Living Jackson

Benefits of cycling

Tricks To Building Dirt Bike Wheels!

What’s up YouTube fam got something really cool to share with you guys today. So make sure you stay tuned for the entire video So in the previous video, we went ahead powder-coated these rims and hubs from the XR 80 This is my girlfriend’s bike And today I’m gonna take you step-by-step on how I’m gonna go about lacing up the wheels for it and if you guys Didn’t see the video I did on powder coating these wheels. It is definitely worth the watch It’ll bring you through step by step on how to do the exact same thing at home in your own garage I’ll link that video right up here in the corner of the screen I know a lot of you guys are gonna be asking about the CFT 50 build So here’s what’s up waiting on a couple parts coming from overseas hint-hint carbon fiber and I ran into a few hurdles that’s more like time consuming stuff, but I’m gonna do a bill I’m gonna do it right obviously I want to see it done as soon as possible. Just like you guys but I’m pouring my heart and soul in this thing and I think in the end it’ll show So just trying to be patient with it, but what’s nice is when I’m waiting on parts for this bike I can still work on the XR 80 and pump out some good content for you guys There’s a lot of cool things I want to do this bike and in the end I think Kaylee will be pretty pumped with it before we lace up these wheels I’ll need to pop in some fresh bearings and the hubs and Get the brake panels back together and ready to go. Now. As far as bearings go. I’ll be using this all ball set I snagged from Rocky Mountain you can see they’re a little bit frosty I’ve had me in the freezer for a bit Now before you pop in any bearings you want to have them in the freezer for at least overnight? That’ll make installation that much easier so what happens is the cold actually shrinks the metal or shrinks the bearing a little bit and Then you can even apply a little bit of heat to The bearing race and the bearing most of the times will literally just drop right into place So the first thing I’m gonna do is find a socket that fits The Hub pretty snug that one will do not quite as tight as I would have hoped So you want to find a socket that hits on the outer race of the bearing here if you push on the inner race That’ll damage the bearing. I’m gonna bring this hub over to the press here. The press I’m using is a 12-ton Hydraulic one from Harbor Freight and I’ll be using some wood on the bottom to protect the powder coating here Looks like we got the right bearing there. So I’m gonna give the hub just a little bit of heat here and See if this bearing drops in if not, we’ll have to use the press And you got to work pretty fast before the hub cools off and the bearing warms up get the single centered up Give it a little bit of pressure here sweet. It’s going in good looks like it’s all the way down Cool that one went in pretty good got the brake side bearing in and One thing you do not want to forget is the spacer that goes in between the bearings? I’ve accidentally had both bearings in there without the spacer And that’s one of the many times have been pissed off working under a bike It’s a bad day when that happens and just because I’m super curious. I want to pull one of the seals off of This other bearing and see how much grease is inside. I’m gonna lift that thing up We’ve got some grease in there so that’s a good sign looks like it’s packed pretty much full I Don’t know if I would do much more grease than that I would say they did a pretty good job from the factory greasing this bearing It’s gonna pop the seal back on and while this thing is still cold We should probably press it in the hub now on this one I’m just gonna heat up the hub really quickly Not talk as much and see if that bearing drops right in so let’s give it a shot. Oh And with the powder coating, you know, you don’t want to get it too hot because you could damage the coating there Yeah, we’re gonna press miscarrying in as well no big deal And honestly, if you don’t have a press you can get away with using just a socket and a hammer as well Just make sure you’re on a wood table. So as you’re pounding it in make sure the bearings going in straight it’s even from side to side and Then there’s basically whack on it until you notice a difference in the sound and the feel as well and that indicates you’re at the bottom of the seat for the bearing So I’ve got both bearings in I’ve got the seal here just gonna put a little bit of grease on the lip of it To help with installing it into the hub And a lot of times you can just press these in with your fingers They’re not in there overly tight and I usually just press it in until it’s flush with The surface of the hub here so rear hub is done. Let’s do the front now for the front I’m gonna show you how you can do it without a press cuz I’m guessing most of you guys don’t have a press at home Having a press is just more practical but pounding them in with a hammer works good to torch the hub Drop the bearing in Get the socket lined up You might want to lay down a rag here to protect that powder coating Just pull up the socket from time to time and check make sure that thing is going in straight So you can hear the sound of it right now that tone of the hit and once that tone changes you’re at the bottom of the hub So right there you can hear it sounds a little bit different flip it over get spacer in there give it a little heat oh Great my torch is out of propane. We are gonna have to do this without heat Pop in a fresh seal and we’ll be done Sweet now we can move on to building the brake panels now, we’ve got a pile of parts here Let’s see if we can get it back together. The old shoes still got some good life left so I’m gonna give them a sand and reuse them and I gave everything a nice clean up a little earlier. So it’s all fresh and ready to go together So first things first, I’m gonna have to pop in this little seal that seals the inner part of the panel It’s gonna dab a little bit of grease in there to help things out and this seal should just pop right in Shouldn’t be oppressive in or anything And then