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Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Replacement

Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Replacement


Hi, I’m Eric from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.com and today i’m going to show you change wheel bearings. We’re going to do that today using our Tusk Bearing Removal Tool. Some things we’re going to need today. We need some good high-quality grease. Some good high quality bearings. We sell both Pivot Works and All Balls. And some contact cleaner. The Tusk Bearing Removal Tool comes with different sized collets so you can remove bearings ranging from 8mm to 30mm I.D. To demonstrate this we’re gonna go ahead
and pick the collet that is closest to the inside diameter of the bearing. Slide that in, and we’ll thread in the spreader bolt which will spread the fingers against the inner race of the bearing. Then we’ll go ahead and attach the slide hammer and slide it
out. We’re going to start today by removing the spacer on a KTM hub. We’re going to go ahead and pick a collet that is just slightly smaller than the spacer. We’re going to slide it in and spread the fingers. With the spreader bolt we’re going to attach the slide hammer and pull it out. On KTM’s the spacer is more of a press
fit. Other models you wouldn’t need to do this step. That slides right out and its exposed are outer seal. We’re just going to go ahead and use a flat blade screwdriver to pop that out. They normally come out pretty easy. Once the seal is removed, go ahead and check for any bearing retainers. Sometimes there’s a clip, sometimes a threaded piece. Different bikes have different sorts of retainers. Some don’t have any at all. The retainer must be removed to get the bearing out. Now we’re going to go ahead and choose our collet that is once again just slightly smaller than the inner race of the bearing. If you use a collet that’s considerably smaller than the bearing and
try to use the spreader bolt it’s possible to break the fingers off. So you need to make sure and get as close to the right diameter as possible. We’re going to go ahead and slide our slide hammer on it again. This is going to take more force. Go ahead and turn the wheel over and repeat the steps for the other side Be careful on some rear wheels, you’ll have two bearings on the
sprocket side. It’s a lot easier to remove those one at
a time then trying to pull both of them together. As we prepare for reassembly, we want to make sure everything is clean. Use some contact cleaner. Make sure there’s no old rust and residue. Install your center spacer. We’ve already installed the bearings on the other side at this point. We’re going to go ahead and once again grease the hub up so the bearing will slide in a little easier. It won’t hang up on anything. As we install this we need to be really careful not to apply any force to the inner race. So as we tap this in with a hammer make
sure we’re just hitting on the outside race. And of course we want it to go in as level as possible As you can see I’m not hitting it, I’m just barely tapping it. Now we’re going to use a large socket and once again we just want to make sure we just touch on the outer race of that bearing. Any force that’s applied to the inner race is going to weaken your bearing Go ahead and seat that down. You’ll be able to hear the different sound when it is seated. At this point you’d reinstall any retaining clips if your bike was equipped. We’re going to go ahead and lube up the seal And most of the time you can just use your fingers to press that in. Now you’re ready for your spacer. And you are complete. The Tusk Bearing Remover also works great for blind bearings such that you would find in an engine case. There’s no way to really knock that out
so it needs to be pulled out, so here we’re finding the collet that ‘s just slightly smaller than the inner race. Threading in the spreader bolt. Attaching the slide hammer. And pulling it out. This makes a bearing that was nearly impossible to remove an easy task.

100 comments on “Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Replacement

  1. you are a great mechanic. i dont even need to do any of these things but i cannot stop watching. ive watched almost every video. I feel with these videos i could take my whole engine apart and put it back together in 9 minutes lol. great videos man. you are GREAT at what you do. Don't stop!

  2. @250Trojan – We ship to Europe. Check out our website for information on international shipping. thanks

  3. @treyshepard – it shouldn't. make sure you have new seals and make sure the bearings are greased.

  4. @Solefresh345 – I assume you mean the "motion pro" retainer removal tool. As long as it fits the teeth of the retaining ring in your hub, it should work. Don't let it jump out or you will strip it. if it is that stuck, you may want to put a little heat on it with a propane torch (don't get hotter than 200 degress F – water boiling) to loosen it up.

  5. @paintballer2X5 – I have used it on my 2006 YZ several times. Are you sure you are doing it right? The front bearing has an ID of 20mm and the rear is 22mm. Your 20mm collet is adjustable enough to work on both.

  6. @cranklj – I don't, but they are real easy. I assume you have a KTM. We sell a motion pro tool that makes it simple (part # 1271700001 on our site). or you can use a socket with a slightly smaller OD than the bearing. Pull the seals with a screwdriver and pound the bearing out with the socket and hammer.

  7. @sassyweber – It is super easy with our Tusk ATV axle bearing removal tool ( part # 129686 on our site). It is just like the tool in our video but bigger and heavier.

  8. @LukeL138 – Most the time the bearing is the same on both sides. If not, it should be pretty obvious which one goes on which side, because they will be different sizes. The only time there is an "up", is if only one side of the bearing has a seal. The seal would go outwards.

