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How To Keep Your Bike Quiet | Tips To Silence Cables

How To Keep Your Bike Quiet | Tips To Silence Cables


– Often when people are noise
hunting around their bikes, they completely overlook cables. Now they can rattle against
each other, they can crack and creak and generally make
noises you wouldn’t think could come from such innocuous little beggars. In terms of frame design,
the jury is still out, as to whether cable should
go internally or externally. With the advent of carbon, more cables seem to be
routed inside the frame, so it’s more prevalent perhaps
on your high end bikes, but there is no definitive right answer. And they both suffer
from the same problem, they can make a bloody racket. So here are 10 handy dandy ways to keep your cables running quiet. (mellow music) Here we have a product of
Jagwire, which is internal hose damping, to look at
it, it looks like some pipe lagging from the borrowers,
but it’s pretty obvious what it does, it stops
cables from banging into each other, or themselves,
whilst inside your frame. It’s pretty light, reusable,
and it’s an absolute godsend for some frames that
just refuse to be quiet. (mellow music) Mister cable tie, in for the rescue again. This one is where we actually
tail the cable to form a nice little loop which
presses up against the frame. It’s not so much about
stopping cables banging into each other but about keeping
them in a secure position inside potentially quite a large tube. Really simple to do,
very cheap, and actually, really, really reliable. (mellow music) This is some shrink wrap. It’s absolutely fantastic. It takes a bit of foresight,
but with due planning it can might your cockpit look dynamite. And yeah, it’s the anti frizz
serum of the bike world. You cut it to length,
slot it over your cables, and then you, with a heat
gun, you basically apply heat and it shrinks to size. It looks great, the only
reason I don’t like it is perhaps in a crash it can
tear, and then it’s a big job to redo. But, if you’re perhaps a
bit more of a safe rider than me, you can keep your
bike looking smart for so long and it looks absolutely fantastic. (mellow music) If you do find you’re perhaps
a bit more crash happy, this is another really good alternative. It basically is tape that
bonds itself on both sides and it’s maybe a slightly
more premium option than electrical tape, but it
is very rugged, and if you do kind of cut it, you can also
reapply more with the cable still in the bike. (mellow music) I don’t think I need to do
much explaining when I say sensible routing, but it is so important. When I look at a bike,
personally I prefer it when they don’t cross with a head
tube, but that’s a complete personal preference and
with modern frames it is quite easy to get them to
adhere to the entry point without them bouncing off
your head tube or any other parts of the frame. It’s also worth thinking about
if you’re towing a number board on the front of your
bike, how and what it’s going to do to cables. Sometimes people have very
neat routing and they find that once they put a number
board on, it all goes haywire. Also look at your brake calipers. Do they have a pivot point and a banjo, and can they be run as direct as possible, with as little rattle chance as possible. (mellow music) If you want to stop the cables
themselves touching together, then you can do so by using
one of these cable ferrules as a bump stop in the middle. Really simple to do, you
just chop off the end there, and use it as bent tubing. It can look really,
really neat, and I love it how the cables look all
parallel to each other. Pretty fool proof way,
and the benefit of these is they don’t seem to
shuffle down the cables, like a normal cable tie would. (mellow music) Rubber mastic tape, even
Velcro tape is a great way, to not only stop noise,
but also protect your frame when you’re running
your cables externally. You can either leave it in little strips, underneath and along, or you
can even run the whole length. This is particularly good
and perhaps on the underside of a top tube. It’s also, not crazy to see it on the inside of chain devices,
just to stop that rattle and that wear, and also lining stays. It’s an absolute godsend and
it yeah, it can make your bike run so quiet and smooth,
and like I said it keeps you frame looking better for longer. (mellow music) When you want your cables
to be in a static point, and very close to a frame
tube, actually just running it through a washer like
so, and making like a figure of eight loop, is a really,
really good way to keep it secure, this is especially
useful when perhaps the way that your hose
routes out of your caliper isn’t quite as you’d like it
to be, but you can keep it in one spot, safe and secure
on the stay with this. Doesn’t always look the
neatest if I’m honest, but it definitely serves a purpose. (mellow music) This transparent, I think
it’s just a water hose is really, really good
for protecting your cables when they are outside of the frame. If your cables like on
Mondraker as they actually go beneath the bottom bracket,
they can be really vulnerable to rock strikes. Also, very good is when you
loop it, and it goes around to the derailleur. This can actually stop
it vibrating on the frame as it’s a lot softer than
the hard metal encased in plastic that makes up an outer cable. Also, what’s really good,
is you can cut it to length, and a length may be an
inch or two long is really good for running either
side of a head tube, either side of a seat tube. For keeping cables really secure, even though they’re further away. You’ll actually see it
often, people on race bikes having a length of this to keep
their front brake kept hose of their number board,
just to stop it vibrating. So it can be really,
really noisy, especially when you’re going warp speed. (mellow music) Tiny, tiny cable ties are
actually my weapon of choice really, perhaps it didn’t look as refined or as pre-thought out,
but I just think it looks really good, but there’s
some really important topics around this, the main one,
and you’re going to think I’m an idiot, but I don’t
care, you’ve got to stand to your guns, you’ve got
always have the cable ties going in the same direction. You notice how that
one’s slightly different? (clicks tongue) No, please don’t do it to me, it pains me, it breaks my heart. You can also do them in like
a figure of eight looping around there, which is
very good in that it stops the cable perhaps sliding along as much, there’s a lot more resistance. I just love the tried and
tested, small cable tie. Really neat, and especially
when you have your cables altogether cut to the right exact length, it just looks so smart. Park Tool who actually
make these ZP-5 cutters. And the reason they’re so good is they get it incredibly flush. If you are running cable
ties on your frame, especially if it’s on
perhaps your down tube, make sure that you get that really flush, even if you have to get
a little file to it, because if you come off, you can actually cut
your leg pretty badly. I’ve fallen foul about when
I was younger, so, yeah, something like that is great. If you don’t have this
perfect tool, you can actually get some normal cutters
and I’ve actually rubbed them on a grinder before
until they set really flush. (mellow music and sirens wailing) This is perhaps one of the bodgier ones, but it is actually very good. Sometimes when you have
an entry point on a frame, it perhaps doesn’t have a
rubber grommet and it is one tube, one channel and
the cables aren’t bounce, bouncing around in the hull
frame, but rather a slightly larger diameter tube, you can
basically slide a cable tie straight in, down the length of the tube. It doesn’t seem to rattle
out, nor does it fall in, thanks to the end, and it’s
amazing how well it works. Like I said, it’s a bit of a
bodge, but if it gets you out, it’s not a bother and keeps
your bike running silent, then who cares. It’s not uncommon for
people to store cable ties in their bottom bracket,
because they are very useful to have on a ride, so it
can also double up as a neat solution to two problems. Well, that is it for me, that’s how to keep your
cables running silent. If perhaps you could dream
of a day, cast back into the distant memories of mountain biking, before bike designer had
even come up of the concept of internal cable routing. I know there are no mechanics
complaining about it in bikes shops, then you
can actually click here, Donnie did a really
cool retro versus modern on the old Nukeproof Reactor
which is one hell of a bike and if you perhaps want to
spend more time in the workshop, hack some stuff, maybe
bodge is a better word, I’ve actually got some tools
that I’ve slapped together over the years and you
can click down there to check that one out. Cheers.

