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Top 5 Tips For Cornering In The Wet | GCN’s Pro Cycling Tips

Top 5 Tips For Cornering In The Wet | GCN’s Pro Cycling Tips


– Wet conditions add a little bit of spice to cornering on road bikes. So, coming up are some things
you need to bear in mind to help you navigate
turns safely in the wet. (rock music) Lowering your tire pressure
increases the surface area of the tire that’s in
contact with the road, giving you more grip, which
is a good thing when it comes to wet roads because
wet roads are more slippery. So, if I’m setting out
on a ride and the roads area already damp, then I’ll
knock at least 10 to 15 PSI pressure out of my tires. (70s funk music) Now the type of tire that you’re using can also play a big part. Although, funny enough, on
road bike tires, actually tread pattern is not
really an issue and that’s because the speed that we’re going and the narrowness of the tire means that we’re never really ever
going to be aquaplaning. But what is an issue is tire compound. So whilst most good quality
tires will have similar levels of grip in the
dry, there can be a big disparity between
manufacturers in the wet, and that is down to tire compound. We’ll also talk about tire width as well, because it goes back
to that previous point about the contact patch. A wider tire will give you
a greater contact patch with the road than a narrow tire, and it will also,
remember, allow you to drop the pressure even further. So the difference between
a 25 and a 28 mil tire can be quite significant. You can drop the pressure
probably by about 20 psi. So if you normally run 90
on your 25s you can probably get away with 70 on your 28s. And actually if I let you
into a little secret here, despite being 72 kilos, I’m running 50 psi on my 28mm tires at the
moment and it feels amazing. And very grippy. (jazz music) If the level of grip on
asphalt or tarmac is lessened in the wet, then it’s
almost nonexistent on other surfaces like drain covers
or also white lines. Now, you should always
look ahead when cornering or descending, so that you
can find the right line, but it’s even more important in the wet, so that you can avoid
crossing such surfaces. And if you can’t avoid them
at all, then just make sure that you straighten the
bike up, just momentarily, as you do go over them
and that way you’ll lessen your chances of actually slipping out. (slow rock music) Now, unless you’re running
discs, you are going to have to bear in mind that braking takes longer in the wet on rim brakes. And even if you are using disc brakes, to be fair, as we’ve already mentioned, there is simply less
traction on wet roads. So slowing down will always
take a bit of extra time. To remedy this, what you need to do then is just start braking a
little bit earlier for corners to allow you to slow down to
the appropriate speed in time. And a great little tip,
actually, if you are using rim brakes is to drag the
brakes, even before you want to slow down and
that’ll keep the rim surface free of water, so when you need them, they’re going to become more effective. Now, an added thing to
bear in mind, is that while it’s always important to be
able to slow down quickly, it’s even more important
to do it for corners because you really want to avoid turning and braking at the same time. ‘Cause that’ll really push your luck when it comes to traction. And then also remember,
as well as actually not braking corners, you certainly can’t lean the bike over as far as well. Again, coming back to
that all important point that there’s just less grip
available for your tires. (jazz music) Now, a final, small, but
still significant point, and that is that if you’re
riding in a group in the wet, just give yourself a little bit more room behind the rider in front. And that’s because if they
make a hash of a corner, you’ll give yourself a
little bit more time to react and hopefully avoid meeting the same fate. It’ll also mean you get
better visibility as well ’cause you’ll be away from the
spray from their back wheel. The same is true, actually,
not just from riding with other riders of
bikes, but also if you’re commuting to work, give yourself a little bit more room
behind cars as well. So make sure you do your braking early, certainly before you
actually start turning, and that you can’t lean
the bike over quite as far. Give yourself a little
bit more room when riding in a group, and try and
avoid those extra slippery surfaces like drain
covers and white lines. And when it comes to your equipment, let a bit of pressure out your tires, and if you’ve got the choice,
run slightly wider ones with the grippiest
compound that you can find. Now, do make sure you subscribe to GCN before leaving this video. To do that, just click on the globe. If you want some more content,
we’ve got some special wet-weather videos, as well, for you. Click down there for Top
10 Wet Weather Riding Tips, over here, How to Dress
for Wet Weather Riding.

64 comments on “Top 5 Tips For Cornering In The Wet | GCN’s Pro Cycling Tips

  1. The sound that is created by braking on carbon rims sounds just like a dentist‘s drill. gets childhood dental care flashbacks WHAAAAAAAAA!!!!!

  2. Hi, I watched all of your videos and well… I have a question. Winter is comming, and well, so does cold. Where i live, it gets really cold, so iam not able to ride so much, if anything at all. So, iam wondering whether running helps cycling, and if yes, what should i perform, intervals, what kind, and so on. I would be really grateful for your response. Cheers, Klex

  3. I could've used this video couple of weeks ago when I slipped and fell while cornering a wet curve…
    Or, rather a curve with a small patch of water in the middle…
    In the summer weather…
    When it was not raining…

    I should not even attempt to ride in the rain.

