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Why Your Road Bikes Gears Are Skipping | GCN Tech Clinic

Why Your Road Bikes Gears Are Skipping | GCN Tech Clinic


(exciting music) – Welcome back to another episode of the GCN TECH Clinic, where I try and help and solve
your bike related problems with years worth of
knowledge that I’ve somehow managed to keep inside of my brain. Right, with no further
ado then, let’s crack on. Actually, no, first up, if you
got a bike related problem, leave it for me down there
in the comment section. Right, first question this
week comes in from Mark Hand. “Hi, Jon! Long time
lurker, first time poster.” I’m wondering where this is going. “I am an enthusiastic home mechanic “and have replaced and
maintained most components “on my bike at this stage. “I’ve got pretty much end-to-end “105 groupset apart from the cassette, “which came with the bike
and was a Tiagra one. “I’ve replaced it with an Ultegra model “with the same range of gearing. “I’ve set the high and low limit screws “and dialed in the indexing. “However, I can either get the low end “or the high end of the cassette indexed, “when moving to the other end, “I get that annoying chugging,” I reckon he means (makes chugging noise), something like that noise. “And some occasional jumping. “Any ideas, please?” Right, few things here. First up, probably
you’re using an old chain with a brand new cassette. Not ideal, so have a look at that. Also, maybe just maybe,
you’re rear derailleur hanger has become slightly out of alignment, and that’s enough just
to make a knock-on effect as you go up and down the cassette. So it’s all right for
the first few changes, and then it just becomes gradually worse, and then you fiddle around
to start the other end, and then, yep, it just gets
worse going back the other way. Either way, check out those two things. Failing that, maybe just maybe, it could well be your gear cables. So, a fresh set of gear cables, it’s amazing what that can do. It can rejuvenate the worst gear shifting into some of the best. So, check out those three things, and let me know how you get on. Next up is Ahmad. Ahmad comes from Malaysia and says, “What’s the best upgrade to my road bike “after I upgraded to clipless pedals? “Which one is best out of a wheel set, “handlebar, or heart
rate monitor by Garmin?” Right, Ahmed. Out of those, wheels, undoubtedly. They make the biggest
change to field performance on a bike, in my opinion. Pair them up with some good tires as well, and you are going to be laughing. You are going to be
dropping all your mates going up those climbs. And also, it’s probably a great way to save some weight off of the bike, too, and one of the best sort of
cost per gram, if you like, because it’s amazing just how many grams you can shed with a decent pair of wheels. For right now, we’ve got Gidi, who says, “My bike shop tried to true my wheels “and managed to crack the
alloy nipples in the process, “which they blamed for being corroded. “How do I fix these cracked nipples?” Oh dear, oh dear. Right, this isn’t that unusual with alloy spoke nipples. The reason being, they are under a quite a lot of tension there,
and they’re pretty soft too. And they do just tend to
corrode over many years. I’ve put up wheels in the
past with alloy nipples, and when I’ve come to
try and true them up, after a couple of seasons,
I’ve had that dreaded rounding off feel as I try to
loosen them or tighten them. The best thing to do there, unless you are building
up a super light bike, and well, you’ve got money to burn, put some brass nipples on that. Yep, they are going to weigh more, they’re not possibly
going to look as cool, but you are going to get the
gyroscopic effect if you like when you’re riding along. So once the wheels are up to speed, it’s going to have like
a fly wheel effect. So right, you’re going to keep on going. And importantly, they’re
not going to let you down. Those brass nipples,
I’ve got them on a pair of old training wheels,
and they are going strong after many, many years. All right, now we’ve got Spectrum. I do wonder where you all
get your usernames from. Either way, Spectrum, nice name. Zedex, surname? That’s not your first name, either. “I recently picked up
a new Zipp alloy stem “and it’s been making a clicking noise “when I’m riding out of the saddle. “It’s currently attached
to an alloy steerer tube “and alloy bars in that helps. “I’ve done some testing
and it’s the only stem “I’ve used that has this issue. “What could be causing this?” Right, Spectrum, firstly, make sure that you grease up those bolts, all the bolts on the stem, and they’re torqued up
to the correct amount. You could also try
putting on some anti-seize or copper paste, both
around the steerer tube where it meets onto the stem, and also the stem where it
matches onto the bars there, too. That’s probably going to help. Alternatively, what you could also look at is the top cap, so where it
goes on top of the actual stem, make sure that’s sitting
nice and flush too, maybe grease the underside of that, bit of copper paste to
it, stops any noises. And then also, your headset top cap cover. So, quite often there, carbon or alloy just covers up that upper bearing in the upper part of the head tube, and quite often they can just rub too. And also, your headset spacers. Make sure that there’s nothing in there which is causing a little
tick or click noise. I don’t like ticking or clicking. Just want to get that perfectly clear. Right, next up is Robaidh, who says, “I recently had a problem
with my alloy seat post “seizing in a carbon frame. “I’ve had it removed at the
expense of the seat post, “but want to avoid it happening again. “What product should I use
to prep a new seat post “to prevent it seizing in the future?” Right then, semi can of worms on this one. Personally, my own prevention
for this kind of thing is to put some anti-seize
or copper paste, again, second time that being mentioned today, inside of the seat tube. The reason being, when you’re bonding two components together, or