  9. It is great that you guys post videos with these speacial tips that save a tone of time. I have been ordering parts and tools from you for years and have never let me down. Keep up the good work

  10. If I needed to replace the innerbase assembly with a new one. Could I open the fork while it is still in the triple clamps and swap them or would there be an issue with bleeding etc. [have already replaced seals & topped up oils

  11. @tdneVmo – No, they try to make them the same, that way the balls in the bearing ride as straight as possible.

  12. @RockyMountainATVMC Hmm can't find my post.
    I got told something else.. I googled it, and other people says that as well. I have a scooter, and the bearings won't stop humming, no matter what i do. Maybe a bad rim?

  13. hey whats a good bearing company i use pivot works but they lasted only 12 hr and my rewheel has some play only a very little but still

  14. @billyman1221 Hmmm. Pivot works is usually pretty good stuff. It is hard to beat OE bearings though. i hope we get our diagrams up soon. If you can get the OE part #'s, i can almost guarentee we have them in stock. Just call in with the OE part #.

  15. @Trevsker7777 – Do you mean "you don't need to hit it with a hammer IF you have a bearing press."

  16. of my part you get 100 point.Great video.In the future i will buy this tool because i saw as is more eficciency.Thank you very much

  17. ***NEW DISCOVERY***
    Get a heat gun or even a hair dryer and heat the hub up to 110-120 degrees or higher and the bearing will pop out with little effort. Same thing for installing new bearings.

  18. can i buy and install made-in-China bearing from ebay? Is it safe? It is cheaper than Japanese made? Let me know. thanks

  19. A lot of the japanese copanies source parts from China and they are real good. However, there is a lot of poor stuff from there too. It depends on quality control and standards. Who knows what you are getting from a no-name brand on ebay. Could be good, but could be bad. OE bearings seem to be the best. Check out the OE diagrams on our site.

  20. hello dude Eric, I saw your product also in AMAZON. Time to delivery buying from amazon is the same if I buy direct from your rockymountain web site ? How many days to shipping is US ? I'm from abroad. Thanks.

  21. It depends where you are. Direct from us would actually be faster because there may be a delay from Amazon to us (both orders ship out of our warehouse).

  22. I have a 1988 Suzuki RM125j. In the manual and even online part schematics don't show i have seals just the spacer and two bearings..is this correct? I ordered a bearing kit and it just had the bearings ..no seals. This is for the front wheel.

  23. When installing the bearing with the socket.. why not flip the socket around so no pressure is possible to the inner race to damage it?

  24. How do you know when it's time to replace the bearing? I've got 4k on my WR250R,and plan to take it on a 5k ride next summer. I have re-greased the bearings last winter,but I'd sure like to know when to replace them? Thanks

  25. We just went and checked out the service manual and it said change as required but a 5 thousand mile ride is a pretty long and wheel bearing are pretty cheap and easy to change so my opinion would be to replace them. You can check the bearing by removing the wheel and running the bearing with your hand checking for pitting or axial movement/ play in the bearing.

  26. Wow,thanks for the quick reply;with service like that I'll be sure to buy my bearings,and all necessary tools from you guys. cheers

  27. If you happen to have a mig welder instead of the tusk multi bearing removal tool just weld a bolt head onto the inner race, put a nut on the bolt threads and slide hammer it out

  28. Problem , every time i try to knock out the bearing the collet comes loose from the bearing… i tried to warm up my hub around the bearing but it doesnt really help….

    The hub is from a cb750k6 '76…..

    do i need to 'lock' the collet with wrenches ? im afraid i will damage the collet with teh wrenches…

    please help/tips ?

  29. After you have removed the retainers the bearings should come right out with the correct sized collet and slide hammer. It's important that you use the correct sized collet. If the one you are using keeps coming back out try moving up a size. Use a good penetrating lubricant and tighten the collet down using wrenches. You shouldn't need to crank it down but snug it with wrenches so it doesn't have any play in the race. You can feel when it is snug and stops inside the bearing.

  30. Some things fit in the oven too. Good for some ATVs. Heat the hub/carrier and freeze your bearings before installation.

  31. Bahaha, this special tool is $89.95, forget it. Again, show us how to do it without special tools or don't bother at all. I'm talking, a screwdriver and a hammer, or any other common tools an average handyman might have. Nobody can buy a special tool for every special job on the planet, that's absurd and ridiculous and prohibitively expensive. The more I work on vehicles, the more I see that there is an ocean of poor engineering out there… these things should of been designed better

  32. How I did this without any special tool, on a rusted in bearing: find a rod, slightly less in diameter than your axle. Put it through the hole, and then catch it on the inside lip of the bearing on the other side. Whack it with a hammer working your rod around the perimeter of the far side bearing, pushing the far side bearing out. Use PB blaster, though really you just need some good whacks. Also I soaked other bearings that were stuck to the axle in gasoline… gasoline penetrates anything

  33. In my case, my special tool, after trying various rods that were way too thin, was an old handle from a tire jack, that had a flared end that just barely fit through the bearing hole with some pounding of the hammer. The problem is that dang spacer on the inside doesn't leave much of a lip for you to catch, so the closer your rod is to the diameter to the bearing inside hole while still being able to go through, the better.

