painted, et cetera,
and you have a mount break. It’s a total pain in the butt. I’ll go ahead and mark this. Make sure I bend facing
in the right way. I think it’s going to be about there. I’m going to cut about
3/16th of an inch longer that I think it’ll need. I might even cut slightly
about the line I made. What I’m thinking is I might dish
the end of that rod a little so it hugs that bung nice, and I don’t
have too much to fill in with welds. I’ll take this over the vise
and use the grinder with a cut-off wheel
and just cut it to length. [music] We’ve got this first
strut and nothing’s tacked yet,
but I’ve got this in place. This is the first one that I
showed bending with the cheater bar that was a little too
large of an inside diameter. It made just too gradual of a bend,
and I did not like it so I
threw that one away. The other half of the thunderstruck
piece was long enough so I just tried making a new one and I
really liked the way this looked. I’ll show you here when
we do the other side. I grab my oxy-acetylene. I did go ahead and heat this up
and did a bend which once it’s hot happens very easily right
at the end of the fender strut. I went ahead and I coped the end of the strut using my little die
grinder. You could use a grinder. You could use a rat tail
file, whatever you got. What I was mentioning earlier about the tension,
I have to lift up on this to get it to slide past
the lip of the cope, but you can see that it moves freely. This is basically ideal. There’s not a gap for
welding or barely, but there’s no tension on that strut.
This is good to go. I’m going to tack weld that in place, and then move over to the other
side, measure back, locate where
the other bung goes, bolt this piece in
place and do the exact same process but
spending a little extra time looking from above,
behind, everywhere to make sure that
the struts match each other so it looks
and clean when it’s done. I’ll you the process of
bending with heat as well. This is real thin filler
rod for this ticky tack. [music] Moving onto the right-hand side, the most difficult
part of this side is just going to be locating this bung
on the fender in the proper location. It’s not really that difficult. It’s just I’m going to pull
some measurements, clamp it where I think it is,
and really just eyeball. Just look from above, from behind. Taking my time to make sure it’s
where I believe it should be. I’ll tack well that in place and the rest of
the process is the same. When I go to bend the rod,
I’ll go ahead and show you guys the process using oxy-acetylene
to make the bend a little easier. Almost done. It’s just like 7 5/16 roughly. [music] Relics in the ballpark. I need to measure the distance up. It’s quarter-inch up. [music] All right.
I’ve got that bung tacked on. I bolted up the lower strut mount. It’s always a good
idea to check before you bend so you get the proper angle. Don’t overbend. This Triumph with stock wheel
space and the wheel is further to this right-hand side which
I mentioned when I was doing the the brackets up here and I
had centered them to the fender which was slightly different
than centering to the frame. When I put this straight
piece of half-inch rod in here, it’s a quarter inch further or closer than
it was on the other side, not a problem whatsoever. I just need less of a bend
in this piece and that’s good to note because otherwise
I might over bend it. It’s easier to bend once since
I tried to unbend something. I’m going to go ahead
and show you guys and gals how to bend this using
some oxy-acetylene. To bend this using some heat, I did
put a little mark showing me where. When this is slid into the bottom,
the little strut piece that’s where
the top of that ends. What I’m going to do is
clamp this in my vise at that height because that’s where
I want the bend to start. I did remove my soft jaws because
they are plastic and they would melt. If I heated it up with
this clamped in there. This vise has a pretty
hard knurled teeth to it so we’ll make some
marks on this which I don’t mind because
that’s going to slip in to that bottom strut
piece and be hidden. However, when I hold this
piece to chamfer the top or do anything else,
I’ll put the soft jaws back in because I personally
get irritated when I marrow up a piece of
material I’m working with. Oxy-acetylene setup. It’s pretty common.
Pretty affordable. I bought mine off Craigslist
years ago for probably $150, $200. All I’m going to do
is light this torch. I’m going to heat the local area
where I want the bend to be. I’ve got this small
piece of one-inch tubing that I will simply slip
in over it and bend. Once it’s cherry red, it bends very easily so it won’t
take very much force. [music] You can see the dull cherry red
there before it cools too much. I think that’s probably
about all I need. Saw how easily that bent versus cold? I’m going to go check
the fitment real quick see if it needs an adjustment. [music] Everything is now in
place and tack-welded all the mounts,
fender struts, everything. The next step is to unbolt the fender struts,
unbolt the fender remove that. I will then finish weld
the the two brackets that are welded to
the frame and I will finish weld the bungs on the fender and the fender struts at
the bench and that’s it. Bolt it back together
and we’ll be done. I’ll take this thing apart
and get to finish welding. [music] Something I’ll do real quick.
This should be no problem. For now, I’ll just put
an L and an R in marker, left and right for
these fender struts. They’re really only going
to line up one way anyway. If there are super
similar in what they might fit, better one way than the other,
but in this case,
I’m sure they’re different enough that they’re going to
fit one direction anyhow. [music] All right. We’re all wrapped up. I finish welded the bungs
on the fender, and all that jazz,
and let it cool a little bit. Bolted it up.
Everything fit right back up. One last little bit of advice. Well, especially this
is stainless steel hardware,
but really with any hardware. Throw a little anti-seize
and never-seize on those threads before
you bolt it back up. If you really put too
much heat to bungs when you weld them, you might want to run a tap through them
again just to make sure the threads are nice and clean. But a little anti-seize will
keep hardware from galling, especially after it’s been weld–
these bungs have been welded on. Everything is done.
Fender looks great, straight. It reassembled very nicely
because those strong tack welds kept everything in
position for finish welding. I have one or two little spots
I welded I wasn’t 100% happy with, but that’s what gives
custom built things character. It’s that hand-built look. All in all, I’m pleased. Hopefully, Todd will be
happy to get this bike back. Wrap up any details. Blow it
apart for any paintwork, polish, that kind of stuff,
and get it on the road. Thanks for watching. If you like this video,
click on the subscribe button below. Like it. Leave us comments.
We actually read them and respond. Let us know what you like,
what you’d like to see next. Anything we can do
better, or anything we can do to help you out.
Thanks very much. See you later. [music]