not bonding, but placing them, they can’t actually create a
galvanic corrosion or a bond, which I’ve already mentioned, because of an electrochemical
process which is happening. Because tiny little electrical charges are actually held, or can be conducted, through the materials, and then when an electrolyte becomes present, not the sort of thing
you drink from a bottle, but it kind of is, they actually create that permanent bond, or semi-permanent, that often
becomes really tight to break. There are certain materials
which they don’t do that. But, more often than not they do. Carbon does, in fact, create
or conduct electricity, as does the alloy, and that’s
what’s causing that problem. So use some copper paste
and it should prevent it, because it’s thick
enough and it doesn’t aid that conduction of the
electrochemical process. Right, next one is Harry McGuinness, who is obviously a
commuter because he said, “Commuters in the comments! “Ask GCN TECH Viewers.” Hashtag, cheeky. Right, “What do you use as a bag? “I’m currently using a backpack “but looking at an oversized saddlebag “with a seat post rack to keep it stable. “Anyone got any recommendations?” Lovely question, this one. And I’m going to answer it
even though I’m not a viewer. Well, I am a viewer, because
I watch all the videos. Right, okay, I use a rack on my own bike for going to and from work from a company called Tail Fin. It attaches onto the bike via the skewer of the through axle of the rear wheel. Because it’s extended,
and it’s got little clips, or kind of a cut-outs rather, that the rack itself, which
is made of carbon fiber, can slip on to, and then it
attaches to the seat post and you can put a big Panya
Bag, or even two on there. The great thing about this is, I can put everything in
there I need for a week, including a laptop and even my sandwiches. The reason I don’t like saddlebags, like the ones that come out quite long, is quite often they move around a lot, they don’t look that good, and importantly, I can’t fit
my laptop in there, myself. But if you can fit everything you need and it’s not going to
move around too much, maybe that is something for you. But personally, that’s
what I use for my own ride. Right, the final three questions
are all inner tube related. Little bit of rubber to finish us off. But, the third from last is
from Andrew Brown, who says, “When changing an inner
tube, is there any reason “to use a powder like
talcum powder to help “with installation, or
is it not necessary? “Thanks.” Right, it’s not 100% necessary. I tend to use it, though, because it helps inner tubes and tires work
a bit better together. It helps slip on to quite
tough rims sometimes that we encounter, and it’s almost just a force of habit, really,
to put it in there. But it isn’t always necessary. But, this is a little bit
of trivia for you here, let’s chuck a bit of trivia
in every now and then, sometimes when you let
the air out of your tire, you get a bit of talcum
powder to come out, or that sort of stuff. The reason being, when some inner tubes are being manufactured,
they sort of load it up, if you like, with just a
fraction of talcum powder, a very, very small amount, so
that when they’re folded up or rolled up and
compressed nice and tightly into those little boxes, that
whenever we get them out, we can’t get them back in quite as small, then basically the rubber
doesn’t stick to itself and in any way, sort of become
stuck together, if you like, because obviously the talcum
powder is preventing that. So, that means that when we pump them up, they just inflate nice and easily, there’s no popping or anything like that. Right then. Paul Cannon, penultimate one. “Hi, Jon. “I’m wondering what is
the purpose of the nut “that comes on the stem of inner tubes? “I always just throw them away.” Right, Paul. They can actually help
the valve stay in place when you’re using a hand pump, because when we start to use a hand pump and we’re getting stressed out with our little cyclist arms, we tend to wrestle around
a bit with the valve, and in turn, that can
start bending the valve. And I have actually seen a
valve get bent in the past, and in the worst case, on an
old inner tube, for instance, the valve can actually rip
out of the actual butyl of the rubber inner tube there, too. So, that’s one use for them. The other one is to stop a valve rattling, and I guess that’s probably it. I can’t think of any other reason for having a valve stem
nut on an inner tube. Anyone else, though, let me know the reasons why you keep them on there. I keep them on there on my winter bike, but on a race bike I don’t. Don’t know why. And the final one comes
in from Jeremy Kellogg. “Hi, Jon, I have a
really simple question.” Right, let’s hope it is. “Should inner tubes be replaced “when replacing worn out tires? “If the inner tubes had
been in service for a while, “do they lose any resiliency? “Or are they essentially
protected by the tire, “in which case they should be reused?” Jeremy, lovely question, and
it’s not that simple at all. I guess if an inner tube inside of a tire was stored somewhere with
a climatic conditions are either really, really
hot, or really, really cold, it could affect the actual
longevity of the inner tube, but in essence, I’d be tempted to follow the following saying: “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Right, I hope that’s been able to help solve that one, Jeremy, because it’s a really difficult one, and I can’t see why the inner tube itself would actually be perishing away if it’s covered up by a tire, but who knows, I’m not a rubber expert. Right, let me know, though, if
you’ve got a question for me, leave it down there in
the comments section. I’ll do my very best to help answer it in a future, up-and-coming episode. Remember to like and share this video with your friends, too. Don’t forget, check out the GCN Shop. Shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com. Whole heap of goodies
for you to check out. For two more cracking videos, of course, click just down here, and just up here.

