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Super Tidy Handlebars, Noisy Bike Chains & Tyre Seating | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

Super Tidy Handlebars, Noisy Bike Chains & Tyre Seating | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech


(mechanism clanking) – Welcome to the GCN Tech Clinic, where I try and solve your
bike related problems, that you leave down there in the comment section
below or alternatively on all forms of social
media, using the hashtag #ASKGCNTECH So if you’ve got something
troubling you, let me know. Right, with no further ado, let’s crack on with the
first question this week that comes in from Blaz Meznar who says, ” Hi
wondering if there is any way to make mechanical cables on the cockpit look as neat as electrical. It just looks so good when
the cockpit is so clean.” – Right Blaz. Couple of things you could do here. Firstly, before you go ahead
and put your handlebar tape on over the bars, actually root those cables
to the both brake and gears, as closely as possible together. So like parallel, and tape them on with
some insulation tape. Now some people like to wrap it fully on. I just like to give a couple of bits, and just hold it firmly in place. That’s going to give a
neat appearance, really, of the cables underneath
the actual handlebar tape. But, you say about the front, it looks a little bit cluttered, I mean really that’s just
something you’ve got to accept, that you’ve got four cables there. You could I guess, heat shrink
the cables together as well, and then perform the
cuts of the heat shrink at the last possible minute
so they try and remain as one big bit, instead
of two smaller bits. But ultimately, you’re not going
to get that super clean look that you really desire, I don’t think, unless of course you go
to SRAM and eTAP setup, which is wireless, or course. Right, now we’ve got Chris Seilern who says,
“Hi John great videos. Thanks, I’m a real fan. – No problem Chris. I have an Ultegra Di2
with 52-36 chainrings and an 11-30 cassette. Unfortunately, it is always
slightly noisy in the big ring and normally quiet in the small ring. I have tried re-indexing, (myself and at the LBS)
oiling , cleaning etc. and I’ve even checked
the chain and cassette, and they look okay. The front mech does
not seem to be touching the chain either. Any ideas as to what it might be? Love this question. Chris, I’m about to call you Craig then, but right name. So, I’ve noticed this actually
on the latest generations of Ultegra and on also Dura-Ace. I’ve not tried it on the 105 yet. And I’ve also asked some pro mechanics if they’ve noticed it being
ever so slightly noisier than the previous generations. And they agreed, or at least the ones I’ve asked. Where as loads of people out there, don’t actually notice a
difference, whatsoever. But I’ve got a feeling, it could well be, because on the shadow style derailuer. what you’ve got now, there’s an increased
amount of spring tension, in the cage of the rear neck, and that, basically, seems
to be causing that noise. I’m pretty sure that’s what it is. It just seems to be something
with the jockey lug, pulling those jockey
wheels, and the chain. I think that’s where that
noise is coming from, rather than the actual chain set. I want people to get involved, actually, in the comments section down below. Have they noticed the
latest generation of Shimano is slightly, slightly nosier, it’s not an annoying noise or anything, it’s just a kind of a chain noise. Is it noisier than the previous one? Get involved in the
comments section down below, because I’m pretty sure that’s what it is, just that increased tension of the spring. Next up is Vishwa Dev who says, ”
Every time I take a tire out of the rim to change the inner tube and put it back, I find a slight wobble in the tire when I give it a spin. Is it because I’ve not put
the tire back on properly, or is there a technique
in which I can make sure the tire is perfectly
inline without the wobble? I guess it’s not properly
seated into the rim. Right, Vishwa. There isn’t really a technique for this. This sort of problem, I
guess you could call it, has only been around I can
bet the last five years. Sense to be, basically, that the tires and the rim interfaces
have become more suitable for tubeless tires. I reckon you’ve probably got a tubeless compatible rim, there, that allows the tires to pop into place. So, when you’re putting
that inner tube in, make sure it’s fully inside of the tire and inflate the inner tube inside of that, and make sure that your inner tube itself, is not bulging out between the side wall, and the actual bead of the tire and the inner side wall of the rim. What I like to do, is
not go ahead and inflate, and just hope it pops into place, but actually try and massage
or massage the tire into place, and get that to actually find
its way on the rim correctly, rather then allowing you to pump away and… I never liked the big
popping or clicking noise. that the tire makes, but there’s no real fail
safe technique I guess, you could use something.. Some people out there use
like washing up liquid on the wheel, on the inside of the rim, just to try to help it slide into place, But then you have to wash it off, so that that way of course you can break, your breaks aren’t going to work, because you’ve got soap on them. Also you can use talcum powder, that’s something which
I put inside sometimes, to try to help them slide into place, but give that a go and hopefully, you won’t find it so
troublesome going forward. Next up we’ve got Nur Muhhamad Hanif who says, ” Hey John, I’m planning on converting
my 2x road bike to a 1x. The only deraileur with a
clutch mechanism Shimano offer for road bikes, is the Ultegra RX. I was wondering if the
mountain bike rear deraileurs are cross compatible with
the road gruppo parts. They all have a similar Shadow design, and have a clutch mechanism, but for less than half of the
