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How To Make Your E-Bike Feel Brand New | Refresh Your Ride

How To Make Your E-Bike Feel Brand New | Refresh Your Ride

– Your e-bike’s designed
to be ridden hard and fast, every single day, and in turn, it can take
quite a hammering out there. Your components can feel pretty tired, your frame can look pretty tired, too. Today’s video, taking a look
at how you can get your e-bike looking and feeling brand-new. (electronic chirping) (upbeat music) Your chain is one of the most
important parts of the e-bike, and keeping on top of the
maintenance of the chain is really key to avoid
premature wear to the cassette, chain ring, and all the other drive items, and you only need a few
items to keep on top of that. And that is a chain
cleaner, or a chain bath. You simply fill this up with de-greaser, clamp that on your chain, pedal it backwards or forwards, and that way it’s going to clean the chain as well as de-greasing
it at the same time. A really helpful tool. You can do it with a
spray and a paintbrush and things like that, but it’s quite a dirty job, and this thing keeps all
that gunk from your chain and all the horrible
stuff all in one place. That’s a real essential
tool, the chain bath. Next up’s obviously going
to be the de-greaser, which you’re going to
put in the chain bath or you can simply spray this
on and apply it with a rag. Just be sure not to be over-spraying it and contaminating the rear disc with that because it’s going to be
howling and squeaking away. And lastly, a decent chain lube. You can get wet and dry lube. Just make sure you’re using the right lube for the right conditions. Simple maintenance that can make your bike feel like brand-new. (upbeat music) The brakes on your e-bike
are super important as well. You might find that the
actual brake bite point might have decreased over
time, so you pull in your lever and it’s coming closer to the handlebars. Now, a really cheap way of getting those brakes back to brand-new is by sticking a new set of pads in. What you do is stick the pads in, reset the calipers
while pushing pads back. That way, that should
restore all that power and the same feeling into that brake as when it was brand-new. (upbeat music) Now, one of your first contact
point on your e-mountain bike is going to be your grips. Now, traditionally, it
can be either lock-on grip or just a simple rubber slide-on grip. Really good upgrade and
real nice way of refreshing your cockpit is to stick a decent set of quality grips on there. It’s going to increase the
trail rider experience. Your grip’s going to be a lot better. You’re not going to get a lot more fatigue coming through the grips. It’s going to be a quality item. Once again, it can refreshen
that whole cockpit up. It can make your bike feel brand-new. (upbeat music) Now, one thing you might experience when you’re out riding trails is that the derailleur
doesn’t to the shifter just as it did when it was brand-new. This is usually due to cable tension. Now, all you do to adjust
that derailleur action is getting friendly with a
barrel adjuster on the shifter, so just add or decrease
that tension in there by winding the evener barrel out or in. So, if you’re struggling
to shift up the gears, then you need to add a bit of tension to that barrel adjuster, or if you can’t shift down, then you need to decrease the amount of cable
tension in there, as well. Just fine-tuning. That is actually indexed, so as soon as you move that,
you feel it click, click, so just do little clicks at a time and see which is working out and helping that derailleur action. (upbeat music) Now, a rattly or creaking
e-bike on the trails is definitely not going to
be making it feel brand-new, so it’s really worth
checking a few basic bolts. Now, the favorite stuff
on e-bikes to come loose, from my experience, is chain ring bolts, crank bolts, rim axle, and the disc bolts is where you can find
them floating around. Now, also, you get a lot of
creaking coming from e-bikes, usually, because you spend
a lot of time in the saddle, so it’s really worth checking
the bolts on that, as well, and your handlebar and stem. When it comes down to detecting where that creak is coming from, it can blow your mind sometimes. You’re like constantly trying to find out where the hell is this creak coming from. It’s just a process of elimination. You just go through seated, pedaling. You go through freewheel,
out of the saddle. Is that noise still happening? Does it happen when I sprint
and pull on my handlebars? Just going through all
those different motions and finding out where the hell that damn creak is coming from. (upbeat music) A decent, detailed clean on your e-bike can make it look brand-new, as well. It’s just really worth trying to get ahold of a bike’s specific
cleaning kit, as well, to get like these little brushes that are going to get down into all these little nooks
and crannies and your hubs, clean your spokes, rims, tires. Also things like Silicone
Shine polish on your frame can work wonders, too. It can really bring up those matte black, back to how it was when
you picked that bike up from the bike shop brand-new. Just be careful, obviously, if
you are using Silicone Shine, things like that, that
you’re not getting any drift or spray drifting across onto things that it shouldn’t be on
like your brake rotors, things like that as well. But Silicone Shine can make
all these black components look brand-new. (upbeat music) Sometimes when you get your
e-bike out and hit the trails, the bike can feel pretty alien, too. Sometimes, it can be a loss of
air in the suspension system and all your sag has gone to pot. If you leave your bike sat
’round from a long time, naturally, pressure can
escape from the fork and the rear shock if you’ve
got air units on there, so it’s really worth checking that you haven’t loss a lot of pressure and you’ve got increased sag, so you really need to get on your bike with your riding kit on, your riding pack, just make sure you’re sitting
in that 25 to 30% sag area, not below it, because if
you’ve got too much sag, you’re going to be getting
loads of pedal strikes and the bike’s going to be all raped out. Your head angles going to be super slack, bottom brackets can be really low, and that bike is going
to feel really nasty. (upbeat music) Precise gear shifting and
indexing on your rear derailleur on your e-bike is a must. If you’ve got that thing skipping around and crunching around, it isn’t going to be a
very nice experience. Now, something you might experience when you are downshifting, your derailleur might be
a little bit slow to react to the shifter’s movement, so basically, it needs a new gear
inner cable replacement. Now, these are super cheap,
and it’s a really good way of getting that crisp
shifting back once again. What you need to do is
whip the inner cable out of the outer cable. So, you just undo it at the shifter end, pull the cable out, flush the outer gear cable through with some sort of lube or lubricant just to flush all the bits out. You’ll see a bit of a
jet coming out of the end of the outer cable. And all you do is simply thread
that inner cable back in, adjust the rear derailleur back up so you’ve got crisp shifting once again with a nice smooth action. (upbeat music) Tubeless is great, but it does
requires some maintenance. A lot of people think it’s
a fit if they get a product. If you’ve got tubeless sealant, you can ride for two years
and not get get a puncture. You might get lucky, but it
does need a bit of a top-up now and again. Now, I like to top up my sealant every two to four months, depending on where I’m riding, how much I’ve been riding, so really good way to check if you’ve got any sealant
actually left in your tire, whip the tire out the bike, well, the wheel out the bike, give it a good shake, and
you should be able to hear some sealant actually sloshing
around in the tire itself. Usually, if you can’t hear that there’s any sealant in there, chances are it’s all dried-out and you’re not going to
have any protection at all. So, what you need to do, is
with a lot of the bottles, you can simply take the valve core out and top that sealant level up just by simply squirting it
in through the tire valve. Or if you want to put a lot in, you can simply un-clip the
tire bead, top that sealant up. It’s really important you do it, because if you’ve got no sealant, you’re going to get punctures. So, there you go. I really hope you’ve enjoyed today’s video on refreshing your ride and getting that bike riding like it’s brand-new once again. If you want to stick around
and check out another video, check out perfect shifting
down here by Doddy. Really cool video, that one. Don’t forget, give us a
thumbs-up if you enjoyed it. You could subscribe to
EMBN by clicking the globe and also click that
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every time we upload a video so you don’t miss out. Give us a thumbs-up if you enjoyed it. Drop some comments in the box below. We’ll see you in the next one.