99 comments on “Why Your Road Bikes Gears Are Skipping | GCN Tech Clinic

  1. We like to help here at GCN Tech so don't forget to leave your questions in the comments below using #AskGCNTech

  2. #AskGCNTech Dear Jon I'm in dire need of your help again. My headset started creaking, I've bought some new tapered headset bearings and installed them ASAP (the old ones were pretty worn) but the creaking continues. What are my options now? The bike is 2015 Specialized Crux.

  3. #AskGCNTech
    I want to buy a new road bike but good for the money, I work in a shop that sells Merida bikes (gills leaming bar) and I will get some money off it, should I get one of those or use a different company, I want to pay below £1000 but not get a cheep bike.

  4. #AskGCNTech
    I have a Giant TCR Advanced with full Tiagra ST-4700 rim break groupset. Few month ago i had a crash and my left STI lever is bent a bit though it seems to work fine, but it still bothers me in the inside. For some reason this lever is a 3 speed, though I have only 2 front chain rings making it not very comfy to use and hard to set up. (I don't know why did it came from the factory like this, I know it is wired.) As my chainring, casette and chain gets slowly worn out, I am thinking about changing by whole groupset to a 105 or to an Ultegra. I am also thinking about getting a new aero handlebar with internal cabling, as I'm not happy with the current one, as it is wider than I would prefer. My question would be: What is the easiest way and in what order to change all these components. My frame has internal cabling and I am afraid that once I pull out the actual cables I won't be able to fit the new ones back. Thanks.

  5. Hi Jon. Here's a question…
    I've made a bike light – 6W LED at the font 1W at the back. Cables between them, works well.
    Currently using twin flex – supply and return. What do you think about using the frame as the return so I only have one conductor to each light. It's only 1A at the front and 350mA at the back so I thought to use copper tape, suitably insulated, stuck where you can't see it on the fame so removing festoons of visible cable. Your thought sir…?

  6. In my experience, some valve nuts have a narrower diameter towards the top, a taper of sorts. If you flip it, it sits snug in a larger valve hole for Schräder or Dunlop valves. So the one time I needed a Dunlop valve but only had presta, I did this trick and made the valve sit quietly. I don’t know if the larger diameter hole has any other issues, or if the larger hole is going to affect the tube in some way, but it worked so well that it looked engineered.

  7. #AskGCNTech
    Hi Jon, love the show. I was thinking of going 1x on my road bike as I rarely use my inner chainring and have had problems with front derailleurs. Apart from a narrow wide chain ring is there anything else that I would need to ensure the chain would be secure, whilst preferably keeping my current rear mech. All the best Ben.

  8. Without a nut on the valve I find that attaching the pump can just push the valve into the tyre cavity (on new or dead flat tubes).