price of the Ultegra RX rd. I was wondering if I could
get the same function, and maybe the performance
from the Deore instead.” – Alright love this one,
yep possible to do it. Probab;y give it away really. Secrets that some people
don’t want me to give away but yeah , you get yourself a Wolf Tooth Tanpan – Wolf Tooth Components Which goes on to the deraaileur body, so when your cable goes
in your anti cable, instead of it going all the way, you put this little roller, it’s a wheel there instead, and what that does is
it adjusts the amount of cable that your lever is giving, and it means it works with
amazing point rear back. (smack) Thank me later. Next up is, Popula who’s says, ” Hi
GCN, my sora R3000 groupset can shift up the cassette by three gears but only on the small cogs (11-16) on the bigger cogs it
will only shift two gears. The third click can be forced
by pulling the cable by hand, Tightening the cable
just ruins the indexing.” – Right, (smack) this ones sounds like it’s probably your limit screw. So it works down at the
higher end of the block, to the 11 to 16. So I
reckon you need to turn the H screw in a way. Because as your gank through the gears, the cable tension is becoming…. It’s very, very hard to explain this. The (murmur) gank screw is pulled through the cable
again and just tighten that up. (sighs) and then it indexes the gears. It may well work okay. I don’t see any problem why it wouldn’t. What’s happened previously, in the previous steps, is just trying to explain this
in the easiest way possible, is you are taking up
the slack in the cable and eventually to runs out, and you don’t have any more room for it. It is very very difficult to explain. So go on ahead, play with the H screw, and just adjust the cables, index it. What you need to consider
here too is actually, It sounds really, really daff because I know right you thinking self, but I want to be able to
change those three gears, but how often do you need
to do that on your bike? But I’m a real perfectionist
when it comes it, is something doesn’t work properly, I will faffer and I’ll not go to bed, I will waste so much time
trying to solve something. But you don’t really need to ever, be able to change those 3 gears at once. But do those steps I’ve mentioned, and I reckon it will be sorted for you. Or alternatively it could
well be your mech hanger, slightly out of line, and it means that once that cable , once the deraileur, works its way over, its just got more work to do , but with the same a amount of cable cord. Bikes the are not as
easy as everyone thinks. Next up we have got [email protected] @tankiematelow Sep 24 who says, “Can I replace my Tiagra
Fc=4700 Crankshaft with a 105 FC-R7000 without issues, Trek Checkpoint ALR BB86. 5. Thanks”=Yeah no problems at all mate, both of them are Shamano
and Hollow Tech 2, go ahead and do it, ikt will work fine. Next up is Al who says, ” Is it me
or are road disc brakes way more tedious to keep running nicely as opposite to mtb discs? Rotor rub , ticking after
heavy breaking… Why? Why? – Okay I suppose one of the reasons that, Maybe road bikes, disc
brakes give you a hard time , because that basically the
reservoir on the levers, on the shifters on a road bike, is a bit smaller then that on a mountain , bike traditionally, and what you are asking it
to do is the same operation . It’s kind of a scaled down version , of what the mountain bike setup is, but I think we need to
lay off disc brakes, they are not actually that
troublesome whatsoever, I just think as technology and actual mechanics and the Building , off disc brakes on road
bike improved as goes on. They will be without that problem, Just like mountain bikes disc
brakes when they started, they had their problems and they’ve gone. And road bikes are they really
(murmur) problems solved? I can go on-and-on about that. But I think give them a
bit of an easier time out. The Neon Matt now and
ultimate one this week. TheNeonMatt says” I have some
wheels with a worn out braking surface in the garage , Is
it safe for me yo use them” – Nice question, not really
thought about this before. I wouldn’t advise it, the reason being, if your brakes are worn out ot means, that the structural
integrity of the whole wheel is not going to be as intended, so where the spokes are
pulling from the rims , from that area eyelets, they then can be under more stress, then normal leading to
a failure of collapse . And absolutely not something
I would ever advise. What you could do though is just buy yourself a cheap rear end wheel. That’s what I did many many years ago, just bought myself a really cheap basic , I think it was like e
a !0 speed Hubble mat, I just put turbo trainers tires
on that and just used those. And that was my dedicated turbo wheel, but don’t use something that
is basically broken already. – Right okay. Once and for all, anything 10 speed and up.
Road or mountain bike, There will be people saying,
Yes it dose, I have done it.” That’s absolutely fine , I’m sure it is, but some of us maybe slightly fussu. I don’t know I will
leave that one with you, but what you can get is Wolf Tooth Tanpan difficult one fpr me
to say for some reason. Again adjust it the actual
cable and get way with.. That really is about all I can suggest… Yes in the past people have done all sorts trying to root the cable
in a different path of the cable clamp and things
to try to get it to work. But I’ve been told those
WolfTooth things work pretty well. Right, like I said. If you’ve
got yourself a tech problem, leave it with me down there
in the comment section below. And I’ll do my best to answer
it in and upcoming episode. Remember as well to share
this video with your friends. Don’t forget to check out the GCN shop @shop.Globalcycling.com For more great videos
c;ick just down here. Aqnd I’ll be back soon
with another Tech Clinic.

