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Motorcycle Battery Box Install How-To on a Hardtail Triumph Bobber

Motorcycle Battery Box Install How-To on a Hardtail Triumph Bobber


Tyler: Hey.
It’s Tyler with Lowbrow Customs. I am going to do
a little bit of work on a motorcycle with Todd at
Lowbrow is putting together and thought it was a good
opportunity to show you a gas box universal
battery box in use. There’s many ways you can
use them and mount them. I’m going to show
you a nice easy clean method that works especially well for motorcycles that
have a cross tube like that and the hardtail frame. [music] The universal battery
box could be mounted to anything with two holes in it. You could always weld a piece
of flat strap with holes in it, you could weld tabs
coming off of a cross member. The way I’m going to show you
is using some of these bungs. These are lowbrow customs Universal fabricator bungs,
these are 1-inch OD. Here’s an open set. They are coped for 1-inch tubing
already and it’s a perfect fit and they’re tapped 5/16 18 thread
which is a standard thread. Now, the Gasbox battery box
came with quarter-inch hardware. I’m also going to show you
how to take this is some stainless 5/16 hardware the proper
size for these threaded bungs and I’ll show you how I’m
going to drill and counterbore that battery tray to
work with this hardware. It makes install super
clean, stable and easy. I’m going to show you how to end
up locating the bungs properly, getting your battery box all
nice and centered straight plumb tack weld finish weld bolt
in place and that’s a really straightforward process and it’s
very durable and it looks great. Here is our Gasbox
battery tray base. You can see it’s countersunk
for quarter-inch hardware. The 5/16 hardware I’m going
to use it doesn’t fit through. The first step I’m going to do is
drill those holes out for 5/16. We’ve got a 5/16 drill bit in
here, put a little lube on it. This will just take a moment. Now, the hardware fits through but the head is not
sitting flush into that countersink because
the countersink is set up for a smaller
quarter-inch bolt. The next thing I’m
going to do is change up my drill bit for a countersink. This countersink has the proper angle
that matches the taper on that head and it will allow me to
make these chamfers deeper. I’m basically going
to remove a little material,
put the hardware in until it sits its flush and take
a little bit at a time it’s all to
get the proper depth. When doing any countersinking
and really drilling or anything,
it’s good to use a little bit of light lubrication on
there or keep you from making your conversings
dull prematurely. All I’m doing is getting the initial
countersink to open that up. To make sure I don’t go too deep,
I’m just going to go ahead and test. Now, it fits better
than it did but that head is still proud of the material. I’m going to go ahead and relieve
it a little bit more. This being aluminum, I’m not clamping
the workpiece, I’m just holding with my hand and the countersink it’ll self-center the piece
and hold it loosely. I’ll pull it right in as you go. You could clamp this
down and make sure everything is really
secure if you want. All right, almost there. It’s a lot better but
we really want the head of that sitting flush
with this base so the battery is sitting
on the bottom of the tray and not just
riding on the bolt heads. Almost there I’ll just have
more and we’re good to go. There we go, perfect. Next thing is to do the exact
same process on the second hole. Perfect, there we go.
We’re ready to go. All right. Now that we have
modified the battery tray for the larger hardware
the next step is I’m going to simply pop
this through and I’m going to thread the bungs
in place like so. Just a loose-leaf right now. Something important
to point out about this hardware, I actually shorten these because I didn’t have
the proper length here in my garage. These are Flathead Allen. Now the proper length if you’re
going to basically do the same style install I’m doing it’s
5/8, seven inch or 0.625 inches. With a flathead Allen,
you actually measure the length from the top of the head to the flat
normally with almost any bolts you measure from under the head
but since these countersink into the material, you’re
looking at that overall length. If you need to order
Hardware or go to the local hardware store, get yourself
some 5/8s flathead Allens. Again these are 5/16 18 thread. I’ll get these roughly into position. What I want to do here is just get
an idea where this is going to sit on my cross tube and see how nicely
that cope fits in that cross member. I left them slightly loose and I’ll