  9. Did I hear free bike for viewer?
    Anyway..just incase you read my comment..,
    I dont want flashy or showy bike, Pinarello Dogma F12 with Red eTap AXS would be just nice for me, hope its not too troublesome…I prefer not to stand out actually.
    May God bless you. Tq

  10. A couple of points on Inner tubes. I agree with Jon regarding the Inner Tubes, "if it isn't broken, don't fix it". The small screw that comes with inner tubes has a few additional purposes in my opinion. The weakest point on an Inner Tube is where the valve connects to the tube. The small screw protects the valve from weakening putting air in the tube over multiple times. Also, if the underside of the rim has a sharp edge the screw will also prevent excess movement and wear at the valve/tube connection. Some rims come with a rubber grommet inserted in the Valve Stem hole to protect the tube from cutting. I only snug up the screw onto the rim to prevent rubbing on the rim and over the course of your ride friction will increase the pressure inside of the tube. A good reason not to over inflate or to inflate to the recommended pressure.

  11. #AskGCNtech
    Hi Jon, great show! Is there a minimum tire clearance between tires and fork on a disc brake bike? I've recently upgrade my wheels and tires, going from 25 to 28mm tires. The 28mm front tire has 1.5-2mm gap all around. ( I actually had to pull off all the little new tire nubs as I could hear them hitting the fork 🤣).

  12. Truing ProTips: Use WD-40 on the spoke nipples at the rim and spoke entry point and let it 'soak' for a couple days to remove any dirt, grit and such. No more cracking, no more rounding.
    Don't true the wheel with the tyre on. You can, but the tyre will resist the new tensions upon truing.
    Use the frame/fork as your truing stand. Assuming the wheel is centred on the dropouts, measure the distance between each fork/stay where the rim passes, minus that measurement with the width of the rim and halve that number. Your answer determines the constant space between the rim and the fork/stay on each side. You can use a cable tie cut at that length as your truing marker.
    Use a highlighter or white-out marker to pinpoint the start and finish of a buckle, especially if it's very slight. Just put a dot at the beginning and end and wipe it off when it's done. It's easy to see a buckle when the wheel is rotating at speed, but not so much when it's rotating slowly, so this should save you trouble. Just ensure you mark the side the buckle is on so you know which spokes on which side need adjustment.

  13. Please review Triban RC 120 or 500 or 520. Please. MOST of the people want it to get reviewed by Your Highly Informative GCN team. Please🙏🏼🚴

  14. #AskGCNTech
    Hi Jon. I'm using Tiagra rear derailleur in my CX bike, but when I go offroads the chain flies everywhere on rough terrain, hitting frame, and sometimes skipping on the casette. I thought maybe changing derailleur for Deore with clutch mechanism would help. Does this make any sense, and whats more, will it work together? I'm using RS405 leavers if that matters.

  15. #AskGCNTech
    Firstly, good Video as always.
    I hope that I'm not sounding super dumb or nooby, but anyway.
    Now to my first question, I'm unsure where to grease with which sort of grease?
    My soon arriving aluminum frame uses a carbon fork. I'll use an Alloy Stem. Should I grease it with normal grease, copper compound antiseize or with carbon paste.
    Also as the bike comes with discs, how should I grease the thru axle/dropouts and the disc brake mounts?
    Second question.
    I want to wax the new chain, do I need special wax or is a normal wax good enough?

  16. I had a problem with my r7000 105 front mech where I kept having my chain drop. Turns out, if the derailleur is mounted SLIGHTLY too low (or too close to the large chainring), and your stopper screw is not set correctly, your chain will drop when the front mech misses its shift. It happens with brand new drive-trains, mostly.

  17. Hi Jon, my rear derailleur lever broke and my local bike shop isn't able to fix it. Do you know how I can get it repaired ? I thought of Shimano service centre but there are none near my city…

  18. Jon, I always put a little grease on my bars where the stem clamps them…..One other possibility for the clicking when you're are out of the saddle, is the dropouts on your fork. I'll clean them, add a little grease, and then clamp the QR the proper amount.

  19. Inner tube nut: these often have a Shrader hole sized part to them. With rims drilled for Shrader a Presta valve will be centered properly. This might not apply to most people here but some people have hybrid or mountain bikes.
    The gear shift problem: undoubtedly the cables, even if they worked before they can have a kink in them after a bit of work. Put new ones in and make sure the end caps are cut cleanly with the proper Park Tool or Shimano cutters, not your granddad's garden shears. Also make sure there is nothing silly like a bag restricting the cable movement.
    Saddlebags are no joke item. A Carradice Nelson Longflap saddlebag will hold a laptop with the weight close to your body which is where you want the centre of gravity to be – by your arse. You can't kick your laptop either if it is just behind you. Waterproofing with cotton duck is the best there is and women will compliment you on your choice of bag (really). It will also fit the equivalent of three bags of shopping if you extend it, plus the side pockets are perfect for tools/tube on one side and pastries on the other. What more could you want? Nothing beats the cool of the Carradice saddlebag, made in the UK and has been from the days before computers existed. From an aero point of view you can't beat one. Not sure why the world has ended up with wibbly wobbly panniers and silly saddle/seatpost mounted bags that act as a pendulum when the humble saddlebag has been around for aeons.