50 comments on “Super Tidy Handlebars, Noisy Bike Chains & Tyre Seating | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

  1. I have the noise at the 105 level too. It's at the upper jockey wheel on mine. I took it apart a while ago and the problem seemed to be that the bushing interface has a tendency to rattle under certain chain tensions. When I had it in my hand I could reproduce the noise a bit by moving the wheel back and forth over the bushing. On the bike, it only happens in the big ring, and it gets quieter as I move down the cassette and reduce chain tension. I lightly greased them when I had them apart and it seemed to help a little. I haven't tried this, but if chain tension is part of the problem, it might also help to use a slightly longer chain. Perhaps our chain-sizing methodology needs an update. I suspect a different jockey wheel is the real solution though.

  2. Re Ultegra chain noise – I too am using R8070 Ultegra with 52/36 and 11-30 cassette and have faffed around for hours trying to resolve the chain noise – Ive degreased and loobed it , replaced the chain with kmc chain and reverted back to shimano chain – all in vain. Its got me beat – so guess I gotta live with it. Tried most of the suggestions below but the noise remains. Ride with it.

  3. I have the road tire seating problem when replacing a tube after a flat and using a CO2 cartridge to fill it. Also, I’m using a clincher tyre (Conti 5000) on a tubeless rim. It’s really irritating : /

  4. 100% I have R8000 Di2 and Dura Ace 9000 Di2 the Dura ace is quite compared to the Ultegra I thought it was down to the jockey wheels but since updated to 9150 Di2 front and rear mech and there is chain noise now.

  5. Absolute bike tech novice. I have started to get chain rub when I get out the saddle. It's always at the same place in the pedal stroke and goes away when I am seated. Presumably/hopefully this is something quite simple but as I said … Bike tech novice.

  6. I been seating clincher tyres by inflating to 10-20 psi, the bouncing the whole assembly on ground. Been doing this since mid 80's.

  7. I wonder if the guy with a tyre bulge is pushing the valve up into the tyre fully, then pulling it back down before full inflation?

  8. #askgcntech Jon, how do i calibrate a Right hand side only powermeter? The instructions show a LHS only powermeter in the 6 oclock position but when i do this my RHS meter is reading 20-30W lower than both my wahoo kickr core and my 4iii powermeter.

  9. It should be possible to route the cables inside the bars, through the stem, down the steerer tube, out the bottom and into the bottom of the downtube.
    Though that would add some rather tight bends, especially between the tyre and fork.
    neater still would be to have a hole in the front of the steerer to allow cables through from the stem, then out of a 180 degree slot in the steerer straight into the frame tubes.
    This would significantly weaken the steerer tube, though, and runs the risk of guillotining the cables if the bars turn too far.
    I decided against it when I built my own bike, which had an integral stem so would have made it slightly easier than usual.

  10. Noise on my R8020 as well, even though my chainset is FSA SL-K with 46/30. It's set up perfectly so I've been wondering if it's FSA problem, apparently not.

  11. Another option for the 1x conversion is the wolf tooth roadlink. Means you don't have to replace your exisiting road mech! https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink

  12. Regarding changing 3 gears at once (and specifically "not needing" to be able to do it): I suppose I agree regarding a strict "need", but I personally find it really useful when pulling up to traffic lights, and wishing to change into a gear suitable for pulling away again. I really notice it even when switching from a bike with 3-gear skipping vs 2-gear!

  13. Advice on 'worn out' rims seems unduly conservative! (I have lots of experience of using rims beyond the advised marked limit, no problems so far!). However, on a turbo, if the rim did crack, what's the worst that would happen? Not a lot I would submit….. Nick W

  14. I have been using 9170 dura-ace groups for a year and I can say it is way noisier than 9070. The difference is obvious. I have tried different brand chains and lubricants but no improvement so far.

  15. The new drivetrains are slightly louder due to the aforementioned increased chain tension. It’s not that bad. See your doctor about that OCD.

  16. I've noticed slightly more noise on the big ring with 105 (5800 series). That certainly explains why it is louder on the middle gears of the cassette than the higher gears. Glad to know it isn't a mechanical issue I couldn't find.

  17. Wondering about bike stiffness. I'm and always will be a larger rider 215–240. What carbon aero bikes handle the larger riders the best? The hang up I've had, is with disc brakes. Anytime I put flex out of the saddle the brakes rub like crazy and definitely slow me down, which for a bigger guy in climbs or even sprints can be quite bothersome. Thanks in advance!!! #AskGCNTech

  18. I'm so glad to hear this about the noisier big ring! It's been driving me nuts forever, glad to know that it's just normal. Waxing the chain does quiet it down for about 200 miles

  19. Another question for you, John:- on my winter bike, I run a Shimano 5700 105 groupset, with short arm rear derailleur, 50/34 chainset, and a 12-30 cassette. (All passed on from my summer bike, which I upgraded to the new R7000 groupset, with an 11-32 rear cassette). I don't know whether it's my increasing age, the extra weight of the bike, or just that I've got used to the 32 tooth bottom gear on the summer bike, but I'm feeling a real need to drop the bottom gear on the winter bike to 32, or even 34. The cassette is no problem, but my difficulty is identifying which derailleur I can use. The current short-arm derailleur won't, its right in its limit at 30 (not surprising when Shimano list the maximum at 28, the long-arm equivalent doesn't appear to have greater capability:- and I believe that Shimano 10 speed MTB derailleurs use a different pull ratio, so are not compatible with my shifters.

    Any bright ideas? Thanks, Nick Wells, North Yorkshire

  20. Not 1x (I have a 50/34 on the front) but to get MTB gearing on my Diverge, I have Shimano CS-HG500 11-42T Deore Cassette and Shimano Deore M591 9 Speed Mech. The road shifters are Tiagra from 2015. Apparently the older (pre-shadow) 9 speed MTB mechs have the same pull as road 10speed. It mostly works, but I have trouble with sprocket 6 as the chain tends to jump over this one. To be honest, the indexing was not great on the original Tiagra mech. I know I should have got that working before the switch, but just ran out of time. I had a 'date' with Hardknott Pass and wanted the easy gears. I think my issue is the hanger as the threads are damaged where the mech screws in. While the hanger may be straight, the thread damage may be pulling the mech out of line. I just need to source a new hanger, which due to the SCS debacle is not that simple these days.

  21. #AskGCNTech  This may be an opportunity for some science!  Is there ever a point with a strong enough tailwind that it makes more sense to not be aerodynamic?  For instance, would it ever be more beneficial to "sit-up" on the bike so the wind can push you more from behind, as opposed to being down in an aero position?

  22. I recently got a new pair of FFWD carbon wheels. After around 400 km now the brakes sometimes squeak like a pig at a butchers. It‘s not this vibration sound I know from my old aloi rims. Already toed in the pads but didn‘t solve the problem. I use the pads that came with the wheels. Any ideas? BTW love the channel. Good work!

  23. Aaaaah, thank you for the comments about the noise of the new ultegra groupset. Have the mechanical version with an RX mech and it‘s really loud in some sprockets. Also that it‘s so hard to get the wheel in and out is getting on my nerves. No, I prefer the old 6800 on my other bike… Looks are not everything!

  24. #AskGCNTech Shimano Tourney A070 3 speed front derailleur issue: I followed step by step the user manual when I replaced the factory cable to a Shimano Optislick. When the bike is on the stand I can shift in all 3 gears easy and correct. I jump on the bike and then I can't shift from the middle to the low gear. I put the bike back on the stand, adjust again the cable tension, all works fine, I jump on the bike and now I can't shift on the big ring. I have a jagwire cable adjuster installed inline – could the problem be the adjuster that is not helping at all?