we’ve got the brake shaft you want to get as much grease on there as possible and this goes through the back side and Then next up we have this little plate that goes on shaft and the arrow faces outward and on the splines on the plate You’ll notice there’s a little notch in it and that notch will line up with the notch on the shaft So you’ll notice on the top of the shaft there on the splines. There’s a notch So we’re gonna line those up Just like that now the shaft can go two different ways here basically we need This to be lined up with the pin on the other side It can’t be cocked to the side like that and you want to have it with the arrow closest to the indicator on the panel So I’m sure a lot of you are wondering what the arrow on the plate and the marking on the panel are for So basically that indicates brake shoe wear When you pull the lever if those two line up like that that indicates your brake shoes are too worn there’s not enough material left on them and You’ll need to replace them So just a nice little feature that honda added that I don’t think a lot of people realize and now to the other side here I’m gonna put together the brake shoes So the brake shoes are the same from front and back and the same for the left and right on either panel It’s gonna take a set of Springs here hook it to one side Goes underneath like that. This one goes over top And hold it in place, make sure Your pads are lining up like the Halfmoon there get the bottom in there There we go and then to get them on the panel, I’m just gonna pull them apart Obviously, I’m gonna get the shoes on the shaft first And then pull them over a half moon to get one side on Give it a little tug and There we go. Now the next step should be to put the brake arm on the shaft, but honestly I think these brake arms are a little too corroded for my liking I mean, I spent all this time making the hubs and rims look good. So I’m gonna sandblast these real quick and Seracote in black and while I’m Sara coating these parts, I might as well add some more to the batch Don’t mind all this crap down here. Those are just random bolts how to find some bolts for this bike but See what else we could seracote while we’re at it. I think the Axle spacers could look pretty good in black and there was one more thing here I’m not liking the look of that sprocket kind of off-putting to the rest of the bike So I’m gonna grind this thing down and coat that black as well Might as well add a few more parts of the batch while we’re at it and since these parts are all pretty small I’m gonna sandblast them here in the blast cabinet And for the sprocket since it’s a little bit bigger I’m gonna prep it using the rough scotch brite wheel over here. That should rip all of that plating off pretty quickly So I’ve got everything blasted and prepped for seracote and I’m gonna run you through the process real quick of how this goes I’m gonna drop these parts in this bucket of acetone let them soak for about thirty minutes kind of kill off any oil or grease that may be on them and Then got to run them through the oven at 400 degrees kind of just the gassim burn off again any remaining oil or dirt? Then it’s time to spray. I’ll be using this Graphite black and I’ll be spraying them out with this mini HVLP gun. I’ll drop a link down below to where about this stuff So now the parts are all done with the prep process soaked in acetone Ran them through the oven for about 45 minutes and now they’re ready to spray and one of the coolest things about Seracote is you don’t have to mask anything off even splines or threads? Just a really thin coating that holds up really well, too You could even go ahead and start sara coating like spokes and nipples I’m not going to go that far with this bike, but just an idea for you guys So I’m gonna get this Eriko ready to go and we can start spraying Now that I’ve got everything sprayed out gonna let this stuff sit for about 15 minutes to dry Then I’m gonna pop it in the oven for the curing process, which is an hour long at 300 degrees Pretty pumped on how these parts came out. I love the seracote stuff. So now we can finish up putting the brake panels together so the brake arm just goes right onto the splines here, but there is a locating dot on the arm and On the shaft so you want to line those up? And it’s super nice that the seracote is such a thin coating that it doesn’t affect the fitment on the splines. They’re Just slides right on gotta put a little Loctite on the bolt that holds the arm onto the shaft Once that song we’re all finished up in the front panel Let’s go ahead and test it out make sure everything’s working smoothly. Oh, yeah, that’s buttery Gonna have some smooth working breaks on this bike front panels done. Let’s bust out the rear Dude that black and red is gonna go perfectly with the rims and hubs Can’t wait to get these all together now if the brake panel is done It’s time to start lacing up the wheels now, obviously I don’t want to pair some crusty looking spokes with a freshly powder-coated rim and hub so I’m gonna have to polish these things up Now a lot of people recommend replacing spokes But honestly if they’re not bent up or severely rusted on the threads or just in bad shape overall You can definitely reuse them. Now. This bike will not really be getting that much abuse but if you have a bike that’s being ridden hard day in a day out then I would definitely Go the safer route and replace the spokes So what I’m going to be using here to polish up the spokes is this mothers mag and aluminum polish Then I’m just gonna apply the Polish just a paper towel and get to work. This is gonna take some serious elbow grease So another option we have for polishing the spokes is to use this buffing wheel over here on the buffing machine and we’re using a White Rouge compound as well. So you can achieve a better result using this wheel. It’s a little more time-consuming But this is the route. I’m gonna go now. Why do you were probably wondering? Why would you spend the time to polish spokes? Well dudes, if I’m gonna do a project I’m gonna spend the time and do it, right I know it’s pretty time-consuming, but it’s