  34. It's hard to make a video showing how to remove bearings with tools that any average joe would have simply because everyone is going to have different tools. Like in your case you had to use an old rod from a tire jack instead of a screwdriver. Point being that everyones application is going to be a little different. This video is simply showing you the use of this tool and how it makes the job easy with less risk of ruining parts.

  35. This tool is actually pretty cool. It has mulitple uses such as removing wheel bearings but it's also a blind bearing puller for those case bearings that otherwise would be nearly impossible to remove but it also works on steering stem bearings which can be a huge pain to remove so this tool is not one that you would use once and be done.

  36. Good point, I have been working on elevators for 32 years. Its ALWAYS easier, quicker , better to use the right tools. This is a great kit

  37. You sit on your garage floor bearing the hell out of the bearing with an old extension and then you will tell us all you wish you had a slide hammer.

  38. Actually it worked pretty good, and didn't cost me a thing. The reason I had a lot of trouble was the previous idiot owner had left the motorbike out in the rain for YEARS… leaning up against a fence. You should never leave a motorbike out in the rain, it does BAD THINGS ™. If mine hadn't been completely rusted in, it probably wouldn't of taken so much trouble at all… just poke a rod through the hole and tap them out with a hammer from the other side, working your way aroround

  39. You'll just have to remove the clutch basket nut so to do that you'll just have to remove your right crankcase cover and then lock up the motor to back the clutch basket nut off. Once that's off you can remove the whole outer basket assembly… You can refer to your service manual for further instructions and also our bottom end rebuild videos will show you the proper dis-assembly

  40. @Joe FYYFF The snap ring or bearing retainers main purpose is to basically locate that bearing along with the center spacer and the other bearing. It gives those parts something to press against and sit in the correct position. Most bikes don't use this design but some of them will have them

  41. you don't need such fancy EXPENSIVE bearing puller for wheel bearing.
    All you need are " short length of a square 2inch by 2inch wood of length about the diameter of your wheel where you can rest your wheel flat onto this.

    First remove the bearing seals/ snap rings or whatever that restrain the bearing. This can be done either with a fancy seal hook / screw driver or circlip pliers, your choice.

    Use a drift of diameter a 1/4 of the diameter of the I.D of your bearing and starting from one end of the wheel, carefully look for a step inside the wheel bearing opening ,where the bush adapter meets the inside face of one of the bearing on the other end and tap this step.

    Move around this step and push the bush spacer to one side and tap again on the inside face of the bearing on the other end of the wheel. You need to do a few hard taps on the bearing to remove it.

    Once done, remove the bush spacer and you can easily see the other bearing on the other end.

    Tap this bearing out using a pipe or the drift you have been using from one end to the other . Viola !.done

    You also do not need expensive bearing seating tools to seat the new bearings.

    2 methods. 1) freeze bearing and heat wheel hub to seat the bearing by use a appropriate sized socket to impact at the OUTER race of the bearing to seat it or
    2) Use appropriate sized sockets and washers of size about that of your O.D of your bearing and a appropriate sized length of bolt and screws the opposing nut at both ends of the wheel hub to seat the bearing in. Viola

  42. Yea that tool is real overkill for wheel bearings. A simple bearing punch and peen hammer is all u need to get the bearing out..

  43. im working on putting an all balls bearing kit in my 2012 ktm rear hub and the bearings are thicker than stock making it so i cant put the snap ring back in. i tried finishing the job without it and everything seems really tight and with the wheel back on the bike the rear wheel is really hard to spin. any help would be great.

  44. Heating up the hub to about 200-250 degrees make the bearings much easier to pull out because aluminum expand more than steel at high temperatures.

  45. On my 02 kx 125, there is a cap that goes over the hub seal. It's supposed to slide over the top of the wheel spacer, so when the spacer goes into the hub, it covers the seal. My issue is that I cant for the life of me get that damn seal cover over the top of the wheel spacer. This is a shot in the dark, but have you worked on anything like this before? Is there an easy way to get it on without breaking the seal cover in half? Thanks!

  46. At 4:05 you can clearly see this guy is using the wrong socket size. It doesnt cover the whole diameter. No matter how careful you are you can damage the bearing if youre not hitting just the outer race. Plus hes putting pressure on the inner race by having the socket that way. He has it upside down. It should be the other way so no contact to the inner race is made. Best thing to do is use the right tool. IDK why everybody looks for shortcuts. You can get a cheap $20 bearing/seal driver on ebay that works great and lasts forever. I have one. I would not follow this guys advice.

  47. This is great! I also changed the wheel bearings of my motorcycle. Before I installed it, I made sure that I has a lot of grease in it. I also found a solution on how to secure the bearing and have it seated tightly on a slightly loose bearing housing. You can see it on my video. https://tinyurl.com/y29qfukv

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