  20. Whenever I ride out of the saddle I hear some sound from near the chainset? What could it be and can I fix it? Showes it to a bike shop and they were like there's no noise. So I have to solve it myself.

  21. Hi John
    Love the shoe… but my ocd kicked in while watch your show and the tools behind you one in wrong placem.. ahhh going mad….

  22. wheels are something that have been on my mind recently and I go back and forth on as far as value for upgrading. I have a newish Allez and the stock wheelset is about 6lbs (tires included) and as an occasional road racer I wonder if it's holding me back in any way (I did one road race as a Cat 5 where I was doing 4w/kg and I still seemed sluggish compared to others). As far as I know weight itself isn't something that's going to result in any huge gains and aero may be helpful, I just don't know how much to go in to start seeing an appreciable difference from stock wheels. I'd love to know of any aero-ish wheelsets that could be considered a step up from stock box section wheels.

  23. Hi, Jon. Love the show. I'm riding a black Giant SCR 1. I wash my bike every 2-3 weeks after. When I wash the bike, the black frame shows some water stains but I can't seem to scrub them off. They are only visible when the frame is wet and under the sun. I always wipe the frame when i wash my bike with a cloth. Any solutions to my problem? Thank you😊 #askgcntech

  24. #AskGCNTech Hi Jon! My rear derailleur bends inwards when clamping on my rear wheel, meaning every time I take the wheel off I have to index my gears again. I have replaced the hangar and checked over the derailleur and all seems in good shape.
    Frame is a Cervelo S5 (2016)
    Wheels are Mavic Cosmic SL
    Derailleur is Dura Ace 9000
    Thanks and love your work!
    Toby

  25. #askgcntech Jon I was given a 2011 Cannondale Synapse 5Carbon. Bike is like new used about 2-3 times for about a total of 20-30 miles. its a 10speed Shimano 5700 which I'm upgrading to 11speed Shimano 105 R7000 as well as the wheels and shortening the stem and added aero carbon handlebars. Any suggestion on order of redoing the upgrades and most common mistakes to avoid? First time bike build.

  26. One question no one seems to want to answer, and can't find any info on. I bought a bicycle that has nut mounted wheels. I've seen some people upgrading such wheels to quick release. Could I just buy new, better wheels that already have quick release in them and use those instead? Thanks for the answer! #AskGCNTech

  27. #askgcntech
    I have a vintage bike with a shimano 105 golden arrow grouset. The frame is way to large for me and I'm looking for a new one. But how do I find out what flavor bottom bracket I have. I currently have an Olmo frame with Benotto branded lugs. I'm really lost with this one.

  28. Do you recommend applying carbon paste in the head tube with carbon cups instead of grease on the bearings?

  29. #AskGCNTech I have a Trek Madone 9 with di2. The junctionbox is in the frame. I would like to have it in the bar endplug. Is it possible to have both in one system or should the one in the frame be removed?

  30. #AskGCNTech will that snazzy new SRAM flat topped chain work with my old Red 10 speed? Perfectly happy with the old groupset, it's been great, no desire to upgrade, it's just that the new chain looks awesome.

  31. So if i understand what your saying.. a lighter wheel makes you go faster, and so does a heavier wheel because of the 'gyropscoping' effect. That's great information..

  32. #AskGCNTech
    I’m about to buy a new chain and cassette to replace my chain I’ve been using for about 5 months but I was wandering if I should replace the jockeys in the derailleurs as well so that the new chain doesn’t wear out quicker?

  33. Hi Jon, just how much better are integrated drop bars compared to regular stem and bar combos in terms of aero gains for example? #AskGCNTech

  34. #AskGCNTech Hey Jon, I replaced my crank and my chain on my MTB a week ago, but now I hear ticking sounds every time I put a lot of power on my paddles. I can't locate the sound I think it's from my chain how can I fix this? I have already extended and shortened the chain to see if this could solve it. Thank you! Ps 10 speed slx shimano parts.

  35. Hey Jon, thanks for putting out such an informative and entertaining show. I have a Specialized S-Works FACT Carbon seatpost which is installed in a Cane Creek anodized aluminum seatpost shim which is in an aluminum frame. The seatpost has printed on it "Do not use grease" Should I just put grease between the shim and frame only or should I add grease to the seatpost as well? Or should I use some other sort of lubricant on the seatpost (carbon paste, copper paste, anti-seize, etc) to keep any galvanizing from happening between the seatpost and shim? Thanks for your invaluable help!