  25. What a ridiculous questions 😉 the Indian sora guy get some reasonable set, the other Indian get some massage (yourself and then try again), the first question made my day at all 😜😝🙋

  26. Thanks! Yes I can confirm that the new 105 is indeed noisy, hadn't really noticed it though until you pointed it out, now it's all I hear! Arrrrrrrrr

  27. SOAP! The guy who can't get his tire seated correctly just needs to use a little dish soap on the bead. This is an ancient fix that you want to do anyway because it helps prevent pinching the tube too.

  28. To the guy asking about disc brake noise, ticking, etc., most road bike caliper flat frame mounts are not machined correctly to the perpendicular of the thru axle, and thus not aligned to the disc. Park tool makes a caliper flat mount checking/facing tool but it's over $500 and most shops don't have one, much less ever heard of one.

  29. Hi, Is it me or is the new Ultegra front mech not as good as the previous one? I'm having trouble getting it to have range without rubbing. What I mean is I can only get it to work in the either in the little ring and the large sprocket (39-30) but then when I move it to the large ring it won't move across enough to let the chain into the 11 sprocket without it rubbing. (Its the bottom 3 sprockets without rubbing.) It will only go down to just pass the middle of the cassette. Or I can set it up so it doesn't rub in the 52-11 but then it will rub in the 36-30. (Or the top 3 sprockets) Hope I've explained it ok. Thanks

  30. Before taking aluminium wheels with worn brake tracks out of use we were obviously happy to ride them, so they don't just suddenly become useless – even though they can fail if you take them too far. Quite a few rims have wear marks so we can change them before they become dangerous. I check the thickness of the rim using an Iwanson gauge. Google the allowable thickness/stress on sidewalls. I've rebuilt worn rims onto my disc braked wheels without problem. Note that these were aluminium – I don't know about carbon. I once had a rim fail – the side fractured and the rear wheel locked when the tyre jammed on the frame. If that happened on a trainer I don't think you'd be injured and I don't see how the wheel would collapse. Quite small deflections of the rim will de-stress the spokes and nullify any stored energy. I think John is commenting with an eye on his insurance.

  31. #AskGCNTech Hi Jon, love the show and can't wait for the next videos, always full of good advice ! I have bought a pair of Recon Jet Smart Glasses back in May 2019, and I've been enjoying it until last week, when they started powering up and down randomly, sometimes in mid or a training session… As a tech Support engineer, I've tried to check on the problem as it is not battery related (installed a brand new unused one), and I'm coming down to a bit of corrosion on the connectors between the computer part of the smart glass and the copper bits at the very end of the lens !
    My vendor refused to take that into warranty though I've been insisting heavily… Thing is that it is probably sweat related and happened though believe me, I've been extra careful to wiping out any sweat drops after each training session. I cannot find spare parts either… Do you have any idea how I can sort this out at all ? Thanks for any suggestions you may have and keep up with the good show 🙂

  32. Durace 9150 Di2 here… also noisy when on the big ring! The strange thing is that at the beginning I was not recognising this difference… maybe I was not paying attention due to the joy to ride the new bike 🙂 🙂 🙂
    at least this comment from John confirms that at the end I'm not dumb 😀

  33. After I fixed/tuned the screw limit on the front mech my hub sounds weird(dunno if it's the hub), pls help
    #AskGCNTech

  34. #AskGCNTech I have an Cannondale R2000 with Shimano Ultegra 6500 group set. Everything still works, however the shifter controlling the rear derailleur has worn to the point where when shifting up from the lower gears (bigger cogs) it will shift up 3. I compensate by immediately shifting down 2, but this is obviously less than ideal. Which modern shifters would best replace my worn 9 speed STI shifters?
    P.S. Love you guys! Please keep up the great work!

  35. I got a Tarmac with Ultegra DI2 in May and i experienced a louder noise than usual. Also wondered if i made a mistake with the setup but after a few weeks i was sure that its „a feature“. First world problems…

  36. #AskGCNTech Hi Jon. As we all know, the jockey wheels can get very dirty on our bikes. When cleaning my bike I like to apply particular attention to cleaning them. Would there be any issues if I started to apply lube directly to the jockey wheels whilst I'm lubricating my chain?

  37. Ref the tyre issue, I pump half way, give the tyre a wiggle all the way around. Pump to 100% then deflate half way. then pump back to 100%. Seems to get the tyre seated well.

  38. Noisy chain on R8000. Yes, I noticed this as I had the previous 6800 Ultrgra and now have new R800 BUT since fitting Absolute Black oval rings, both the 36 and 52, the noise has reduced alot. Also, hills easier!

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