snug them up before I weld. My goal here is to get this
position, figure out where on the tube I
want in this direction and then also to make
sure that I have it perpendicular to
the bottom frame rail. You don’t want to weld it all
up, put your battery in there and then realize that your
batteries all cattywampus. Something that I think is
really worth mentioning is before I worry about
getting this battery box perpendicular square to my
frame, I need to ensure that my frame is
as parallel to the ground. I’ve got this lift under here, this
blackjack just to steady the bike. I’m going to go ahead and lower that down because I want
to make sure right now I know from setting it up that it
lifted the front of the bike a bit. On this particular bike, I don’t even know if there’s fluid
in the forks right now but I’m just
going to pull down on that suspension and see
where it sits. It brought it down a little
from where it was. You have to remember
as well that when a motorcycle has a rider
on it when you’re riding down the road it’s under load it’s going to sit
a little differently. Looking at this just eyeballing,
it is a little higher in the front. That’s fine. I just wanted to check
and see where it’s at. When I line up the battery
tray, I’m still going to make sure that it’s not
vertical say to the lift table. I want to make sure it is nice
and perpendicular to the frame rail. You don’t want your motorcycle
looking great and then your battery box is straight but it looks
crooked compared to everything else. You can level your table, level
your frame, get everything all set up but I’m going to do
it the old-fashioned way and just eyeball it. If you stare at it long
enough and you can’t tell if it’s crooked it’s fine. Another thing is I’m going
to tack weld the bungs to the tube while they’re
bolted to this tray. It’s a little bit
more, you know, work getting up under there
to tack weld them, but I’m going to get
at least two solid tacks,
maybe three on each of the bungs that ensures that when
I unbolt the tray, remove it and finish weld the bungs, when everything’s
ready to go together, it’s going to be a beautiful fit.
It’s going to bolt right up. I’m not going to have a hole off
by a tiny bit and then you’ve messing around trying to file
the hole or something like that. It’s a total mess. By welding or tack welding,
while you have everything together, it’ll save you
a lot of hassle later on. The other thing I
might mention is we’ve got the chain on this bike right now. It’s really easy to forget
about things like your chain. What we’re going to
do is just going to pick a happy spot
for this battery box. Definitely keeping away from
the chain because you can get a little side to side motion
when you’re riding and you don’t want to have to worry
later about your chain slapping your battery box
and messing up your nice work. We’re going to end up
leaving a healthy margin in between the chain
and the battery box. The other thing is this
is the side that the strap bolts to release your battery,
you’re obviously going to want easy access,
so you’d want that on this side as opposed to the side
where your chain is at. That’s it.
What I’m going to do is get the welder set up and prep that tube for tack welding and get this
thing positioned and weld it up. I’m going to prepare to weld. First thing I’m going to
do is clean off the tubing. I’m just using a little
bit of Emery paper. I really actually like these rolls
of plumbers Emery tape because it’s really strong, convenient and you
can do stuff really easily like this. Take off any little bit of flash
rust, any bit of oil scale, whatever. To get a nice clean weld, you really want to have clean
surface to work with. Seem more than enough. It’s a natured alcohol,
works for cleaning. Be careful. Don’t kill yourself
using brake clean and whatnot. All right, so that tube is
ready to go. Same thing. I’m just going give
these bungs are nice– They’re not covered in
surface rust or anything. There is machine oil on them,
so I’m going to go ahead and just for the heck of it, hit
the outside edge all the way around just to clean off anything
potentially there that might annoy me while I’m welding
and suck into my weld pool. Wipe these off real quick. Okay. Now I am ready. These are ready to
be tack welded once I have everything located properly. To help me eyeball this in
a very professional mathematical way, I’m going to go ahead
and put the battery on there. This just gives me
a larger visual to help me make sure that it’s
nice and straight. I did pull the right-hand
exhaust pipe off. What I’m really going to
look at is the underneath flat edge of the battery
box compared to this rail. It’s pretty easy to get these