18 comments on “How To Install: A Rear Motorcycle Fender On a Triumph Chopper

  1. I love your videos. Please accept this in the spirit it was intended- Please don't store your chuck key in the lathe chuck, I have seen disastrous results.

  2. ๐Ÿ’€๐Ÿ’€๐Ÿ’€๐Ÿ’€๐Ÿ’€๐Ÿ’€โ˜ โ˜ โ˜ โ˜ โ˜ โ˜ ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ”ฅ๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช๐Ÿ’ช

  3. On an inside corner where I want a radius I will typically drill a joke of appropriate size, sometimes I'll even use a holesaw to get the size I desire.

  4. This video couldnโ€™t have come at a better time. Just purchased the strut kit, and fender mounts. Thanks for all the detailed videos they are so helpful.

  5. You guys are stars! I emailed Lowbrow last week and asked when this video was coming out. Got a reply from Todd saying it had been made but was being edited! What a nice surprise to see it tonight! And whats even better, they used the superb bullet proof Gasbox Fender that I'm using and the same brackets! ๐Ÿ™‚ I learnt a lot from Tyler, so thanks a lot! God bless you guys! Cheers from UK

  6. You guys ought to do a video on how to make videos. I watch a lot of them and I judge yours about the bestโ€”clear and detailed instruction, fully explained for any level of audience, great camera work. Gives a lot of us courage and ability to do good stuff. As for suggestions, might you consider featuring some customersโ€™ bikes, detailing interesting and creative things theyโ€™ve done. Start with Toddโ€™s bike, I love the look of it, would be great to have a close look at it when he gets it done (or even before!).

  7. that's some nice hardware. I wish that stuff had been around when I built my chopper. you had to make brackets and spacer bungs yourself. theย parts that Taiwan ted had were mostly garbage.

  8. Difuder! love this tutorials, they're fucking great! The level of detail coming from someone that knows whats is doing… Greetings from Brasil, man! M/

  9. Great videos, hopefully you'll make more this type of videos. Really helps people like myself who knows only a little on this custom world things.

    Cheers

  10. Thank you for showing all of the detail – very helpful. I think you missed a marketing opportunity by not having close-up video when Tyler showed the various Lowbrow products being used in this build.

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