  36. Hi Jon, when I back-pedal my chain drops what is the reason for this and how could I fix it. #AskGCNTech

  37. I keep the valve stem nut on the tube the first time I inflate the tire. It keeps the valve up so it is easier to put the pump head over the valve.

  38. I HIGHLY recommend to use the manuals provided by Shimano. Go to their support website and download the "dealer manuals".
    They list what tools you need, the correct torque settings and show a best-practise method for installing every component.
    They also provide helpful pictures of how and how not to install the parts.

    I've build up my own bikes (except bottom brackets) from scratch and they work perfectly.

    If no matter what you do gear changes and selection is not working it might be a chain that is too long.
    Especially if you maxed out the spring tension on your rear derailleur it's most likely a long chain.

    Also quick note:
    Concerning brakes: Sram red might be lighter, but setup is a nightmare compared to Shimano, because the outer cable has to be cut to a certain lenghts.

    If you have a newer carbon race wheel and an older training wheel with a shallower rim, not only will you have to switch brake pads (aluminum and carbon), but also the outer cable to get it properly centered. This is ridiculous!

  39. I just overhauled my drivetrain after the skipping started to get more frequent. Basically chain and cassette were worn out. Classic shark fins on the cassette cogs

  40. I came here to watch your videos for tips cause I'm a beginner and I just got my licence from school this Tuesday!

  41. #askgcntech – I am trying to get the threaded BB with square thingies out of my old Trek 1000 (2004 or thereabout). However, it seems to be completely stuck. I have the right tool and have been trying to get the non-drive side moving counter clockwise pretty hard. But it won't move. I've slipped over the teeth with the tool twice now and do not want to ruin anything before it's out. Any tricks to get it moving?

    My plan is to replace the original (Shimano Sora and Bontrager) parts with second hand Ultegra (and some 105). I have bought a hollowtech Ultegra crank. Can I be sure that any threaded hollowtech Shimano crank will fit both the crank and the frame?

  42. Hi Jon, I do my indoor workouts in ERG mode and I'm in the same gear most of the time 52-17. Is it a bad idea to do so? And how can I tell the 17 cog in the rear needs to replaced? Thanks. #askgcntech

  43. Hi Jon, I’m live in a pretty flat place. My bike has a 52/39 crankset on it, and I ride usually time trials, should I look for a 55T chainring, and if so where can I find one?

  44. #AskGCNTech
    Hi Jon, excellent show as always. I have been having some indexing issues over the past few weeks. I normally index my gears on a stationary trainer in my apartment. However, after riding outside for a couple hours, my gearshifts become less than optimal and I have to tighten my rear derailleur cable by 1/4 to 1/2 turn to get things right. I live in Texas and it has been getting quite warm lately. Is it possible that the temperature difference between the inside of my apartment (~72F/ 22C) and the outside (over 90F/ 32C) is causing my derailleur cable to contract and expand causing my gear changes to be sloppy? BTW, my bike has the 105-5800 groupset.

  45. Hi Jon, will likely be buying a pair of new wheels on my road bike sooner or later. I am a bit of a heavier rider, and come up to the edge of most wheel weight limits (usually within 5 kg), but not over. Will this be an issue for the longevity of the wheel? #AskGCNTech

  46. I find the valve nut invaluable when inflating a new tube so there is something for the pump head to press against. Otherwise it just pushes the valve into the wheel. If you leave the nut in place, don’t tighten it too much or you could damage the tube in a place that can’t be patched.

  47. I have been using the same two inner tubes on my bike for more than two years at this point. I've been insanely lucky not having any punctures. I figure if they still hold air and they haven't punctured, I may as well keep using them.

  48. I use the nut on the valve stem to align the valve so that it points straight and not sideways then mount tire and release tension on the nut pump it up and snug it down a bit no rattles and when pumping it up again no broken valve stems.

  49. I have an old bike that I have been limping along on, and have been learning the basics of bike repair to keep it going. That said, I do not believe this bike is worth the investment of major new tool or component purchases. My major concern on the bike is its wobbly bottom bracket. At what point has a bottom bracket become damaged to the point where it is no longer prudent to continue using the bike?