  4. I let the back end jack knife into a drift and shout YIPEEE EYY YAY! …. Influenced by the fictional TDF winner Bruce Willis

  5. A puddle may be an unseen pothole.
    Wet leaves are as bad as grids/white paint.
    Get your braking done in a straight line before the corner.
    You can 'trail' the back brake into and through a corner for control but don't increase the braking pressure.
    Smooth is the key, smooth braking, smooth change in Lean angles etc.
    Don't grab handfuls of brake (unless your going to crash anyway!)
    Don't expect any Strava KOM/PB's in winter so just slow down.

  6. My rear wheel slipped at least 3 times on cattle grids last Saturday under the rain. Pretty scary the first time, after that I was crossing all of them super slowly, trying to stay orthogonal but still had a couple of slip ups (ha!).

  7. I live in Virginia and we are having a drought. Haven't seen rain here in over a month. I'll keep this lesson in mind if it ever rains again.

  8. Wider and narrower tires at same pressure have contact patches of the same area, but the patches have different shapes: the wider tires have a wider but shorter contact patch than the narrower tires; which shape is better for grip?

  9. Why does increasing the area of the contact patch increase gripping ability? Basic physics says that the force of friction only depends on the two materials and the force pushing them together (i.e. rider weight) and the surface area is irrelevant. #torqueback

  10. How do you know how grippy a tyre is, is it written on the side or is there a web site or something or just trial and error?

  11. One thing to add, you have to be more linear, by which I mean sqeeze the brakes on and off progressively. You want a soft touch. Do not snatch at them, easy on easy off and also wide sweeping arcs, no sudden movements on the bars, all about being smooth. Sudden change in speed or direction will break traction between your tyres and road surface. Think and plan a bit further ahead where you want to put the bike so you don't have to make last second direction changes.

  12. Since this is the newest video i hope someone will read my question.
    I just recently, like 2 months ago, got myself a roadbike from canyon, but after cycling in the rain i noticed that my gear rings and chain caught rust a day later. It's easy to wipe off, it's not even stuck to the bike, it just looks unpleasant for me to see it has rust on it. Anyone out here knows exactly why or what i could do against that?

  13. Watched this yesterday and thought "Seems over-cautious, I've got good 28mm tires, I'll be fine." Went out this morning and ate it on a sharp, slick turn. So listen to these tips and my shattered wrist: ride safe and corner slow on wet roads.

  14. Continental Grand Prix 4000 tires are amazing. I am not suprised ya have these on your bike. They give me the best overall tire endurance to efficiency ratio in my opinion…. they are awesome race tires, they dont get punctures so they are good training tires, and I feel like I can actually corner harder and more confident on these tires or it could just be imagination. Only downside is that they are expensive and I am due for new ones after years of racing and training on these 🙁

  15. I had a crash similar to Esteban Chavez at the Giro dell'Emilia (though not going as fast) while cornering in the wet last Thursday (28 Sept). It started to rain near the end of my ride, and my tires were pumped up for dry conditions… anyhow, I was lucky, nothing serious other than the usual road rash. My helmet saved me.

  16. Got caught in a rainstorm, complete with hailstones. Slowed my pace and crawled thru the corners. In the rain, like in a car, careful is always best. 👍🏽

  17. You need to make sure your weight distribution and positioning on the bike are spot on, especially by placing your weight on the outer pedal in corners.  I see so many riders riding a road bike like a Moto GP rider, putting their weight over the inside pedal, which is bad form, and you'll eventually have a spill.  Also brake balance needs to be more 50/50 (70 front, 30 rear in the dry), letting the back brake take up a bit more of the stopping force, easier to correct the back wheel stepping out than the front tucking under.  And do as much of the braking as possible whilst the bike is vertical and you are traveling in a straight line, carrying you brakes into a corner is a bad thing.  Remember, slow in, fast out of corners, looking where you want the bike to go, not 6 foot in front of where you are.

  18. Crossing the more sketchy bits (metal grates, silt infused puddles, dreaded cobbles, etc)- be more mindful of pushing down on the cranks. It puts greater sideways torque onto the bike making it more likely for the bike to slip out from under you. If coasting through isn't feasible, pulling the cranks reduces the side torque while still providing power to keep moving.

  19. #askgcn It is not obvious (for me at least) whether or not fenders deteriorate rim brakes efficiency (as the part of the mud and water they "collect" returns and sprays the rim back). What is your opinion/experience?

  20. @GlobalCyclingNetwork Simon seems to be using rim brakes on a carbon wheel with a carbon brake track in the wet. I have long thought this was not a good idea because the water makes mud and sand-like grit stick to your wheels, and when you apply the brakes, you stand to damage the rim surface. Also, braking on carbon in the wet offers far less traction than braking on aluminum. I'd love to see a video with thoughts on this and comparing various brake pad and rim combinations.

  21. Leg that your turning toward up, and obviously the other down, and with a little more pressure than the up one.

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