77 comments on “How To Keep Your Bike Quiet | Tips To Silence Cables

  1. Can you put a fork with tapered steerer in a bike if it has a threaded steerer I have a kids bike and I have a fun idea.

  2. I use surgical rubber tubing off eBay on the outside of the cables before inserting into my frame. No rattle at all even on roughest rocky terrain 😊🤙

  3. getting used to Henry. I remember it took me a while to get used to Doddy. He was always that guy of Mountain Bike Adventures.

  4. That's heatshrink. Shrink wrap is the stuff you wrap your sandwiches in.

    A little tip: Shrink a bit of narrower heatshrink sleeving over the end of your gear cable before you cut it. That bugger ain't fraying for anyone.

  5. When I fitted my Crank Brothers Highline dropper. I used Cobra Flexroute. They are a rubber lop for the cable and they extend out to the side. They can be cut and conform to any shape. They also come with low profile zip ties. So the tail of the zip tie follows the original path of the zip tie. Looks a lot neater than the traditional style zip ties. They are more expensive than normal zip ties but they also look neater. To cut the zip tie tails I have actually pulled then over slightly and run a very sharp craft knife along the edge of the block on the zip tie to get a near cut. Sometime the cut isn't as neat as I would like so I run the knife along the block and get it as neat as OCD possible.

  6. There's a special tool called a cable tie gun that will tighten and cut cable ties properly. Way better than that park tool cutter!

  7. How about the cable tie when we want to change the cable?? I cannot leave that in my frame🤣🤣. It is more louder that cable😅

  8. I use http://capgo.de/en/capgo-ol–noise-protection–2m_1111.html – perfect for all internal cables.

  9. I use self vulcanization tape for stopping leaks to make nice rubber grommets where cable enters the frame.

  10. Look up 6mm spiral cable wrap on ebay… You literally wrap it around your cables and you can remove and reuse them whenever. Heatshrink's just a pain in the ass to use.

  11. You do not need to be a safe rider to not crash. You just need to be a good rider to not crash. IDIOT!!!

  12. Check out "griplockties" they're zip ties with rubber lining I first saw them in kit plane construction but they work awesome on bikes

  13. #askgmbntech
    Hey guys, do you know how to straighten lower legs? My Rockshox boxxer lower legs(2015) are bent from a large crash

  14. Thanks Henry, love your hacks and bodges! Some top tips here – my favourite is the cable ferrules pure genius!

  15. Sugru is really good stuff for frame protection and could be used to wrap around cables, basically like blue tack but dries hard. Toe nail clippers are best for a neat cable tie trim.