21 comments on “How To Make Your E-Bike Feel Brand New | Refresh Your Ride

  1. I was trained to work on a clean bike – no dirt to get into your bits and pieces, and easier to spot anything wrong… plus the bike is ready to be lubed and put away clean ready for the next ride… might be personal preference, but I wash my bike / motorbike / car before I work on them…

  2. Implying people should put new pads in just because their leavers are going in too far is rubbish.
    Check the pads first and if they're fine, pull the brakes with the wheels out then leaver the pads in just enough to be just off the rotor. This assumes your hydrolics are fine without issues.

  3. once again you gave regular maintenance advice for any bike and no mention of the Electric side of things, do you really need a clickbait title to get viewers?

  4. My gear cable rattled loose the other day and instantly my rear suspension felt dreadful does this have something to do with the kinematic sad the chain is in a harder gear or do u think it was just mental

  5. Fitted a dropper post to my Ebike, CREAK several weeks later, sounded like front, crank. Simple fix . Tightned seat post clamp.

  6. any tricks for cleaning the cassette?anyone else find lubing the chain a pain with two freewheels (motor and freewheel)?washing the inside of the cable housing with what, silicone spray?

  7. #Askembn I've a Giant fathom e3 2019 and I warped and discoloured the factory rotors and updated them through the shop to an anti warp set, but I'm discolouring the rear rotor and I'm still getting clicky, scratchy noises off the front. Do I need another type of pad, or wha'? I'm 100kg and running 29ers and the climbs here just on regular roads are mahoosive

    Cheers Boyz, watching all your stuff up here in the wicklow mountains

  8. Don't walk away, run from this guys bike shop. He clearly knows very little if anything about e-bikes. worse, he's got some honesty problems. Like the brake pads. 9 times out of ten, brake pads just need adjusted (narrowing the gap between the rotor and the pads because the pads are a little thinner from wear), not replaced.

    and ya, washing the frame with fancy, expensive stuff doesn't make it faster. It doesn't make it look any better than dish soap either.
    etc etc…

    But the worst part is that this video was supposed to be about e-bikes. he didn't mention the battery or motor at all. yes, Virginia, a qualified e-bike mechanic ( and many DIYs out there) can disassemble and repack the motor and it's grease. It makes the motor quieter and a little more energy efficient. No, of course, you don't have to. you can leave it sealed and it might just last forever. . . . But the battery has an infinite life span. it needs to be replaced and performance will begin to suffer before it's end of life. and BTW, it's a safety issue. you keep recharging a li-ion battery after it's maximum recommended charges and each recharge increases the risk of fire. and li-ion fires are extremely hot, damaging and difficult to put out

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