  50. Hi Jon, I have an unusual question and problem. I am a true campy fan, But my bike that I have on my smart trainer has 105 on it.. I still use Zwift a lot since I work nights and hop the bike in the very early mornings. My problem is, shifting I keep want to shift with my thumps like when I am riding Campy, but my thumps are lost when riding the 105 groupo.. Need help. I am asking for my thumbs.. Thanks…

  51. After getting chain waxed, how do I know when it needs re-waxing or some other maintenance? What about issues if ride in the rain? #askgcntech

  52. #AskGCNtech Hi Jon. I'm looking to make some upgrades for my SCOTT Addict 10 (2019) with rimbrakes but what will you recommend to start with? I've been looking at Deda Super Zero alloy handlebars and also some new wheels to replace the stock Syncros RP 2.0. but can't navigate in the jungle of wheelssets. My tires are Schwalbe Durano.

    Great show and all the best to you and the whole crew from Denmark 🇩🇰

  53. The valve nut stops you accidentally pushing the valve into the rim when pushing a pump head onto the valve.

  54. Hi John! I have a ~1992 Giant CADEX 980C, one of the carbon/alloy hybrids where the carbon tubes are glued to the aluminum. A local bike shop owner warned me of these bikes because the have a tendency to just fall apart after a while. Should I be scared when riding and just use it on a bike trainer?
    Bonus question: The bike is fitted with Campagnolo Chorus 8-speed, how can I fit it on a modern direct drive bike trainer? The all seem to require at least a 9-speed group set. #AskGCNTech

  55. #AskGCNTech Hi, John! can i use an alloy handlebar with carbon stem and carbon fork? thanks! Also can i use carbon seatpost on an aluminium frame? thanks a lot my cycling guru!

  56. #AsGCNTech Hi Jon, I have a Cannondale CAAD8 (2015) which has the Shimano Sora 3500 groupset fitted (9spd). I've previously upgraded the wheels to Mavic Aksium and I am now looking to upgrade the full groupset to either 105 or Ultegra 11spd. Would either of these groupsets be a straight forward fit to my CAAD8? Thanks 👍

  57. I miss being able to get schrader valves with the threaded stem and nut, made it much easier when I was repairing my BMX.

  58. I’ve tuned my Di2 Ultegra gears using adjustment mode when in the small chain ring and the 5th gear down. When I’m on the small chain ring it is set perfectly on all gears on the rear cassette, but when I’m on the big ring there is noise on any gear before the 3 smallest ones. Do you have any suggestions?

  59. Timings:
    0:21 Road bike gears skipping
    1:44 Best bike upgrade after getting clipless pedals
    2:21 Fixing cracked wheel alloy nipples
    3:26 Fixing clicking noise of an alloy stem
    4:41 Preventing alloy seatpost seizing in a carbon frame
    5:58 Choosing a bag for communiting
    7:09 Applying inner tube powder
    8:21 Purpose of the valve stem nut on an inner tube
    9:13 Reusing inner tube after tire change

  60. A very random comment…but it’s cool to see a new angle of the mech room and I’m always surprised that John’s head doesn’t get bigger every week because of the knowledge he digs up

  61. #AskGCNTech Hi John, I was wondering how you would replace spokes on a rim. Not to long ago I was taking a turn on a decent too fast and I hit the guardrail and went over and down a little embankment on the mountain.

    Some spokes snapped and I don't know if I should buy new rims or replace the spokes? Also how do you know if your spokes are tightened too much when trueing a rim? (I don't have access to any fancy spoke tension meters if those exist)

    Separate question, sorry for the long comment, how would you go about buying an old bike where there's is little info on? Say a Soma competition road bike.

  62. You know you are too old when you LOL at "ZX" and EVERYBODY in the house look at you as a mad man!!

  63. #AskGCNTech – with a little pressure from the side I can rock (not just wheel flex) the top of my rim brake rear wheel in my frame. skewer is tight, bearings don't appear to have any play, preload is tightened and the axle seems to sit flush (and is tightened to specification) in the bearings, why is there still movement? (threads and axle are greased too). I have tried many a mechanic and no one has yet found a solution.

  64. #AskGCNTech Hello again GCN .. will a 9 speed Shimano STI work on a 9 speed Shimano MTB Rear derailleur? Specifically for a 11-40t cassette. Looking to convert my hybrid to a dropbar roadie. Thanks in advance. Great tips and problem solving answers to this show.

  65. Great show Jon. I had no idea that seizing can be an issue with alloy to carbon!

    I noticed you also slipped a couple of personal commuting comments in there, to hold off the allegations that you don't ride, lol.