  16. Bikes are designed for riding on the road, right hand side. This applies to off road bikes too. In the UK there is a problem- driving on the left, the brake levers need to be swapped over, so the cable routing is wrong. This could be acknowledged! Then there is the matter of the cables not being the correct length in part due to riding-on-the-left routing. Seems we have ten tips for scratching and scuffing your paint with these so-called tips. Pre-requisite should be getting the cables right in the first place. And how does this piece get told with no bikes on screen apart from one road bike?

  17. if you're concerned with the noise ya cables are making when your out riding, I'd suggest taking up a different sport, like stamp collecting.

  18. If you don't have a rubber grommet, instead of dropping the cable tie into the hole in the frame, pull the cable out a bit and wrap it in electrical tape and push back in.

  19. Only issue when you silence cables, is the fact that you start hearing the other noises in your bike! The other ones are the sound of the tires, the bouncing of the shifter lever and squeaks of the seat post (have to grease that, i know).

  20. Thanks Henry #GMBNTech for the tips! I quite like the ferrule, washer and clear tubing/cable ties combo but what i don't like is the head of the cable tie itself. What about cable spiral wraps, they work too!😎👍

  21. my bike suffered from noisy internal cable routing into chain stay, and due to linkage design, on the 2014 Fuel ex, I had to silence it.
    I used inner tube I cut two times so it was about a cm wide wrapped it around the cable, of course tape would have worked nicely too, but I had some tubes, so I used them.
    https://flic.kr/p/2gcyTTC https://flic.kr/p/27Bocoa awful cable routing, on my bike it is tricky to get the cable trough, and everything has to be doen carefully & precisely, to not damage the internal routing tool, stupid routing, but I see some other bikes have silly routing like this, there are o benefits apart from aesthetics.
    So far thee best cable routing I have seen is on Nicolai bikes, they get it, can take everything off fast easy, without need of zipties.
    1:51 I never liked the idea of shrink wrap, as you need to mess with the cables and do it all over again if you swap something, I rather use zipties.

  22. I think you should have mentioned the product names of the products used, and similar alternatives in the description.
    the tape, like the housing covers, there are many types I guess. my bike came with something similar, but it was stiffer, and not as soft, and did not really dampen the sound much.

  23. You know what keeps bikes quiet? Old school and common sense engineering. Retro grouchiness. PROVEN THINGS THAT WORK! Steel is real. It doesnt create speaker boxes like carbon. Cables on the outside of the frame. Threaded bottom brackets. Properly assembled bikes.
    Or just ride with headphones! They should be sold with many modern bikes!
    My fixed gear ‘cross bike is silent except for the hiss of tires on the ground. The chain doesnt slap. Normal spoked wheels dont rub against one another. The cantilever brakes I use are squealy, but I rarely need to use them. They are set up right and plenty strong along with my legs I brake with. I like noisy brakes, it lets others know a silent bike is approaching. A rigid frame and fork dont clank and squeak.
    This bike absolutely rips and I rarely get passed.

  24. I’m not sure I’d use a metal washer against my frame. A rubber washer would be a better alternative. More secure with the extra flex too.

  25. You can cut cable ties flush even with standard electrical cutters.
    Simply put one blade on the inside of the cable tie ( toothed side ) and the other on the back of the block not the back of the cable tie or the underside of the block. ( as below if that lines up )
    >|
    [ | ]<
    |
    Then snip.

    Simple and flush.

  26. Upgraded my brakes recently but haven't had the time to shorten the cables yet. They make a noise ever pedal stroke, oh boy!

  27. One tip for cable ties. If you cut them flush with a cutter, flame the end of with a lighter for a second and it will be very smooth 🙂 Also u can use some sort of spiralband for cablemanagment on your brake and shifting cables that are on the outside of your frame. It protect your cables and it looks very neat!

  28. On my hardtail I have external cables that go to raw cable under the top tube, I have rubber "gromits" not sure what there called, thick rubber o rings maybe, is there any thing else I can do to stop them clumping together and the cable hitting the top tube, and other parts of my bike

  29. To cut cable ties you can also use nail clipless they work really well, get a really close cut and then just file the end, who needs Park Tools for every thing haha

  30. Henry, I have some small nail clippers in my tool box for cutting away the cable tie ends. They come really close and they are rounded so the cut is smooth and plush, plus you can reach tight spots with them. I never use anything else on cable ties.

  31. I bought an Orange Alpine 6 last year and rode it for over six months with the cables hitting each other (front brake hose against the gear cable) with a constant tick tick tick. Every time thinking I must sort that out but never getting round to it. Then while sorting the garage one day I found the bag of bits that came with the bike. Inside was a few little clips for the cables. I put ONE on and now it's silent 🙂

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