things lined up just by eye. Oh, there. The other thing I’m
going to check again is just eyeballing to see where
the battery is sitting left to right in relation to the chain
and just where I think it gets sufficient clearance
and also looks good. Keeping in mind the mounting
straps going to be coming down right here, allows you to
access that without any issue. My tendency is,
being slightly OCD, is the center that battery
to the tire but that would give me a little less clearance than I think I would
like from the chain. Right about there should
work and now I will go ahead and level it
front to rear again. It’s good. Okay. I am ready to give this
a tack welder too and I like to do a couple tackles,
stop, look at it again. I’ve made the mistake in the past,
you know, sometimes getting too excited,
just go in and welding everything up,
standing back happy with my work and then seeing something’s
totally crooked. When you tack weld,
it pulls the metal in one direction or another. It’s always good to tack
opposite sides, kind of switch around and it’ll help keep your
piece a little more centered. [music] All right, so I went ahead
and tack welded that real quick. Those were just fusion tacks,
meaning I didn’t use any fill rod, they’re just
temporary to hold this in place while I verify that nothing
shifted or moved and it’s exactly what I wanted before
I go ahead and finish weld it. I couldn’t really even see that well. Again, those were just
little temporary welds. I’m going to end up unbolting this
tray and taking a look and then I’m going to go ahead and finish
weld the bungs actually real quick. Before I do that,
let’s take a look again. Looks spot on. I didn’t think
it moved at all while I was welding it,
and the position looks great. I’m going to go ahead,
remove this tray, finish weld the bungs, put it back
together, and it’s all done. [music] All right.
Got these bungs finish welded. It’s a little pain in the butt
having the bike pretty together like this, but got a nice beat
all the way around, both of them. I’m going to throw a little bit of,
this is never sees in a stick form. Since this hardware I’m
using is stainless steel, I don’t want it to gall and I’ve
had it happen even while test-fitting,
there’s a little bit of grit or such an air can gall stainless,
and then you’re screwed. It’s a little sees on there. Plus I just weld on these bungs and they’re a little
hot, not too hot, though. I’m going to go ahead
and bolt this in place. An alternative that never ceases,
if you do use blue Loctite, blue Loctite will keep things
stains from galling as well. The nice thing about
the design of this hardware with this battery box,
the way we’re installing it, once you install the battery,
it’s holding the heads of these puts,
so those can’t physically back out. Your battery tray is
going to stay nice and tight because it’s going to have the battery itself
holding the hardware and locking it physically in place. All right, there’s our nice new
battery tray all securely mounted. Fit the battery up. Super simple and easy. This is the bolt washer
and flange nut that come with the gas box,
Universal Battery box. Look at that, lucky for us,
that even clears that cross member. It might be a little difficult
to, not difficult, but you have to fish
this nut in there. Since you’re only removing
the tie-down strap when you’re removing your battery,
it’s not a big deal, in my opinion. There you have it, a nice,
sturdy battery. It looks great to me. We have proper clearance
with our chain. It’s nice and straight, durable. It’s not going to break. It’s
not going to crack off your bike and leave you on
the side of the road. Check one more thing off the list,
a handful more bits of fab work on this bike and it will be ready to
tear down for a powder coat paint. It will be on the road.
Summer is coming. [music]

14 comments on “Motorcycle Battery Box Install How-To on a Hardtail Triumph Bobber

  1. I think a weld nut under that battery strap would have made more sense and looked better but good job anyway πŸ™‚

  2. Great videoπŸ‘πŸΌ love the look with that rear wheel, what size is that wheel looks just right. Have you thought about doing a video of building A whole custom bike? From start to finish? A big project but that would be something special.

  3. Thanks Tyler for a real nice entertaining and informative video. I'm not too far behind you guys. As you say, summers coming! Cheers from UK!

  4. Durable, probably. Looks great, not really. Functional, yes.
    Why not weld that nut for the strap in place, and then never worry about it again?

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