  66. #AskGCNTech

    Hi Jon,

    A question about Bottom Brackets here… I have a carbon frame (Basso Astra) with the Shimano Ultegra Hollowtech 2 cranks. My bike currently has a press fit BB but I prefer the threaded version on my aluminium bikes. How can I install a threaded BB to a carbon frame that has no threads? Seen a few things online but I'm unsure (there's so many standards!).

    Thanks,

    Matt

  67. #AskGCNtech
    Hi Jon,

    The front derailleur braze-on bracket that is screwed into the seat tube via 3 rivnuts came loose during a ride last weekend, and on inspection, two of the rivnuts had popped free from the frame, meaning it was throwing the chain off the outside of the big chainring, and wouldn't go into the small ring at all.

    I'm playing it safe and taking it to a carbon fibre specialist as although it doesn't look like the rivnuts have damaged the frame as they popped out, the holes may have been enlarged. Speaking to a mechanic, he tells me it's not an unusual thing to happen with electronic shifting (this is eTap), but I'd never heard of it. Is there anything I can do from a users perspective to prevent it from happening again? If it does, is it a home-mechanic task or was I right to take it to a specialist?

  68. #askGCNtech Hi Jon, love the show. I am looking to change my gearing to make it easier on long climbs. Currently I have an 11-28t cassette, and 52/36t chainring. If I simply change chainrings to 50/34t, for example, will this suffice? I have sram red etap and I’m concerned my rear derailleur is a standard one that won’t accommodate a larger cassette. Trying to avoid purchasing long cage rear derailleur(££££). Appreciate any advice! Thanks, Billy

  69. #AskGCNTech Hi there! I have an old aluminium Merckx (early 2000s) with a Campa Veloce groupset, that I want to give a 2nd life as a café bike. The biggest issue with it is the front derailleur hanger which is cracked. The derailleur therefore can't shift the chain to the big ring anymore. Now I'm not sure if I should try and weld the hanger, saw it off and replace it with a derailleur clamp, or just convert the bike to a 1x, since I won't be using it to race around. Thanks for any ideas!

  70. #AskGCNTech

    Hi Jon,
    I have Ultegra Di2. My rear derailleur won’t move in one direction (towards 30T ring). I have tried the crash protect mode to reset it but that doesn’t work. I have put a new hanger on so I know that can’t be the issue. I can hear a clicking like the derailleur is trying to move but it doesn't do anything. Moving in the opposite direction (towards 11T ring) it works fine. Any ideas or is my derailleur ruined?
    Thanks in advance
    Steve

  71. #AskGCNTech question with regards to wheelsets, if I has my fears indexed perfectly, and swap wheelsets, and put the old cassette on the new wheelset, should I have to index them again? Also, quick release skewers, are they all interchangeable?

  72. #AskGCNTech Hey Team, looking at buying a Cannondale Systemsix – I've noted they come with 23c tyres as they are more aerodynamic plus plump up to 26c in width on the wider rim's. My question is; will these 23c tyres on the wider rime still ride the same in terms of comfort as a 26c on a semi-wide rim? surely the 26c tyre can hold more air so therefore be more comfortable then a stretched out 23c.

  73. #AskGCNTech
    I recently switched from 23-25mm tires on my 2015 Specialized Tarmac (with AXIS 2.0
    wheels) and have found that the tires have scored some <1mm grooves in the chainstays and some small scuffs on the brake bridge and top of the forks.
    Should I switch back to 23mm or upgrade the wheelset?

  74. Hi John. I recently upgraded my SRAM 22 Force mechanical groupset to the older 11 spd SRAM Red Etap (got a good deal on it). With the electronic groupset, what should I use to clean and lubricate the derailleurs? I assume spraying with WD-40 wiping clean and then spraying liberally with Boeshield as I did with the old groupset is not the best idea! #AskGCNTech

  75. Hi, Jon, I guess you don't happen to have a lot of women posting groupset questions. So here is me with a recurring annoying problem. I have a Campagnolo centaur entry-level groupset, recently rebuilt by Condor. New cables, indexing, all good however as soon as put 50-100km on a long day the front deraileur begins to make noise, chain is touching at one end or another. What's your advice?

  76. $1 says first guy issues with rubbing in front and slipping in back are sorted with front micro trim. Half click makes it all go away.

  77. Jon: Judy’s husband Richard here. I just passed 1100 miles on my Continental GP 5000 25mm. Absolutely love them but put 25mm Gatorskins on for training. I noticed when taking the 5000’s off, I had the rotation backwards. When putting them back on in the spring, should I keep the same wrong rotation, use the manufacturers recommendation, or does it not matter? Thank you.

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