kind of an OCD thing for me It’s insane the difference polishing the spokes made those things are really gonna pop on the bike Definitely worth the extra 45 minutes. So we’re gonna start by lacing up the front wheel first I like to work on a towel. These coatings are pretty fresh and they may not be hardened up yet so on this particular wheel The lettering on the rim is gonna be facing up With the brake side of the hub facing down and that’s why it’s important to take pictures before you take things apart That way you have something to refer to now on these wheels because they use an angled spoke Meaning they have an angled head on them instead of a straight pull spoke We’re gonna have to put all the spokes in before we start lining up with the holes on the rim So typically what I would do on a full-sized bike that uses a straight pull spoke Has like a straight head on it You can do half the hub or half of the spokes and then flip it over and do the other half But it’s a little trickier on this one. So the longer spokes are the right side spokes So I’m gonna get all of these ones in this side of the hub and then flip over the hub and do the shorter side Okay, so now this is where those pictures you should have taken earlier are gonna come in handy for Finding the pattern and the spokes on this particular wheel the inside spokes. This is an inside one here you can see it’s at a lower hole that’s gonna face this way and Then the outside spokes or the top spokes are gonna go this way So I’m just gonna weave these kind of into their pattern Whoops wrong way with that one kind of get them into place And then once I put the rim on top of it We’ll be able to see pretty easily which spokes go to which holes on the rim So now you can kind of see the pattern going on with this side of the wheel the upper spokes or the top spokes lay on top of the bottom spokes and We have a series of crosses here gonna put the rim over top of it Kind of disregard the spokes on the other side for right now and we can start to see where these spokes are gonna line up So that one? goes there Oh and one thing I forgot to mention earlier is if you push in the heads of the spokes here that kind of Just pushes a spoke into where it’s supposed to be so that kind of helps with alignment – yeah And it’s at this point where you can start threading nipples onto the spokes I would just go a couple threads down underneath the spoke and actually before you do that You’re gonna want to put some anti-seize lubricant on those threads. This is a really important step This will keep your wheels in tip-top shape for many years to come. I’ll link this product down below So it really doesn’t take a whole lot of lubricant to make a difference. You’ll just want to put a light dab on each spoke here So once you have a pattern going everything to start to line up naturally you’ll notice the holes on the rim Just line up perfectly with a spoke So yeah from here on out. It’s pretty easy to get everything to line up Just like the other side the outside or the top spoke is gonna go to the left and The bottom spokes are gonna go to the right and I would recommend getting the bobbin spokes in first before lining up the top spokes Since the bottom spokes will go below The upper spokes, they’re gonna cross like that and you got to make sure the upper spoke is on top Everything lined up really good and so the next step is gonna be to tighten down the spokes evenly to make our job of truing as easy as possible So I’m gonna tighten down each spoke nipple until there’s just a couple threads Left on each spoke and the process I’m going to use for tightening the spokes evenly is I’m gonna find the hole in the rim here that is for the the tube and We’ll start at this spoke here next to it Tighten it down till there was a couple threads left and then I’m going to skip two spokes Tighten this one down till there’s a couple threads left follow that same pattern all the way around the rim Come back to here and then start on this one. And so basically you’re gonna do that Same pattern three times around the rim at that point You will have hit every single spoke and that tightens it down evilly and that will make our job of truing pretty easy, honestly All right, I’ve got all the spokes tightened evenly and this wheel is rated at true But I was getting a little bit worried here It looked like I was messing up the powder coat on the rim But that’s actually just the the anti-seize tell you what that stuff is pretty nasty You definitely want to wear gloves when you using it So front wheels ready to go now the process for the rear wheel is gonna be exactly the same So let’s get this thing laced up. I’m already getting amped to get these things on the bike. These things are looking trick Oh and one last thing I would recommend doing before lease in the wheel is checking the wear marks on the hub So you won’t look for the little wear spot from the spoke previously So that indicates that there was an outer spoke here and an inner spoke there so not a big deal But I would recommend getting the spokes in the same holes as they were previously And you can check for the same wear spots on the other side of the hub as well And once again the spoke with a longer head is the outer spoke So it goes that way and the ones with the shorter head go in this way Now I’ve got all the spokes in place and once again looking at the wear pattern on the hub you can see that the outer spokes face left or go to the left and The inner spokes go to the right. So same concept as the front wheel All right got the wheels all waist up we’re looking pretty sweet so in the next video I’ll be showing you guys step by step how to true these wheels up on a Truing stand as well as on the bike if you don’t have a trimming stand so keep your eyes out for that It’s gonna be a good one Thanks for watching the video guys and like always if you enjoyed it or learn something new Please share it and tell your buddies about it so they can enjoy it to you I’ll see you all in the next one. Take care do it. I gotta trim this beard up. It’s getting gnarly

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *